Engine shake
#1
#2
You have a steady misfire
I would start with spark plugs
If you read the codes it might tell you which cylinder is misfiring the most
Also after sitting for a few days all the water in the gas tank will setting to the bottom of the gas tank so you get high % of water in the gasoline for the first few minutes of driving or running
All gasoline has water in it, if there is too much water its called "bad gas"
Water and gasoline don't mix/bond together, and water is heavier than gasoline, not much heavier, but the water will settle to the bottom of a gas tank if it sits long enough
Fuel pump suck gas from the bottom of the tank so.....................on start up you get a big gulp of water, this can foul a spark plug or two but they should come back to life, if not you get the steady misfire
Ethanol CAN bond with water, which is why it is used as a fuel line anti-freeze, since gas and water don't mix the water will freeze and ice crystals can block fuel flow in colder climates, just FYI
If you think you may have a water issue you can buy Octane Boost or HEET, both are ethanol based and get rid of the water in a fuel system without all the misfires.
Or fill up with a 10% ethanol fuel, most regular gas is 5 or 10% ethanol
I would start with spark plugs
If you read the codes it might tell you which cylinder is misfiring the most
Also after sitting for a few days all the water in the gas tank will setting to the bottom of the gas tank so you get high % of water in the gasoline for the first few minutes of driving or running
All gasoline has water in it, if there is too much water its called "bad gas"
Water and gasoline don't mix/bond together, and water is heavier than gasoline, not much heavier, but the water will settle to the bottom of a gas tank if it sits long enough
Fuel pump suck gas from the bottom of the tank so.....................on start up you get a big gulp of water, this can foul a spark plug or two but they should come back to life, if not you get the steady misfire
Ethanol CAN bond with water, which is why it is used as a fuel line anti-freeze, since gas and water don't mix the water will freeze and ice crystals can block fuel flow in colder climates, just FYI
If you think you may have a water issue you can buy Octane Boost or HEET, both are ethanol based and get rid of the water in a fuel system without all the misfires.
Or fill up with a 10% ethanol fuel, most regular gas is 5 or 10% ethanol
#3
You have a steady misfire
I would start with spark plugs
If you read the codes it might tell you which cylinder is misfiring the most
Also after sitting for a few days all the water in the gas tank will setting to the bottom of the gas tank so you get high % of water in the gasoline for the first few minutes of driving or running
All gasoline has water in it, if there is too much water its called "bad gas"
Water and gasoline don't mix/bond together, and water is heavier than gasoline, not much heavier, but the water will settle to the bottom of a gas tank if it sits long enough
Fuel pump suck gas from the bottom of the tank so.....................on start up you get a big gulp of water, this can foul a spark plug or two but they should come back to life, if not you get the steady misfire
Ethanol CAN bond with water, which is why it is used as a fuel line anti-freeze, since gas and water don't mix the water will freeze and ice crystals can block fuel flow in colder climates, just FYI
If you think you may have a water issue you can buy Octane Boost or HEET, both are ethanol based and get rid of the water in a fuel system without all the misfires.
Or fill up with a 10% ethanol fuel, most regular gas is 5 or 10% ethanol
I would start with spark plugs
If you read the codes it might tell you which cylinder is misfiring the most
Also after sitting for a few days all the water in the gas tank will setting to the bottom of the gas tank so you get high % of water in the gasoline for the first few minutes of driving or running
All gasoline has water in it, if there is too much water its called "bad gas"
Water and gasoline don't mix/bond together, and water is heavier than gasoline, not much heavier, but the water will settle to the bottom of a gas tank if it sits long enough
Fuel pump suck gas from the bottom of the tank so.....................on start up you get a big gulp of water, this can foul a spark plug or two but they should come back to life, if not you get the steady misfire
Ethanol CAN bond with water, which is why it is used as a fuel line anti-freeze, since gas and water don't mix the water will freeze and ice crystals can block fuel flow in colder climates, just FYI
If you think you may have a water issue you can buy Octane Boost or HEET, both are ethanol based and get rid of the water in a fuel system without all the misfires.
Or fill up with a 10% ethanol fuel, most regular gas is 5 or 10% ethanol
started it and kept it running for a bit
it shut itself off and now it won’t start up again, it just cranking
Replaced fuel filter (was about time anyway)
should I just start working on all the spark plugs?
Any thoughts?
Last edited by robdog9000; 10-21-2019 at 08:35 PM.
#4
Spray some gasoline or starting fluid in to the engine and see if it starts, called the 50/50 test
If it starts and then dies spark is OK, but no fuel from injectors
If it doesn't start THEN you can look at the spark system
The fuel pump runs for 2 seconds EACH TIME you turn the key on, its not quiet, you can hear it HUMMMM in the gas tank for those 2 seconds, turn the radio down, lol
Turn key on and off as much as needed, does not hurt anything
If you don't hear that HUMMMM then thats the problem
Since you have a 2002 Ranger you do have a PATS anti-theft system, so there should be a Theft light or "lock" light on the dash that comes on and goes OFF when you turn on the key, if that light ever flashes rapidly it means fuel system is disable by anti-theft system
If it starts and then dies spark is OK, but no fuel from injectors
If it doesn't start THEN you can look at the spark system
The fuel pump runs for 2 seconds EACH TIME you turn the key on, its not quiet, you can hear it HUMMMM in the gas tank for those 2 seconds, turn the radio down, lol
Turn key on and off as much as needed, does not hurt anything
If you don't hear that HUMMMM then thats the problem
Since you have a 2002 Ranger you do have a PATS anti-theft system, so there should be a Theft light or "lock" light on the dash that comes on and goes OFF when you turn on the key, if that light ever flashes rapidly it means fuel system is disable by anti-theft system
#5
Spray some gasoline or starting fluid in to the engine and see if it starts, called the 50/50 test
If it starts and then dies spark is OK, but no fuel from injectors
If it doesn't start THEN you can look at the spark system
The fuel pump runs for 2 seconds EACH TIME you turn the key on, its not quiet, you can hear it HUMMMM in the gas tank for those 2 seconds, turn the radio down, lol
Turn key on and off as much as needed, does not hurt anything
If you don't hear that HUMMMM then thats the problem
Since you have a 2002 Ranger you do have a PATS anti-theft system, so there should be a Theft light or "lock" light on the dash that comes on and goes OFF when you turn on the key, if that light ever flashes rapidly it means fuel system is disable by anti-theft system
If it starts and then dies spark is OK, but no fuel from injectors
If it doesn't start THEN you can look at the spark system
The fuel pump runs for 2 seconds EACH TIME you turn the key on, its not quiet, you can hear it HUMMMM in the gas tank for those 2 seconds, turn the radio down, lol
Turn key on and off as much as needed, does not hurt anything
If you don't hear that HUMMMM then thats the problem
Since you have a 2002 Ranger you do have a PATS anti-theft system, so there should be a Theft light or "lock" light on the dash that comes on and goes OFF when you turn on the key, if that light ever flashes rapidly it means fuel system is disable by anti-theft system
i got the starter fluid did a quick spritz right into the throttle body and had a friend tried turning it over
it sounded like it ran for a quick second but then died off and then the starter fluid backfired at me and caused a flame from the throttle body
tried a few more times and didn’t really sound like it was going to start up
so since it started quickly and died by what you say it’s must be a fuel issue?
What causes the steady misfire you’ve seen in the video?
also after I changed the fuel filter I turned the key over a few times and when under to undo a hose to see if the pressure builds back up, which it did
#6
If it fires, i.e. the back fire, then Spark is working at least somewhat
What about the Anti-theft light?
Does it come on with key on and then go off?
That means the bulb works
The 4.0l SOHC engine can get slipped timing of valve train, causing low compression so no start and limited "fire" with starting fluid
I would get a compression tester as the next step
Expected pressure would be above 160psi, test at least 1 cylinder on each side, but testing all 6 would give you better info
What about the Anti-theft light?
Does it come on with key on and then go off?
That means the bulb works
The 4.0l SOHC engine can get slipped timing of valve train, causing low compression so no start and limited "fire" with starting fluid
I would get a compression tester as the next step
Expected pressure would be above 160psi, test at least 1 cylinder on each side, but testing all 6 would give you better info
#7
If it fires, i.e. the back fire, then Spark is working at least somewhat
What about the Anti-theft light?
Does it come on with key on and then go off?
That means the bulb works
The 4.0l SOHC engine can get slipped timing of valve train, causing low compression so no start and limited "fire" with starting fluid
I would get a compression tester as the next step
Expected pressure would be above 160psi, test at least 1 cylinder on each side, but testing all 6 would give you better info
What about the Anti-theft light?
Does it come on with key on and then go off?
That means the bulb works
The 4.0l SOHC engine can get slipped timing of valve train, causing low compression so no start and limited "fire" with starting fluid
I would get a compression tester as the next step
Expected pressure would be above 160psi, test at least 1 cylinder on each side, but testing all 6 would give you better info
Took off the right hand and checked to see the 3 of them aren’t clogged and open fine
with starter fluid it’s runs just perfectly for the quick 3 seconds so it shouldn’t be slipped timing
#8
If you have fuel pressure at the engine, and engine starts when adding fuel manually(50/50 test)
Then try unplugging TPS(throttle position sensor)
If it still doesn't start then your computer(PCM) is bad, its not opening ANY injectors, so not an injector issue, they are not getting a signal to open
And this is assuming the anti-theft light is working an NOT flashing rapidly with key on
Then try unplugging TPS(throttle position sensor)
If it still doesn't start then your computer(PCM) is bad, its not opening ANY injectors, so not an injector issue, they are not getting a signal to open
And this is assuming the anti-theft light is working an NOT flashing rapidly with key on
#10
If you have fuel pressure at the engine, and engine starts when adding fuel manually(50/50 test)
Then try unplugging TPS(throttle position sensor)
If it still doesn't start then your computer(PCM) is bad, its not opening ANY injectors, so not an injector issue, they are not getting a signal to open
And this is assuming the anti-theft light is working an NOT flashing rapidly with key on
Then try unplugging TPS(throttle position sensor)
If it still doesn't start then your computer(PCM) is bad, its not opening ANY injectors, so not an injector issue, they are not getting a signal to open
And this is assuming the anti-theft light is working an NOT flashing rapidly with key on
i gave up and took it to a shop, they said the Fuel Pressure Regulator for the truck is bad,
they showed me the part which was about $575 on some website. I looked around and see that there’s many different type s and can’t figure out if they are trying to jip me on the part cost or not
I look on autozone and oreilly and see multiple different fuel pressure regulators that say they are good for my truck at $20-100 instead of $575 but I don’t know which one it good for the truck
#11
O'Reilly - $376.99 - https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...e+damper&pos=3
NAPA - $459.99 - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB212579
RockAuto - $185.79 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...re+damper,6120
Wheeler Fleet - $304.20 - https://www.wheelerfleet.com/amp/pro...inj-fuel/31419
Where you're finding them for $20 - $100 I have no idea
NAPA - $459.99 - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB212579
RockAuto - $185.79 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...re+damper,6120
Wheeler Fleet - $304.20 - https://www.wheelerfleet.com/amp/pro...inj-fuel/31419
Where you're finding them for $20 - $100 I have no idea
#13
#14
#15
In 2002 Ranger the FPR is in the gas tank its part of the fuel pump assemble, so nothing at all like a 1997 FPR
And yes you can pay $575 for a Motorcraft(Ford) fuel pump assembly
The FPR is not a separate part
You can buy 3rd party fuel pump assemblies for much less, but a shop probably wouldn't want to install them, UNLESS you signed a NO WARRANTY form
And yes you can pay $575 for a Motorcraft(Ford) fuel pump assembly
The FPR is not a separate part
You can buy 3rd party fuel pump assemblies for much less, but a shop probably wouldn't want to install them, UNLESS you signed a NO WARRANTY form
#16
O'Reilly - $376.99 - https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...e+damper&pos=3
NAPA - $459.99 - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB212579
RockAuto - $185.79 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...re+damper,6120
Wheeler Fleet - $304.20 - https://www.wheelerfleet.com/amp/pro...inj-fuel/31419
Where you're finding them for $20 - $100 I have no idea
NAPA - $459.99 - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB212579
RockAuto - $185.79 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...re+damper,6120
Wheeler Fleet - $304.20 - https://www.wheelerfleet.com/amp/pro...inj-fuel/31419
Where you're finding them for $20 - $100 I have no idea
#17
Pressure "Pulse" damper was used on 1998 and up Rangers when Ford changed to a Returnless fuel system, Damper is just a rubber diaphragm located at the end of the fuel rail, it prevents pressure waves, from injectors opening and closing, from building up inside the rail, the diaphragm absorbs waves so they are not reflected back into the rail
1997 and earlier Rangers had an FPR on the fuel rail, it is also a rubber diaphragm but with a valve, so it also acted as a Pressure Pulse damper, and a pressure regulator, both
1997 and earlier Rangers had an FPR on the fuel rail, it is also a rubber diaphragm but with a valve, so it also acted as a Pressure Pulse damper, and a pressure regulator, both
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