Need help identifying a hose
#1
Need help identifying a hose
Hi guys, so i just rebuilt the front end on my truck, control arms, ball joints, you name. In doing so i managed to knock a hose loose and it broke off due to rust and corrosion. Can someone help me identify it. I followed it so far back, looks like it goes towards the fuel tank. It goes down, then runs along top of the frame.
My truck is a 03 4.0 ranger.
Looks like it comes out of the bottom of something shaped like a horn its a roundy piece. Hard to get a pic of. Possible vacuum line for something?
Thanks guys!
My truck is a 03 4.0 ranger.
Looks like it comes out of the bottom of something shaped like a horn its a roundy piece. Hard to get a pic of. Possible vacuum line for something?
Thanks guys!
#2
Most likely EVAP system hose
EVAP = Evaprotive emissions system
It prevents gasoline fumes from escaping the gas tank while it sloshes around when driving
It is a "vacuum" hose but won't effect engine system because it has a Valve the computer controls
On start up the computer opens the valve a bit to apply negative air pressure(vacuum) to the EVAP canister behind the gas tank(in 2003)
There is an air pressure sensor on the gas tank, computer watches for this sensor to show lower air pressure as it opens the valve
It then close the valve to see if negative pressure holds
If not it will set an EVAP Code, "gross leak" in this case
If pressure holds then no code
When system is working that hose will "suck" gas fumes from the gas tank, thru the Charcoal canister, where they will go into the intake, via the valve and be burned just like the gas from the injectors
You can repair this hose with splices and new section of similar size hose, you don't need clamps just a snug fit, as this hose has negative pressure inside so tends to pull connections together not push them apart
As you will have noticed most vacuum hoses use/need no clamps for that same reason
EVAP = Evaprotive emissions system
It prevents gasoline fumes from escaping the gas tank while it sloshes around when driving
It is a "vacuum" hose but won't effect engine system because it has a Valve the computer controls
On start up the computer opens the valve a bit to apply negative air pressure(vacuum) to the EVAP canister behind the gas tank(in 2003)
There is an air pressure sensor on the gas tank, computer watches for this sensor to show lower air pressure as it opens the valve
It then close the valve to see if negative pressure holds
If not it will set an EVAP Code, "gross leak" in this case
If pressure holds then no code
When system is working that hose will "suck" gas fumes from the gas tank, thru the Charcoal canister, where they will go into the intake, via the valve and be burned just like the gas from the injectors
You can repair this hose with splices and new section of similar size hose, you don't need clamps just a snug fit, as this hose has negative pressure inside so tends to pull connections together not push them apart
As you will have noticed most vacuum hoses use/need no clamps for that same reason
#3
Most likely EVAP system hose
EVAP = Evaprotive emissions system
It prevents gasoline fumes from escaping the gas tank while it sloshes around when driving
It is a "vacuum" hose but won't effect engine system because it has a Valve the computer controls
On start up the computer opens the valve a bit to apply negative air pressure(vacuum) to the EVAP canister behind the gas tank(in 2003)
There is an air pressure sensor on the gas tank, computer watches for this sensor to show lower air pressure as it opens the valve
It then close the valve to see if negative pressure holds
If not it will set an EVAP Code, "gross leak" in this case
If pressure holds then no code
When system is working that hose will "suck" gas fumes from the gas tank, thru the Charcoal canister, where they will go into the intake, via the valve and be burned just like the gas from the injectors
You can repair this hose with splices and new section of similar size hose, you don't need clamps just a snug fit, as this hose has negative pressure inside so tends to pull connections together not push them apart
As you will have noticed most vacuum hoses use/need no clamps for that same reason
EVAP = Evaprotive emissions system
It prevents gasoline fumes from escaping the gas tank while it sloshes around when driving
It is a "vacuum" hose but won't effect engine system because it has a Valve the computer controls
On start up the computer opens the valve a bit to apply negative air pressure(vacuum) to the EVAP canister behind the gas tank(in 2003)
There is an air pressure sensor on the gas tank, computer watches for this sensor to show lower air pressure as it opens the valve
It then close the valve to see if negative pressure holds
If not it will set an EVAP Code, "gross leak" in this case
If pressure holds then no code
When system is working that hose will "suck" gas fumes from the gas tank, thru the Charcoal canister, where they will go into the intake, via the valve and be burned just like the gas from the injectors
You can repair this hose with splices and new section of similar size hose, you don't need clamps just a snug fit, as this hose has negative pressure inside so tends to pull connections together not push them apart
As you will have noticed most vacuum hoses use/need no clamps for that same reason
#4
Ford first used the A4LD back in 1985 and contrary to what some say it was a good transmission, it was the first light duty OD transmission, so many transmission shops had to go to school on these, and like most mechanics faced with "new technology" they blamed the technology for their lack of knowledge, lol
People often prefer carbs and distributors, because they KNOW this older tech, but fuel injection and distributorless is way less trouble, if you know the new tech
Ford added full solenoid control to the A4LD in 1995 and renamed it 4R55E, so same basic transmission with new Valve Body
Then in 2001 they added new software to the computer's control system to get a "faux" 2nd gear and renamed it 5R55E, so different computer, same transmission as 4R55E
So 1985 thru 2011 it was same transmission used in many Ford light duty vehicles, i.e. Rangers and Explorers
Ford wouldn't use a "bad transmission" design for 26 years, lol, no car maker would
So overall it is a good transmission.............................as far as automatics go
Automatics tend to work fine or it costs you $2,500 for rebuild, lol, not much middle ground, which is why most prefer manuals that will always need clutches but at a lower cost
People often prefer carbs and distributors, because they KNOW this older tech, but fuel injection and distributorless is way less trouble, if you know the new tech
Ford added full solenoid control to the A4LD in 1995 and renamed it 4R55E, so same basic transmission with new Valve Body
Then in 2001 they added new software to the computer's control system to get a "faux" 2nd gear and renamed it 5R55E, so different computer, same transmission as 4R55E
So 1985 thru 2011 it was same transmission used in many Ford light duty vehicles, i.e. Rangers and Explorers
Ford wouldn't use a "bad transmission" design for 26 years, lol, no car maker would
So overall it is a good transmission.............................as far as automatics go
Automatics tend to work fine or it costs you $2,500 for rebuild, lol, not much middle ground, which is why most prefer manuals that will always need clutches but at a lower cost
#5
Ford first used the A4LD back in 1985 and contrary to what some say it was a good transmission, it was the first light duty OD transmission, so many transmission shops had to go to school on these, and like most mechanics faced with "new technology" they blamed the technology for their lack of knowledge, lol
Ford added full solenoid control to the A4LD in 1995 and renamed it 4R55E, so same basic transmission with new Valve Body
Then in 2001 they added new software to the computer's control system to get a "faux" 2nd gear and renamed it 5R55E, so different computer, same transmission as 4R
So 1985 thru 2011 it was same transmission used in many Ford light duty vehicles, Ranger and Explorer
Ford wouldn't use a "bad transmission" design for 26 years, lol, no car maker would
So overall it is a good transmission.............................as far as automatics go
Automatics tend to work fine or it costs you $2,500 for rebuild, lol, not much middle ground, which is why most prefer manuals that will always need clutches but at a lower cost
Ford added full solenoid control to the A4LD in 1995 and renamed it 4R55E, so same basic transmission with new Valve Body
Then in 2001 they added new software to the computer's control system to get a "faux" 2nd gear and renamed it 5R55E, so different computer, same transmission as 4R
So 1985 thru 2011 it was same transmission used in many Ford light duty vehicles, Ranger and Explorer
Ford wouldn't use a "bad transmission" design for 26 years, lol, no car maker would
So overall it is a good transmission.............................as far as automatics go
Automatics tend to work fine or it costs you $2,500 for rebuild, lol, not much middle ground, which is why most prefer manuals that will always need clutches but at a lower cost
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