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Lockers.

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  #1  
Old 03-05-2008
tluafeD's Avatar
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Lockers.

Does anyone know where i can get a good pair or set of lockers. Also, can someone give me a breif explaination of the pros and cons of them?? thanks
 
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Old 03-05-2008
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You want to lock both the front and rear of your truck?

Pros?
- Both wheels spin all the time which equates to much more traction.

Cons?
- Can be a lot tougher on the drivetrain compenents if you drive it on the road a lot.

As for where to get a good set, you need to decide what you want. If this is going to still be a street driver, you either only want to lock the rear with a lunchbox locker (PowerTrax No Slip over at SummitRacing I've heard good things about), or go with Selectable lockers like ARB. Problem with those is they run about $800 just for parts. ANd if you go ARB gotta get a compressor too. OX makes a mechanical linked selectable now so that could be something to look into. Never really heard much about them though.

My suggestion... just figure out what you want the lockers for, then go from there. You may even want to look into something like a Limited Slip if you only off-road seldomly, however, that doesn't really help tons off-road.
 
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Old 03-05-2008
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well, i will probably drive it on road more than off. I am also interested in the expensive ones, mainly because this will be a major project for my truck. also, is there a way to turn off the lockers when im on road, then turn them back on for offroad all from the driver seat?
 
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Old 03-05-2008
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Originally Posted by tluafeD
well, i will probably drive it on road more than off. I am also interested in the expensive ones, mainly because this will be a major project for my truck. also, is there a way to turn off the lockers when im on road, then turn them back on for offroad all from the driver seat?
Yup, there are three kind of selectable lockers I know of. Air Lockers, Electronic Lockers, Cable Lockers.

AIR Locker - ARB
Electronic Locker - Eaton
Cable Locker - OX

There may be others too.
 
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Old 03-05-2008
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do you know which one is of "better quality" im willing to spend tons of money. over a period of time, then install it once i get everything
 
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Old 03-05-2008
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ARB or OX
either way i THINK you need a new axle, not 100% though and TV is calling my name haha

Aussie is a good one you can toss up front for ~250. there are no selectable lockers for our front axles.
 
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Old 03-05-2008
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Aussie ($250) up front is the only option. For $300 it's hard to beat the Lock-Right for the rear. You can be locked front and rear for $550 plus fluids. That is cheaper than one "good" tons of $$ unit and you get both axles locked instead of just one. They're all just as effective, but if you have the $$$ to throw around you can get a selectable one as mentioned. Lock-Right is selectable, not by the driver though (no torque while tunring it disengages or overrides itself).
 
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Old 03-05-2008
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Aussie up front. I love my selectable for the rear I'm sure I'd be just as happy with a lockright or no-slip back there instead.
 
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Old 03-05-2008
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I'm going with the lock-right because of the price, durability, and it's just as effective as any other properly working locker when on the trail.
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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i have a powertrax no-slip coming in the mail. that would be my suggestion. i read that the lock right is a rather rough and noisy locker so i opted to spend the extra $80 and get the no-slip. just my $.02. mine was $400 shipped
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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when lockers are active, do they cut down on power since they keep all 4 wheels in sync with each wheel doing its part....a little confusing, but try to understand.?
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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Power should be the same just distributed differently. With lockers you should have to use less power to get over rocks, through mud etc. because you have more traction to the ground. Less tire spin since both tires will be working; therefore, saving the tire life and less wear and tear overall on the truck since you shouldn't have to be as agressive. Then there are people like me who will just push their trucks further and further, break it, fix it better and the cycle continues until you can barely tell it was once a Ranger. I'm trying to slow the process since it's my DD for now.
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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i asked this same question.. and from what i was told and the searching i did..if you get an ARB air locker, you have to get a compressor and there are hoses tthat can leak..

The best selectable locker from what i have read is the eaton e-locker..
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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The OX locker in my opinion is the best as far as durability, reliability, and activation. It's a cable that engages and disengages the locker vs the e-locker wich is a switch w/electrical wires and stuff.

I haven't looked into OX lockers much but that is how I understand how they operate.
http://www.ox-usa.com/Products/Locke...9/Default.aspx
 
  #15  
Old 03-06-2008
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can those OX lockers be activated from inside the cab??? and do the wirings and cables get in the way....say, if i were to go over rocks or brush? i dont want them to hang up on anything.
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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Ya you bring a lever inside the cab like this:


but you'll have to swap in a Explorer 8.8 or a Level 2 8.8 to get the 31 spline axles for it to work.
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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Originally Posted by tluafeD
do the wirings and cables get in the way....say, if i were to go over rocks or brush? i dont want them to hang up on anything.
Your parking break cable runs under the truck and does it hang up on brush or rocks?
 
  #18  
Old 03-06-2008
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well, i dont have a damn clue when it comes to workin on my truck and/or MODing it. i havent owned a ranger very long. most likely, if i get the lockers, i would just have them installed by a pro. that way i dont screw something up.
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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Originally Posted by God,Country,FORD
i asked this same question.. and from what i was told and the searching i did..if you get an ARB air locker, you have to get a compressor and there are hoses tthat can leak..

The best selectable locker from what i have read is the eaton e-locker..
you just need one hose.. from the locker to a 5 or 7 gallon air tank in the bed. no electrical wires, switches, relays or fuses..

Originally Posted by outdoorsman
Then there are people like me who will just push their trucks further and further, break it, fix it better and the cycle continues until you can barely tell it was once a Ranger. I'm trying to slow the process since it's my DD for now.
heh...
 
  #20  
Old 03-06-2008
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Originally Posted by outdoorsman
Your parking break cable runs under the truck and does it hang up on brush or rocks?
actually, that could explain why it doesnt work... im not sure if it hangs up on anything. i gotta get my parking break fixed this weekend.
 
  #21  
Old 03-06-2008
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Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4
you just need one hose.. from the locker to a 5 or 7 gallon air tank in the bed. no electrical wires, switches, relays or fuses..



heh...
will that one 5-7 gallon air tank engage both lockers and disengage them all at once. im either getting lockers for both axles or im not getting them at all.
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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As long as your careful and keep the wiring/cables away from open spots you should be fine.
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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Originally Posted by tluafeD
will that one 5-7 gallon air tank engage both lockers and disengage them all at once. im either getting lockers for both axles or im not getting them at all.
Yeah it can handle both of them.
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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I was just saying that brush and stuff might brush against it but it's not going to rip it out. OX doesn't make cheap stuff so I would expect the locker to be pretty well designed. Lockers are built to be taken off-road and used hard(I know there are street cars/trucks but we're talking about off-road). The point of getting a locker is for better traction and better traction = more stress.
 
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Old 03-06-2008
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Originally Posted by tluafeD
will that one 5-7 gallon air tank engage both lockers and disengage them all at once. im either getting lockers for both axles or im not getting them at all.
you cant get a selectable locker in the front, so you only need to worry about one locker.. and you will have to get out and disconnect the hose from the tank to disengage it

Originally Posted by 04blackedge
Yeah it can handle both of them.
see above
 


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