Electrical issue
#1
Electrical issue
So I went out to dead truck yesterday. But the charger on it, got it started, didn't think anything of it. Drove it around town and it started back up just fine. Then today it was dead again. Charged it, then took the charger off and put a meter on the battery, and the voltage was dropping super fast. Started pulling fuses while my wife held the leads on the battery, and found it stopped dropping when I pulled fuse 27 (10 amp) in the IP fuse box. Now this is for interior lights, so I started checking around if any were on and they weren't. I noticed a clicking coming from the glove box area when I would put the fuse back in, However the light is going off when they glove box is closed. Anyone know of a relay or anything that is in that fused circuit that could be bad before I start going through the wiring diagrams? Thanks! BTW its a 97 2.3 regular cab XLT.
#2
Fuse 27 should not have power after 20-30minutes of key off doors closed
Its powered by Battery Saver Relay, which is controlled by the GEM module timer
Problem with IP fuse box is door has to be open to do anything in it, and door open sucks down voltage
Also check under hood light
Test battery by disconnecting one cable and then test voltage, come back an hour later and test again, if its lower then battery is self draining
Unplug Fuse 8, 20amp, in the engine fuse box, that cuts power to Battery Saver relay, which cuts power to fuse 27 and most other lights, to test with door closed
Its powered by Battery Saver Relay, which is controlled by the GEM module timer
Problem with IP fuse box is door has to be open to do anything in it, and door open sucks down voltage
Also check under hood light
Test battery by disconnecting one cable and then test voltage, come back an hour later and test again, if its lower then battery is self draining
Unplug Fuse 8, 20amp, in the engine fuse box, that cuts power to Battery Saver relay, which cuts power to fuse 27 and most other lights, to test with door closed
#3
Fuse 27 should not have power after 20-30minutes of key off doors closed
Its powered by Battery Saver Relay, which is controlled by the GEM module timer
Problem with IP fuse box is door has to be open to do anything in it, and door open sucks down voltage
Also check under hood light
Test battery by disconnecting one cable and then test voltage, come back an hour later and test again, if its lower then battery is self draining
Unplug Fuse 8, 20amp, in the engine fuse box, that cuts power to Battery Saver relay, which cuts power to fuse 27 and most other lights, to test with door closed
Its powered by Battery Saver Relay, which is controlled by the GEM module timer
Problem with IP fuse box is door has to be open to do anything in it, and door open sucks down voltage
Also check under hood light
Test battery by disconnecting one cable and then test voltage, come back an hour later and test again, if its lower then battery is self draining
Unplug Fuse 8, 20amp, in the engine fuse box, that cuts power to Battery Saver relay, which cuts power to fuse 27 and most other lights, to test with door closed
#4
#7
Its not a relay its a door switch connected to the GEM directly
You can pull the door panel and reach in to unplug the switch, that mimics door closed
Switch is on the lower part of the latch, 2 wire connector
The black one in this picture: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/tnmJF53dv9Q/maxresdefault.jpg
The battery saver relay in a 1997 Ranger should be behind the glove box
You can pull the door panel and reach in to unplug the switch, that mimics door closed
Switch is on the lower part of the latch, 2 wire connector
The black one in this picture: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/tnmJF53dv9Q/maxresdefault.jpg
The battery saver relay in a 1997 Ranger should be behind the glove box
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Wowak
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09-26-2005 10:36 AM