NEED IMEDIATE HELP: Ball Joints
#1
NEED IMEDIATE HELP: Ball Joints
I am working on doing my lower ball joints. I got the right side done and now I am working on the left side. I am trying to seperate the LCA and the steering knuckle. I cant seem to get the damn thing to spilt. I have been hammering on it with a pickle fork for an hour and it wont budge. I have been hammering from the outside for the most part. I tried from the inside for a bit but once again I saw now progress. Any suggestions?
PS: yes, the bolt on the bottom of the ball joint is off.
PS: yes, the bolt on the bottom of the ball joint is off.
#5
I have been slamming it with the sledge hammer for a while. It will take one or 2 hits and then pop the fork out and ussually onto my foot. I dont really want to use a torch because its now soaked in WD-40 and theres grease in the ball joint. I dont really want anything starting on fire....
#6
#7
Bottle jack??? If I understand what your trying to do, put a bottle jack under it and start "jacking" (ha no jokes) and knock the hell out of it from all directions. The force of the jack and hammer should break it loose. I think that is what I had to do with mine, if I understand your situation.
#9
There is a small separator tool you can find for like $15 (thats what I paid). Is goes around the ball joint and presses the stud of the BJ back through the knuckle/spindle.
It does so without ripping the boot, I used it to seperate my spindles when I did my spindle lift, and it saved my BJ boots from ripping like the fork will do.
Go get the tool if hammering isn't doing the job.
Here it is:
In action on a tie rod, but the BJ is the same concept:
It does so without ripping the boot, I used it to seperate my spindles when I did my spindle lift, and it saved my BJ boots from ripping like the fork will do.
Go get the tool if hammering isn't doing the job.
Here it is:
In action on a tie rod, but the BJ is the same concept:
#11
There is a small separator tool you can find for like $15 (thats what I paid). Is goes around the ball joint and presses the stud of the BJ back through the knuckle/spindle.
It does so without ripping the boot, I used it to seperate my spindles when I did my spindle lift, and it saved my BJ boots from ripping like the fork will do.
Go get the tool if hammering isn't doing the job.
Here it is:
In action on a tie rod, but the BJ is the same concept:
It does so without ripping the boot, I used it to seperate my spindles when I did my spindle lift, and it saved my BJ boots from ripping like the fork will do.
Go get the tool if hammering isn't doing the job.
Here it is:
In action on a tie rod, but the BJ is the same concept:
#13
I live in Canada and got it at a store called Princess Auto. From what I hear, you guys in the US have something called harbour freight? You know, anywhere that sells chinese junk. Try there.
Edit:
Hey, what do you know, I was right :)
$20
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99849
Edit:
Hey, what do you know, I was right :)
$20
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99849
Last edited by Crunchy; 01-06-2010 at 01:46 PM.
#14
#16
I always use a air hammer, with the3/4" flat tool pick a spot on the spindle around the ball joint and hammer it for 5-15 seconds and the vibration will pop it loose. Works on tie rod ends too. To do suspension work the three mandatory tools are a "BFH" air hammer to take it a part and a 1/2" impact to put everything back together. If you have a problem getting the ball-joint to go all the way into the control arm, Put your jack on the frame to use the weight of the vehicle to press the joint in. Use jack stand to brace the arm or ball joint depending on year and use the air hammer to vibrate it in to place
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