Can we make a list of the "MODs" for our trucks?
#1
03-14-2005
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
Can we make a list of the "MODs" for our trucks?
OK So Im browsing through the forums all of Saturday night and most of today so far, my days off...anyway I see people listing all sorts of "MODs" to their trucks but can only find out how to do about HALF of them!!!!
Here are some I've heard of but what exactly it is is elusive.
A/C Mod
Blinker Mod
Lowered Seat Mod
ABS Mod (Pretty much have that one figured out)
Oil Gauge Mod
Throttle Mod
I'm sure theres lots more, Ive seen the EATC mod and the steering wheel thing and the Keyless entry thing too. Perhaps we can start a new category or you can just point me in the right direction...some of these things SOUND so damned cool but I dont KNOW what it is!
Peace I'm outta here
Here are some I've heard of but what exactly it is is elusive.
A/C Mod
Blinker Mod
Lowered Seat Mod
ABS Mod (Pretty much have that one figured out)
Oil Gauge Mod
Throttle Mod
I'm sure theres lots more, Ive seen the EATC mod and the steering wheel thing and the Keyless entry thing too. Perhaps we can start a new category or you can just point me in the right direction...some of these things SOUND so damned cool but I dont KNOW what it is!
Peace I'm outta here
#2
03-14-2005
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,351
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From: Somewhere, XYZ
Originally Posted by SonicRanger001
A/C Mod
#3
03-14-2005
RF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,623
Likes: 6
From: Kennett Square, PA
My cardomain site has many of the how-to's in it. I'm the originator of several mods and they are documented there, on generation-edge.com, rangeredge.com, here, and some other places.
There's a link to my cardomain site in my signature. It's 24 pages though -- 6 of them for the EATC alone!
Edit: Oh by the way, do NOT do the throttle cable mod unless you need it. If your throttle opens all the way, you DON'T need it. It can result in overly stressed throttle cables and premature cable failure.
1/2 shafting of the throttle body is covered adequately on http://www.rogueperformance.com
There's a link to my cardomain site in my signature. It's 24 pages though -- 6 of them for the EATC alone!
Edit: Oh by the way, do NOT do the throttle cable mod unless you need it. If your throttle opens all the way, you DON'T need it. It can result in overly stressed throttle cables and premature cable failure.
1/2 shafting of the throttle body is covered adequately on http://www.rogueperformance.com
#4
03-14-2005
RF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 2
From: Delaware
Originally Posted by NHBubba
Member SilverTank has you covered there. I've done this and it's possibly the best mod for my truck. I farkin' hated the way Ford had the controls set up from the factory!
#15
06-02-2005
Originally Posted by ojaneri
Anyone knows where can I get info about the Oil Gauge Mod? Looks like it was on the GE Foruns, but it is extinct by now.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Using the factory on/off pressure switch, the 2003-back oil pressure "gauge" (analog idiot light) is wound so it reads about 40% of full scale when grounded. If you try to use a variable resistance sending unit with this gauge, it can only read a fraction of that, restricting the needle movement to the very bottom of the scale.
So, I swapped in a 95 Ranger gauge segment, the only year that fits the 95~2003 cluster AND is a real gauge. But there is another problem. The original Ford sending unit from 1995 is very large and won't fit the 4.0L SOHC without remote mounting it. After a lot of searching, a G-E member found a Chrysler sending unit that will fit into the confined area near the 4.0L SOHC block BUT the pressure/resistance curve of that SU is way off for for the 95 Ranger gauge.
Here is the slender Chrysler sending unit and connector that will (barely) fit into the restricted area of the 4.0 SOHC block:
To make the 95 gauge work with the sending unit that would fit, I had to change the calibration resistor. This allows the gauge to register about 25~60% of full scale under normal oil pressure.
I made up this test rig to choose the calibration resistor value. There is the gauge, sending unit, 12V battery pack, variable resistance and a 0~100 PSI pressure regulator (not shown).
After this, it was just a matter of adjusting the needle to a reasonable position that would still allow it to return to zero when off.
As a bonus, the Chrysler sending unit assembly contains both an on/off pressure switch AND a variable resistance sending unit. To take advantage of this, I wired up a latching circuit using the on/off switch, a relay and a small Sonalert annunciator. It arms as soon as the start position of the ignition switch is selected. There is an immediate beeping alarm if the oil pressure goes away after that as long as the ignition switch remains on.
It has been correctly pointed out that it is more straightforward and probably easier to install a calibrated aftermarket gauge instead. I just did it on mine to see if it could be done.
So, I swapped in a 95 Ranger gauge segment, the only year that fits the 95~2003 cluster AND is a real gauge. But there is another problem. The original Ford sending unit from 1995 is very large and won't fit the 4.0L SOHC without remote mounting it. After a lot of searching, a G-E member found a Chrysler sending unit that will fit into the confined area near the 4.0L SOHC block BUT the pressure/resistance curve of that SU is way off for for the 95 Ranger gauge.
Here is the slender Chrysler sending unit and connector that will (barely) fit into the restricted area of the 4.0 SOHC block:
To make the 95 gauge work with the sending unit that would fit, I had to change the calibration resistor. This allows the gauge to register about 25~60% of full scale under normal oil pressure.
I made up this test rig to choose the calibration resistor value. There is the gauge, sending unit, 12V battery pack, variable resistance and a 0~100 PSI pressure regulator (not shown).
After this, it was just a matter of adjusting the needle to a reasonable position that would still allow it to return to zero when off.
As a bonus, the Chrysler sending unit assembly contains both an on/off pressure switch AND a variable resistance sending unit. To take advantage of this, I wired up a latching circuit using the on/off switch, a relay and a small Sonalert annunciator. It arms as soon as the start position of the ignition switch is selected. There is an immediate beeping alarm if the oil pressure goes away after that as long as the ignition switch remains on.
It has been correctly pointed out that it is more straightforward and probably easier to install a calibrated aftermarket gauge instead. I just did it on mine to see if it could be done.
#17
06-03-2005
Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 0
From: Wesley Chapel, FL
Originally Posted by Strider0O0
i never knew of the AC mod.. seems simple and worth while.. i think im gonna try it.. first gotta find a stock looking AC switch to use.. maybe from another Ford somewhere..
So.. Mark and I headed to Home Despot and found a nice all steel switch. It's very rugged, and is rated for a ton of amps. So far, it's been rock solid reliable. Plus, no one messes with it, since it looks so obviously "non-stock".
When asked about it, I say "go ahead and try it". So far, no one has.
#19
06-03-2005
Originally Posted by TippnOver
i want this mod...
on my dads sport trac, when you put it from park to drive, and pull forward a bit, the doors automatically lock...
think anyone could figure that out?
on my dads sport trac, when you put it from park to drive, and pull forward a bit, the doors automatically lock...
think anyone could figure that out?
#21
06-03-2005
Originally Posted by loneFX4
anyone care to resurrect how to do the abs disable mod?
#23
06-04-2005
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Ft Lauderdale
