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Buyin a ranger, potential clutch problem?

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Old 01-03-2009
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Buyin a ranger, potential clutch problem?

So I checked out this ranger today and I think I finally found the right one! Here it is:

http://www.bargainnews.com/viewad.cf...947&TheDealer=

It has 118,000 miles on it, its very clean in and out. The only thing that bothered me that is keeping me wondering is the clutch. It has a LOT of freeplay in it. The clutch grabs about 3/4 of the way out, IT seems to be way too much. The pedal has to be almost all of the way extended out before it engages. He told me that it has been like that since he bought it (18,000 miles ago from a ford dealer). That is not normal correct? Could it be a potential slave cylinder problem? Maybe it needs a new clutch? Or just adjustments? What do you think is it worth the $7k even with that problem? Thank you for your input.
 
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Old 01-03-2009
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Sounds like the clutch might just be worn out. On the hydraulic clutch pedals there are no adjustments to my understanding.
 
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Old 01-03-2009
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Big job to replace a clutch? How much would a shop charge on average? I would probably try to do it myself if I could find a writeup somewhere.
 
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Old 01-03-2009
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when should the clutch grab?
 
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Old 01-03-2009
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That is normal. Mine did it with the original clutch and still does it with a new clutch that has 15,000 miles on it. All Fords seem to engage like that. My 92' F-150 did the same thing with a new clutch and slave. The clutch system is hydraulic so it adjusts by itself. $7K seems to be a good price. KBB lists it at $10,200 in excellent condition.
 
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Old 01-03-2009
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i test drove an 06' 5 speed 4x4 the other day and it was the same way
 
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Old 01-03-2009
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Ok good, I am going for it then!

KBB in my area is 7600 for excellent condition:
http://www.kbb.com/KBB/UsedCars/PricingReport.aspx?YearId=2003&Mileage=118000&Vehi cleClass=UsedCar&ManufacturerId=15&ModelId=111&Pri ceType=Private+Party&VehicleId=2409&SelectionHisto ry=2409|29741|06422|0|0|93600|true|93618|true|9364 0|true|540102|true&Condition=Good&QuizConditions=
 
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Old 01-03-2009
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118k miles ? I'd be planning to replace the clutch disc , slave ,and master cylinders.
Ranger slaves are known to go out anywhere from 20k miles and up.
 
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Old 01-03-2009
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What am I looking at for cost of those parts? And possible labor?
 
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Old 01-03-2009
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Originally Posted by rizoss16
Big job to replace a clutch? How much would a shop charge on average? I would probably try to do it myself if I could find a writeup somewhere.
I spent over $1000 having my clutch and slave replaced on a 4x4. Real PITA. Exhaust has to be dropped, front and rear driveshafts, transfer case and everything all has to come out. The slave is inside the bellhousing, so you or your mechanic are idiots if you do not replace the slave when replacing the clutch because the slaves are known for seizing.
 
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Old 01-04-2009
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I woudl say buy it and replace the clutch and slave yourself its easy takes a day or two depending on if you have help of its 4wd or not but nonetheless an easy job just tedious. Also if you have a shop do it your looking at well over 1k. For a nice clutch that is.
 
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Old 01-04-2009
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My dad and I did a clutch swap in the driveway. New flywheel and inner bearing clutch and slave (slave comes in the kit) was like $300 total and a weekend of work. One night of not having my truck. We worked pretty slow too. I was doing most of the work and my dad was supervising. He's getting old. haha.

I dont know where my truck grabs. I never really pay attention except when I'm towing.
 
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Old 01-04-2009
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Originally Posted by Shaklakan
I woudl say buy it and replace the clutch and slave yourself its easy takes a day or two depending on if you have help of its 4wd or not but nonetheless an easy job just tedious. Also if you have a shop do it your looking at well over 1k. For a nice clutch that is.
x2.
 
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Old 01-04-2009
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Ok sounds good then I will do that. I could probably have one of my buddies help me figure it out too. That makes me feel better too because he wouldn't budge on the price. I am buying it for sure during the week!! Im siked! I am going to order a flowmaster muffler, which one is the best sounding for a 4.0? I am not concerned about performance it seemed to have some good power stock, I know to actually get performance out of the flowmaster you also need headers, intake, and highflow cat, but for now I just want it to sound sick, like that deep throaty sound. Which muffler?
 
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Old 01-04-2009
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The 44 series seems VERY quiet, I want it to be louder than that. FX4wanabe has a video on youtube and it sounds too quiet.
 
  #16  
Old 01-04-2009
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Heres the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_RSEZ3wDgQ
What can I get that is louder?

It could just be the sound quality on my crappy laptop speakers.
 

Last edited by rizoss16; 01-04-2009 at 07:34 AM.
  #17  
Old 01-04-2009
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I put on headphones and the vids sound better, I think I will go with the 44 series since I have read its a bit louder. This is my first mod since its the cheapest. Mods to come are: 3" bl, 32" BFG ATs, CA intake, darker tints, highflow cat.
Is there a certain size muffler to order? The exhaust is stock all I will do is cut off the stock muffler and throw the flowmaster on with some clamps.
The 44 series muffler is only $80 on ebay, what size do I order for stock pipe, is it the 2.25?
 
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Old 01-04-2009
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Originally Posted by rizoss16
I put on headphones and the vids sound better, I think I will go with the 44 series since I have read its a bit louder. This is my first mod since its the cheapest. Mods to come are: 3" bl, 32" BFG ATs, CA intake, darker tints, high flow cat.
Is there a certain size muffler to order? The exhaust is stock all I will do is cut off the stock muffler and throw the flowmaster on with some clamps.
The 44 series muffler is only $80 on ebay, what size do I order for stock pipe, is it the 2.25?
I would say if you want loudness go with a 40 series that is what I'm running and its nice and people like the sound also get 2.5 that's also what I'm running it just enough. Also when are you gonna do the clutch? It would be a good idea to order those parts and do that first, since its such a critical item on your vehicle.
 
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Old 01-04-2009
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x2 on the 40 series. Im running a 40 series with only 1 cat left. Sounds BA.
 
  #20  
Old 01-04-2009
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I think I'm going to wait on the clutch until spring when its a little warmer because I don't have a garage, It will be a driveway deal, and most likely need to sit over night so has to be a clear weekend. I think It will hold out the guy said that the clutch has grabbed like it does now ever since he bought it from the dealer 18,000 miles ago.
 
  #21  
Old 01-04-2009
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If you remove your cats how the hell do you pass emissions?
 
  #22  
Old 01-04-2009
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If you want loud just run a short length and then a turn down after the last cats. Or, if you want even louder, after the last O2 sensor.

Buy a Haynes manual to help walk you through the clutch swap.

Some tips I can give you:

either have the front end of the truck lower than the back or be prepared with some plastic bags and some tape when you pull the drive shaft. (gear lube will dribble out of the back)

While the drive shaft is out, inspect it for damage and the balance weight. I was friends with a kid in HS who's dad was also my teacher, so I shot the **** with him in class a lot and he told me that his balance weight fell off and he couldnt figure out the vibrations until the slave cylinder got gummed up and he took it to the auto mechanics class and they saw that it was missing.

Buy a quart of gear lube and a pump, just in case.

A motorcycle jack or transmission jack makes putting the tranny back in 1000% easier.

If the clutch fluid is terrible, drain it, replace it, and bleed it. Otherwise, there is no need to bleed with the quick disconnects on the slave.

If there is hazing on your flywheel, have it turned or replaced. Lucky me was doing the swap on a sunday so the machine shop wasnt open so I had to buy an $80 flywheel.
 
  #23  
Old 01-04-2009
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Thanks for the input!
What about the cats though, I always hear on here of people removing them but then how do you pass emissions? Do you put them back on when its time for emissions testing?
 
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Old 01-04-2009
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once you buy the truck, FIX THE CLUTCH FIRST. Don't be silly and throw money away on mods right off the bat and then come back crying that your truck is broken because you have no clutch and can't afford to fix it.

After your clutch is fixed and the truck is mechanically sound, install a cat-back exhaust system. Keeps the stock exhaust manifolds and cats and replaces everything from behind the cats with larger piping and a free-flowing muffler. It will not affect your emissions in any way shape or form and will keep you legal and still pass.

To get some more noise that you want, install a cold air intake as well. They help add to the deep throaty sound and sound pretty sweet when you stomp on the gas.
 
  #25  
Old 01-04-2009
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Where is the best place to get a clutch kit?
 



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