please help immediately
#1
please help immediately
alright so i changed plugs and a battery in my 1992 3.0 5spd distributed, and now it seems like its missfireing like a son of a *****, i have like no power and its idles pretty rough, the plug wires are in the right order and i checkes over and over agian, and they are all on all the way, the plugs were from my old truck and had the exact same part number on the advanced auto site, please help asap, i have no idea what happened
#5
i made sure all the ceramic was good when i put them on and i was care full when i put them on i didn't hear any cranking and they all went in problem free, all the wires appeared to be in the boot right and i checked to make sure all the boots were on right, at first they were not then i pushed them in a different way and they went on right still running bad, my dad said he heard that when you change the battery in some ford trucks it messes the timing up but this is distributed, so i have no idea what is going on i did not even tutch the distributer except i too a boot off to see what condition the contacts were in on it and putit right back
#7
I've worked in parts for 25 years and since the +4's have come on the scene I haven't seen 1 customer happy with them. For laughs put the old ones back in the truck. If it runs take those back and get Motorcraft OE or Autolite or even NGK as long as they have a single electrode, not multiples.
The original plug options: Autolite AP104, Motorcraft AWSF-32P or SP-413 (depending on the parts store). You can upgrade, my favorites would be iridium. Iridium is the hardest metal in a plug, has the smallest (.04mm) tip which requires less voltage to fire and will give a better fire plume to ignite the cylinder stroke. The best part is if the engine is in good shape and you treat it good iridium's may last well over 100,000 miles.
Oh, I work at Advance and I wouldn't have even offered +4's to you as a customer. That's how much I believe in what I'm telling you.
The original plug options: Autolite AP104, Motorcraft AWSF-32P or SP-413 (depending on the parts store). You can upgrade, my favorites would be iridium. Iridium is the hardest metal in a plug, has the smallest (.04mm) tip which requires less voltage to fire and will give a better fire plume to ignite the cylinder stroke. The best part is if the engine is in good shape and you treat it good iridium's may last well over 100,000 miles.
Oh, I work at Advance and I wouldn't have even offered +4's to you as a customer. That's how much I believe in what I'm telling you.
#8
#11
your truck isn't going to magically have problems when you change plugs unless you messed something up in the process...maybe its not obvious but go over the plug wires again, make sure they're in the same order. Throw those overpriced, junk plugs in the garbage and run a standard autolite lol
Could be many other things. Cross threaded plug, maybe you bumped something else during the install (map sensor wires, spout connector, etc) or the plug wires are damaged
Could be many other things. Cross threaded plug, maybe you bumped something else during the install (map sensor wires, spout connector, etc) or the plug wires are damaged
#14
well new plugs and wires, nothing, plugs are autolight platinum, the wires are getting juice but is still missing, cyanders 3 and 5 which are also sequencial in the firing order, for laughs i put the origonal air intake on, still nothing, acutally worse, put the k&N cone back on and was better than the stock but still the same all plugs are on right, pushed until i heard them click on, the only wires that i confused my self with yesterday i tried switching which mad it worse, and cylander 5's plug wire i know i didn't mess up, since its the furthest one back and when i took the wire off it hung in a different place than the other twoi checked the gap on all the plugs when i put them in, .045 the vehicle reccomondation is .042 - .046 i am confused as hell right now, like i said before i replaced the battery yesterday and didn't do anything when i put it back in, my dad said in his 2.9 he had to do certan things whe he replaced the battery according to his owners manual which i don't have
#15
unless something else happened and you forgot about it... the plug wires gotta be messed up. i cant see anything happening that would cause misfires out of no where...you have the correct battery and plugs in...why dont you try changing out the wires? this way you're eliminating the problems one by one...
#16
#18
yeha the wires are brand new, and the plugs are ap104, i was told that the the 135 were on the passenger side and 246 were on the drivers side, but if thats teh case then 2 and 3 are misfieing, double checked all the gaps, and did one wire and plug at a time so i didn't mess up the order,
#19
#21
The PCM can be reset by disconnecting the negative battery cable and turning on the headlight switch for a few seconds, then reconnecting the cable. I don't see how this would help an ignition fault but it shouldn't hurt anything if you want to try it.
#22
alright it as the disrtibuter cap all along, i didn't think it would be the cap since it ran perfectly fine before hand, i guess you have to replace everything when you do plugs, can someone elaborate that for me? anyways idles high or low now, its at the mechanics today for the e-brake not working, so its their problem for the day. that cap was really bad i'll have to post a pic later i'm suprised it was running as well as it was before the plugs.
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