How well equipped is this 02 Ranger? Just got it for free
#2
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RagingGinger (09-27-2021)
#3
Well equipped. https://www.ranger-forums.com/vindec...ZR45EX2TA08973
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AngryPossum (10-01-2021)
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the forum
Yes, it is an XLT supercab 4x4 with 4.0l SOHC engine, so pretty much top of the line
2002 Ranger brochure here: https://www.therangerstation.com/res...r_brochure.pdf
The 4.0l SOHC engine needs to have the 2 timing chain tensioners changed every 100k miles, not hard to do
If one fails engine needs to be pull out to repair it, so steep downside if you don't do it
Yes, it is an XLT supercab 4x4 with 4.0l SOHC engine, so pretty much top of the line
2002 Ranger brochure here: https://www.therangerstation.com/res...r_brochure.pdf
The 4.0l SOHC engine needs to have the 2 timing chain tensioners changed every 100k miles, not hard to do
If one fails engine needs to be pull out to repair it, so steep downside if you don't do it
Last edited by RonD; 09-29-2021 at 07:10 PM.
#6
The following 2 users liked this post by RagingGinger:
AngryPossum (10-01-2021),
DILLARD000 (10-01-2021)
#8
really isn't as bad as it looks. Clear coat is missing in some spots and the seat has a tear in it. The AC still works great as well as the power windows and locks. It has 177k miles
#9
#10
Well like I said, it was my grandfathers. He maintains all of his vehicles. He lived just right down the road from me so I know he'd been keeping it maintained.
#12
I inherited the 4x2 version of your truck from my great uncle, but mine only has 77,000 miles. I have had to replace a TON of stuff, even though he was a Ford mechanic and did regular maintenance until he couldn't, and then took it to a shop. I have all the receipts from every oil change, tire rotation, belts, etc. But things wear out over time and it all eventually adds up. Elderly people aren't the best at taking care of pending problems since they only go by whether the vehicle starts up and doesn't make weird noises. They don't crawl under the vehicle and inspect it periodically, nor do they grease the suspension or change the other fluids. As someone who has been in your shoes, I also recommend having the truck checked out for any hidden problems.
#13
I inherited the 4x2 version of your truck from my great uncle, but mine only has 77,000 miles. I have had to replace a TON of stuff, even though he was a Ford mechanic and did regular maintenance until he couldn't, and then took it to a shop. I have all the receipts from every oil change, tire rotation, belts, etc. But things wear out over time and it all eventually adds up. Elderly people aren't the best at taking care of pending problems since they only go by whether the vehicle starts up and doesn't make weird noises. They don't crawl under the vehicle and inspect it periodically, nor do they grease the suspension or change the other fluids. As someone who has been in your shoes, I also recommend having the truck checked out for any hidden problems.
This truck has had new plugs and wires, new radiator, thermostat and housing, intake gaskets, wheel bearings and the AC serviced. All within the last 2 years
#14
#15
Tires, brakes, ball joints, fluids, third brake light seal, fuel pressure dampener, fuel filter, fuel pump. Probably forgetting some stuff. It was one thing after another. Fix one thing, then a month later something else went wrong. Most of it was due to the truck being barely driven.
#16
Have 2001 SportTrac4WD here with near identical DriveTrain+Frame; FullBackSeat+UltraShortBed instead.
If no firm info that these were done on schedule, assume they were not & do sooner than later:
~ Left+Right OilPressurized TimingTensioners, MotorCraft parts only, every 100kMiles
~ Engine 5w30\0w30\0w20.FullSyn Oil+Filter, every 6Mths
~ Transmission MerconV ATF+Filter, every 33kMiles
~ New TransCooler Hoses+Clamps
~ TransferCase MerconLV Fluid, every 33kMiles; assume ControlModule &\or ShiftMotor will fail & need replacing
~ RearDiff 75w140.FullSyn AmsOilSevereGear\Equal + Modifier, every 33kMiles
~ FrontDiff 75w90.FullSyn AmsOilSevereGear\Equal, every 33kMiles
~ Aluminum ThermoStatHousing replacing junk Plastic ThermoStatHousing
~ New ThermoStat, optional 183f replacing 192f stock
~ New MetalHeaterPlugValve replacing PlasticHeaterBallValve
~ New 1.500"RadiatorHoses, optional StainlessFlex replacing RubberHoses
~ New 0.625+0.313"HeaterHoses, optional StainlessBarbedTee+StockHoses replacing PlasticTeeAssembly, optional delete of PCV CoolantLoop
~ New Pump+SerpBelt+BeltTensioner
~ New RadiatorFan+FanClutch
~ 3or4Row AllAluminum Radiator replacing 1or2Row PlasticTanked Radiator
~ New 16psi RadiatorCap
~ Coolant LtGrn\Yel WithOut 2EHA 50:50 Peak#pkpb53.10x\Equal, every 33kMiles
~ New Plugs+Wires+CoilPack
~ New OxygenSensors
~ New PCV Valve
~ Brake Pads+Discs+FluidFlush as needed; BrakeReservoir Suction+Fresh DOT4, every 6mths
~ Fresh AxleLube in FrontBearinHubs thru ABS Sensor holes, every Brake job
~ SteeringReservoir Suction+Fresh MerconV, every 6mths
~ New SwayLinks
~ New Shocks
~ New Battery+Terminals, every 4~6years
~ New InstrumentCluster & DashCenterPanel LampBulbs
~ Assume ShiftLever OverDrive Toggle Button+Cable will fail & need replacing
Besides the above few items, not much is needed!
A good looking truck, so get her in top shape, honoring your forefathers.
If no firm info that these were done on schedule, assume they were not & do sooner than later:
~ Left+Right OilPressurized TimingTensioners, MotorCraft parts only, every 100kMiles
~ Engine 5w30\0w30\0w20.FullSyn Oil+Filter, every 6Mths
~ Transmission MerconV ATF+Filter, every 33kMiles
~ New TransCooler Hoses+Clamps
~ TransferCase MerconLV Fluid, every 33kMiles; assume ControlModule &\or ShiftMotor will fail & need replacing
~ RearDiff 75w140.FullSyn AmsOilSevereGear\Equal + Modifier, every 33kMiles
~ FrontDiff 75w90.FullSyn AmsOilSevereGear\Equal, every 33kMiles
~ Aluminum ThermoStatHousing replacing junk Plastic ThermoStatHousing
~ New ThermoStat, optional 183f replacing 192f stock
~ New MetalHeaterPlugValve replacing PlasticHeaterBallValve
~ New 1.500"RadiatorHoses, optional StainlessFlex replacing RubberHoses
~ New 0.625+0.313"HeaterHoses, optional StainlessBarbedTee+StockHoses replacing PlasticTeeAssembly, optional delete of PCV CoolantLoop
~ New Pump+SerpBelt+BeltTensioner
~ New RadiatorFan+FanClutch
~ 3or4Row AllAluminum Radiator replacing 1or2Row PlasticTanked Radiator
~ New 16psi RadiatorCap
~ Coolant LtGrn\Yel WithOut 2EHA 50:50 Peak#pkpb53.10x\Equal, every 33kMiles
~ New Plugs+Wires+CoilPack
~ New OxygenSensors
~ New PCV Valve
~ Brake Pads+Discs+FluidFlush as needed; BrakeReservoir Suction+Fresh DOT4, every 6mths
~ Fresh AxleLube in FrontBearinHubs thru ABS Sensor holes, every Brake job
~ SteeringReservoir Suction+Fresh MerconV, every 6mths
~ New SwayLinks
~ New Shocks
~ New Battery+Terminals, every 4~6years
~ New InstrumentCluster & DashCenterPanel LampBulbs
~ Assume ShiftLever OverDrive Toggle Button+Cable will fail & need replacing
Besides the above few items, not much is needed!
A good looking truck, so get her in top shape, honoring your forefathers.
Last edited by DILLARD000; 10-02-2021 at 07:25 PM.
#17
I have a different opinion about spending money for now. Just run the truck and don't beat the crap out of it.
You can do all the basic stuff yourself.
Pull the front tires and look for broken and worn frontend parts. Check the brake rotors and pads.
Do the same for the back brakes, check the brake lines for leakage and heavy corrosion.
When you start the engine you might hear ticking, it's probably sticky hydraulic lifters, no worries for now. Use the correct oil!
If you hear excessive engine noise the timing chain cartridges might be broken a common problem with the 4.0L engine.
Take a flashlight and take a peek at the top of the thermostat housing for leaks. There are one or two temperature scensors that tend to leak coolant. While you are looking in that area try to look under the intake manifold for puddling coolant and rodent nesting material. If the truck sat for a while critters like to get under the intake manifold and nest.
In the cab remove the lower door trim molding so you can pull the floor matting up a little so you can reach under it and feel if it's wet. Under the floor matting is foam and if water has made its way in, it will hold water forever and cause the floor pan to rust. If you live in a dry area you probably don't have to worry about it as much.
There's a lot more stuff you can check but I'm figuring you'll get to it.
One more thing, if you're a young guy just starting out never get under the truck with one jack point. Always triple-fail points. Personally, if I have to raise my truck I'll use 4 to 6 - 2x8 lumber cut into 2' pieces under the tires (if you're not removing the tires) or good ramps, heavy jack stands under jack points and I keep the hydraulic jack under the frame.
You can do all the basic stuff yourself.
Pull the front tires and look for broken and worn frontend parts. Check the brake rotors and pads.
Do the same for the back brakes, check the brake lines for leakage and heavy corrosion.
When you start the engine you might hear ticking, it's probably sticky hydraulic lifters, no worries for now. Use the correct oil!
If you hear excessive engine noise the timing chain cartridges might be broken a common problem with the 4.0L engine.
Take a flashlight and take a peek at the top of the thermostat housing for leaks. There are one or two temperature scensors that tend to leak coolant. While you are looking in that area try to look under the intake manifold for puddling coolant and rodent nesting material. If the truck sat for a while critters like to get under the intake manifold and nest.
In the cab remove the lower door trim molding so you can pull the floor matting up a little so you can reach under it and feel if it's wet. Under the floor matting is foam and if water has made its way in, it will hold water forever and cause the floor pan to rust. If you live in a dry area you probably don't have to worry about it as much.
There's a lot more stuff you can check but I'm figuring you'll get to it.
One more thing, if you're a young guy just starting out never get under the truck with one jack point. Always triple-fail points. Personally, if I have to raise my truck I'll use 4 to 6 - 2x8 lumber cut into 2' pieces under the tires (if you're not removing the tires) or good ramps, heavy jack stands under jack points and I keep the hydraulic jack under the frame.
#18
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
It is hard to say what is the correct path for maintenance that should be or should have been performed.
If you know your Granddad, (GD) did the maintenance then you should be in decent shape, recheck the oil, smell it, if it smells burnt or gases, replace it.
When moving along... slowly, apply light brake pressure, listen, if you get noise like grinding or the squeaker have it checked out.
Sometimes the driveshafts get forgotten when doing the lube, when rolling along listen for a squeaking pattern which equates itself to the speed you are going, have it checked.
Don't beat it up right away, depending on your GD's driving habits the engine may have taken a set on his style his rpm range and if you try to push it right off the bat you can crack a ring or more.
If all the fluids are topped off, if the engine when running doesn't have any loud noises, then drive it, and see what is happening and at the sign of any noise that you don't know where it is coming from get it checked.
100K miles is a milestone for the engine, a lot of little things can go bad at this point, so listen to the engine, listen to the truck and it will tell you if it need attention.
Biggest thing... as I said, DON'T beat on it right out of the gate, baby it as the GD did and ease into higher rpms little by little and it should last you a while.
My '03 has 110K miles, it has had Oil changes every six months with a filter change with added oil at three months and I have used Synthetic Oil and Grease since it was at 24K miles. Take care of it and the Ranger will take care of you.
p.s. Having a Mechanic check out your vehicle isn't a bad idea... as suggested, but get an honest mechanic you can trust in !
If you know your Granddad, (GD) did the maintenance then you should be in decent shape, recheck the oil, smell it, if it smells burnt or gases, replace it.
When moving along... slowly, apply light brake pressure, listen, if you get noise like grinding or the squeaker have it checked out.
Sometimes the driveshafts get forgotten when doing the lube, when rolling along listen for a squeaking pattern which equates itself to the speed you are going, have it checked.
Don't beat it up right away, depending on your GD's driving habits the engine may have taken a set on his style his rpm range and if you try to push it right off the bat you can crack a ring or more.
If all the fluids are topped off, if the engine when running doesn't have any loud noises, then drive it, and see what is happening and at the sign of any noise that you don't know where it is coming from get it checked.
100K miles is a milestone for the engine, a lot of little things can go bad at this point, so listen to the engine, listen to the truck and it will tell you if it need attention.
Biggest thing... as I said, DON'T beat on it right out of the gate, baby it as the GD did and ease into higher rpms little by little and it should last you a while.
My '03 has 110K miles, it has had Oil changes every six months with a filter change with added oil at three months and I have used Synthetic Oil and Grease since it was at 24K miles. Take care of it and the Ranger will take care of you.
p.s. Having a Mechanic check out your vehicle isn't a bad idea... as suggested, but get an honest mechanic you can trust in !
Last edited by Scrambler82; 10-16-2021 at 12:39 PM.
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