Parking brake 100% does not work. 91 ranger
#1
06-23-2018
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Tumwater
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Parking brake 100% does not work. 91 ranger
So new Ranger owner. This is a 3rd generation hand me down. It belonged to my wife’s late grandfather and then her dad and she is now in possession. The engine runs great it made it from CA to Wa in one trip last year. It does however need lots of love to ensure it says in the family for a few more generations. Saftey first, it’s a manual transmission and needs a parking brake. Currently it has no pull at all. If you push the pedal down it ratchets but Nowhere near enough. Not even enough to reset the pedal when the release is pulled. We bought the chiltons manual and that is been basically useless. It does not go into enough detail. I have watched so many YouTube videos but they are for much later models. Needing a point in the right direction. Looking for a photo of what a correct cable connection looks like or how to adjust the tension.
Last edited by Sgtwtf; 06-23-2018 at 03:56 PM. Reason: Spelling/grammar
#2
06-23-2018
One cable from brake pedal runs down the outside of drivers side frame rail and then connects to TWO rear brake cables, one for each wheel.
Toward the front of frame rail is where the brake pedals cable Sheath should be held, not shown in pictures
Under drivers seat area, a cable's sheath need to be held tight at both ends of a cable or there is no travel.
This applies to both rear brake cables as well
Yes, the cables themselves can stretch over time from USE, not just sitting there, lol, daily USE, stretched e-brake cable are few and far between, so it is possible just not likely
You can shorten the main cable(from pedal) by pulling it off, at the end seen in the picture, it just sides up and out and then installing a new end, you can buy them at parts stores.
Or you can use cable tightener, looks like this when installed: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data...325712_raw.jpg
But have to stress that there is something else wrong for the e-brake cables to be hanging down so low, so simply tightening the main cable won't fix it until you have looked at the whole system.
Check all SIX sheath holders
The cable with the threaded rod on the end looks way to tight, something looks wrong there.
Toward the front of frame rail is where the brake pedals cable Sheath should be held, not shown in pictures
Under drivers seat area, a cable's sheath need to be held tight at both ends of a cable or there is no travel.
This applies to both rear brake cables as well
Yes, the cables themselves can stretch over time from USE, not just sitting there, lol, daily USE, stretched e-brake cable are few and far between, so it is possible just not likely
You can shorten the main cable(from pedal) by pulling it off, at the end seen in the picture, it just sides up and out and then installing a new end, you can buy them at parts stores.
Or you can use cable tightener, looks like this when installed: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data...325712_raw.jpg
But have to stress that there is something else wrong for the e-brake cables to be hanging down so low, so simply tightening the main cable won't fix it until you have looked at the whole system.
Check all SIX sheath holders
The cable with the threaded rod on the end looks way to tight, something looks wrong there.
#3
06-23-2018
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Tumwater
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So The brake system works I want to be clear just the parking is the issue. I traced the cable from the front parking pedal under the drive side where it fits into a panel that takes it into a medal bracket that joins into the other bracket where it breaks off into the two rear wheels. All of this ties back to the drums correct? So if something is not right it will be in the drums?
Last edited by Sgtwtf; 06-23-2018 at 05:52 PM.
#4
06-23-2018
Pedal bracket(sheath)============(sheath)frame rail------(bare cable)------Equalizer(sheath x 2)===================(sheath x 2) back of each brake plate
Where the One cable connects to the Two cables is called the equalizer, the adjustable threaded rod and nut is so you can apply equal movement/pressure to each rear brake.
The sheaths are the important part, because without them the cable doesn't move at one end when you pull on the other end.
Ever work on bicycle or motorcycle hand brake?
e-brakes are EXACTLY the same thing, cable brakes, if one end of a sheath is off then NO BRAKES!!!!, lol.
Rear brake setup could have a problem but wouldn't account for looseness of main cable seen in your picture.
Watch is video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=er6_Ke5xLbY
I like her videos, and this is a newer system than yours but.......it does show the movement expected inside the brake drum when parking brake is applied, there isn't that much movement of the cable needed
Where the One cable connects to the Two cables is called the equalizer, the adjustable threaded rod and nut is so you can apply equal movement/pressure to each rear brake.
The sheaths are the important part, because without them the cable doesn't move at one end when you pull on the other end.
Ever work on bicycle or motorcycle hand brake?
e-brakes are EXACTLY the same thing, cable brakes, if one end of a sheath is off then NO BRAKES!!!!, lol.
Rear brake setup could have a problem but wouldn't account for looseness of main cable seen in your picture.
Watch is video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=er6_Ke5xLbY
I like her videos, and this is a newer system than yours but.......it does show the movement expected inside the brake drum when parking brake is applied, there isn't that much movement of the cable needed
Last edited by RonD; 06-23-2018 at 08:57 PM.
#6
06-24-2018
Thats the self-adjuster cable, also called Guide cable
Rear shoe looks to be worn down like it was dragging
Figure #22 here: http://arrc.ebscohost.com/ebsco_stat...S_OR_SHOES.htm
Matches Ranger drivers side rear brake setup
Passenger side will be reversed
Rear shoe looks to be worn down like it was dragging
Figure #22 here: http://arrc.ebscohost.com/ebsco_stat...S_OR_SHOES.htm
Matches Ranger drivers side rear brake setup
Passenger side will be reversed
#7
06-24-2018
RF's Exiled Elite
#8
06-25-2018
#9
06-30-2018
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Tumwater
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The plot thickens!! Brake kit arrived. New springs, shoes, adjuster and cylinders. Took off tire and old hardware. Cleaned the mf out of the back plate. Put on the new cylinder and tried to bleed it and ...nothing... went so far and to remove the bleeding nipple and still nothing so I have another issue further up the system. Snapped a lug trying to the the other tire off so I am done today.
Any my suggestions on where to start? I was thinking removing the rear line from the master cylinder and see if it work from there and try and work my way back. Or would it be better to start in the back and work forward?
Any my suggestions on where to start? I was thinking removing the rear line from the master cylinder and see if it work from there and try and work my way back. Or would it be better to start in the back and work forward?
#10
06-30-2018
Check other back wheel first, they share the one brake line that comes from Rear ABS valve
Then check ABS valve, then Master
I have had to replaced the rear brake line in most of my Rangers, it runs inside the frame rail(drivers side) and rusts out, usually between frame and gas tank where you can't get at it, lol.
I use a longer straight line, and cap one end to keep it clean then push it thru in the frame rail.
Then use the more expensive, bendable brake lines to connect both ends to the system
Then check ABS valve, then Master
I have had to replaced the rear brake line in most of my Rangers, it runs inside the frame rail(drivers side) and rusts out, usually between frame and gas tank where you can't get at it, lol.
I use a longer straight line, and cap one end to keep it clean then push it thru in the frame rail.
Then use the more expensive, bendable brake lines to connect both ends to the system
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