BL ?
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It took me about 14 and ive never done it before... I lifted the cab first since the bushings are a PITA to get out so I could drive it at night then the next day lifted the bed... If you have your own garage porbly could be done in a day and a half depending opn how long and hard you want to work
#9
ya for the bed u just need to disconnect the fuel filler hose and the breather hose which is right next to it then slice it to stick in the extensions, provided in the kit. most people run into a problem with the front mounts on the truck but i really suggest you go out and get a Mapp Gas can (yellow instead of blue which is propane) with a torch. It will make stuff so much easier for you if you heat the bolts. Also, i suggest getting some PB Blaster and soaking up the top and bottom of the bolts with it for at least an hour to break loose any rust that may have built up over the years. I did the PB Blaster a day in advance and i only used the Mapp Gas on two bolts, and they came right out.
Good Luck.
PS FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS don't just go crazy with it because that's how things get messed up.
Good Luck.
PS FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS don't just go crazy with it because that's how things get messed up.
#10
well im in the process of doing mine right now.. I have an 00 but i dont think much is diff. Id say the hardest things i have encountered were the cab bolts, and the last thing that i ended up giving up on was the radiator.. The dam radiator drop brackets dont fit so you have to modify them.. Well, its not hard but if you dont have someone else to hold up the radiator and help move it around its a PITA.. also the tow hooks were pretty much a Pain.. other than that, it just takes time.. And make sure you are checking all the lines making sure nothing breaks
#12
only problem you would run into is the cab bolts. we used a propane torch to heat them and they came right out.
#13
Definitely follow the directions from the start. And don't rush through it, make sure you do it right. For the rear bumper, if you don't have a tow hitch, there may be a space between the brackets and the bumper. There should be spacers provided, but my PA body lift didn't come with them. You can just buy some grade 8 or stainless steel washers from the hardware store. Also, if your truck is a stick shift, you need a shifter extension, which is sold separately.
#14
Definitely follow the directions from the start. And don't rush through it, make sure you do it right. For the rear bumper, if you don't have a tow hitch, there may be a space between the brackets and the bumper. There should be spacers provided, but my PA body lift didn't come with them. You can just buy some grade 8 or stainless steel washers from the hardware store. Also, if your truck is a stick shift, you need a shifter extension, which is sold separately.
#16
Well it will be 100* + outside so in garage probably 110 so I wont be rushing by any means. Someone mentioned the bushings were a pita to get out? Dont they just slide out when you lift up the cab? Also you can do one side at a time right? what about the steering ext. I can hardly see it and I have to take it apart and add extension and then theres the exaust, I assume that I will have to re-arange that too. Any speciality tools needed? Thanks in advance I plan on doing it the week of the 4th
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Well it will be 100* + outside so in garage probably 110 so I wont be rushing by any means. Someone mentioned the bushings were a pita to get out? Dont they just slide out when you lift up the cab? Also you can do one side at a time right? what about the steering ext. I can hardly see it and I have to take it apart and add extension and then theres the exaust, I assume that I will have to re-arange that too. Any speciality tools needed? Thanks in advance I plan on doing it the week of the 4th
Steering Extension: Takes less then 3 minutes to unbolt the current steering bolt there, and slide in the new one.. The entire rack setup there slides, you'll see what I mean by slides - very easy to install it!
One side at a time: You want to completely remove all the bolts out of the lower bushings so you dont bend them... just un-screw them from the metal washer they are planted in.. and go ahead and leave them in the hole there - that will prevent the body or bed from sliding a bit when you go to jack up one side of the body.
Exhaust: Since you will be lifting the "BODY" 3 inches, that means anything mounted to the frame will stay right where its at - your exhaust, trailer hitch, front/rear tow hooks, and the like will stay right where they are while the body raises up three inches - the best quick cure if you have a sawzall, is to just cut the exhaust off right near the to hide it a bit - unless you have the ability to cut it off and weld it higher out of the way. Make sure you remove your front tow hooks if you have them, as they will get in the way of the lower valance, other then that... the only other body mounted item to worry about the most is the radiator - but the instructions included in the PA Body Lift will cover that if you follow them in order :-)
Tools:
*T-55 Torx Bits for removing the seats and body bolts.
*16-20" or so breaker bar, 1/2" or 3/4" depending on the size of the torx bit - I think they are 1/2".. you just need basic socket tools to get that part of it done.. some extensions will help with getting the body bolts pulled out/put in.
* MAPP Gas, its a must have - propane takes forever to heat the bolts up but will work if its all you have - MAPP gas is the yellow bottle propane looking tank.. costs about $50 for a bottle/ignition head combo at your local hardware store (Home Depot is where I got mine)
*Several chunks of 2x4 or 2x6 lumber - you need these to use with your jack to raise the body - Put a peace long ways against the body where your jack will be making contact.. prevents the body from getting damaged when you start lifting it.
Brain is a bit foggy.. there are soem other things probably - but most of it can be found in a standard mechanics tool set...
Good luck!! Took me about 8-9 hours with a little help from my brother for a few hours! Raise the body first, makes it easier to align the bed up when you go to raise the bed after its removed from the frame. TAKE YOUR TIME!! Don't go trying to match our times and be done in that time frame - the only reason some of us went through quick on it is because we are familiar with our trucks in terms of braking systems, frame layouts, and read a good deal on body lifts in the forum here... Be careful when you go to look at the brake lines when you begin lifting the body - just be slow, crank it up a 1/2" at a time and hop out to take a look at things before you crank it up some more... time is your friend! =)
#22
Thanks that has helped alot. I got the torch and air tools I think un hooking everything will take the longest time. Im sure I can get it done, just kinda worried that I miss something that should have been un- bolted but will take my time. When I had my cars I wasnt worried about something breaking because I had my truck to drive, now I only have my truck sooo. cant afford for it to be down for very long.
Last edited by whisky; 06-24-2009 at 02:17 AM.
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