Hi guys and gals, im new here and my name is craig! I recently purchased a (i know) high milage 1994 ranger xl 2.3l from one of our local napa auto parts stores (i know) truck has 300,000 miles on it (i know) but i figured it at least would have been well maintained! Anywsy got it on the real cheap! All that being said, fast forward three days later and im introduced to its possessor! I call him satan! Lol any way the truck intermittently goes to a no start condition randomly after being driven various times and distances! And would restart after resting what started out to be not very long but seems to get longer as we go! Started out like 1-2 hrs now up to 4-5 hrs! Here is what ive been able to test so far while it is in the no start state! The ICM and crank senser check out ok! So am i right in assuming that all there is left is the computer, coils and wiring harness? I have no more tows left for the year and satan likes to play this game in places where i cant leave truck! PLEASE IF YOUR AN EXORSIST OR KNOW ONE PLEASE, PLEASE HELP ME BANISH SATAN BACK TO WHEREVER! WILLING TO TRY ANY AND ALL FAITHS! HELP ME!

 

Welcome to the forum

I assume from your description the starter motor is working fine, so the No Start is either a Fuel or Spark issue

So do the 50/50 test first, always do the 50/50 test
Spray gasoline or starting fluid(ether) into the intake when there is a No Start situation
Then try to start
If it fires up and dies its a Fuel issue
If it doesn't fire up then its a Spark issue, or compression...........1994 2.3l Lima engine does have a timing belt
50/50 instant results

One heads up about the 1989-1994 2.3l Lima Spark system
Only the Exhaust side, passenger side, coil pack and spark plugs work when starter motor is on
The system has a Spark inhibitor circuit on the intake/drivers side Coil pack when starter motor is cranking engine, so its OFF
And its a Waste Spark system, so spark testers often don't work on these coil packs

So if its a coil pack issue then it would only effect Passenger side coil pack on start up, and you could just swap coil pack from one side to the other to test if its a coil pack issue

But do the 50/50 test to see if its a fuel or spark issue, no use wasting time on a non-issue

On Rangers the Fuel Pump should run for 2 seconds when key is turned on, it won't come on again until engine starts
It is not quiet, cycle key on and off as much as you want to make sure you HEAR the fuel pump run for that 2 seconds with key on

 

Thx for reply ron, the starter is ctanking fine, the fuel pump is heard, havent done the fuel in manifold test as i used a new spark plug in plug wire and grounded to engine to check for spark! Going by memory when it wont start the primary coil (front) is nothing and the other coil works fine so i arranged the wires just like the front one (accounting for the fact they face oppisite directions) and tried to start it and wouldnt start!

 

Do the 50/50 test
Then you will know for sure what to spend your time on

Yes, one coil will not work when cranking, that is normal(1989-1994), passenger side works, drivers side doesn't, assuming it wasn't imported from the UK, lol

If it fires on 50/50 test, so spark is working, then unplug the TPS(throttle position sensor) and try starting the engine
TPS can disable fuel injectors if it shorts out to 5volts, wide open setting

 

Thx again ron, will do the 50/50 test and the tps test and will post them! Might take a few days as it doesn't ever seem to do it right away!

 

Update, got out trusty heat gun and heated the tps and bingo was able to get truck into the no start condition and did the 50/50 test and it fired off, then unpluged the tps and bingo again it started! Thx so very much exorcist ron! YOU ROCK! THIS SITE ROCKS! Craig

 

Good work

Thanks for posting the update and FIX

Just FYI, all fuel injection computers have a "Clear Flooded Engine" mode, it allows you to crank the engine over without injectors on to dry it out
On Fords and most others, you get computer into this Mode by doing this:
Turn on the key
Press gas pedal down all the way and hold it down
(TPS gets 5volts from computer, it sends back 1 volt for throttle closed and 4.5v-5.0v for throttle Wide Open)

Computer sees 0 RPMs and TPS above 4.4volts so it enters "Clear Flooded Engine" mode, and won't send injector pulses, but Spark is left ON
This allows you to crank the engine with max air flow to dry it out
When you release gas pedal(TPS drops under 4.4v) injectors will start, even while cranking

If TPS shorts out it can show Wide Open, so "Clear Flooded Engine" mode and no fuel to start up

I use this every morning when starting my high mile 4.0l, I crank the engine over for 10 seconds to get oil pumped thru the system then release gas pedal for start up

 

Neat trick. I park on a steep hill and have been concerned about drain back. I will use this method. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Update gremlin is back or hasn't left! Anyway now when i do the 50/50 test it doesnt start and when the tps is unplugged it dosnt start either! One new observation it was idling and it kinda hickuped or like the computer was trying to adjust somthing i dont know but it almost died so i shut it off and tried to restart and no start! So im assuming what ever made it do that is what makes it go into no start mode! And today i was trying to retrieve codes after warming it up and got the engine off codes and then was trying to get engine running codes and it woildnt start! This is driving me crazy!

 

No spark is something different, i.e. no start with 50/50

Thats either ignition module or crank sensor in a 1994, or 12v power to these

Does the CEL come on with the key, so you know computer is booting up?

You can check either Coils Red wire for 12volts with key on, same 12v powers crank sensor and ICM

 

Yes cel is on with key on! Swaped coils while it was in no start mode no difference checked coil center wire for 12v both coils had 12v checked both signal wires of exhast side coil with 12v test light with aligator clip to pos post of battery and using a pin probed each wire as per haynes manual both wires flashed while cranking but were very dim could barely see the but were flashing still no start! It usually has to sit for 5-6 hrs before it will start again!

 

Also pulled koeo code was 26 mass air out of range! Was trying to get engine on codes when after warming it up for self tests was enough to get it to the no start condition so wasnt able to get the continuous codes!