99,3.0 Aux. temp gauge
#1
10-07-2023
99,3.0 Aux. temp gauge
Looking for info. My temp gauge is not functioning. Has a new sender, I've also swapped clusters out with same result. Stays BELOW C. My question is: #1 what sender goes to the gauge and what one goes to the ECM? #2 if I put an aftermarket gauge in will it affect the computer if I only disconnect the gauge sender and leave the ECM sender intact?
TIA
Joe
TIA
Joe
#2
10-07-2023
ECT sensor is 5volt and always 2 wires, and only used by the computer, light green/red wire and grey/red wire
Coolant temp sender is 12volt, can be 1 wire, red/white wire, or have a 2nd black/white wire for ground, 1 wire model is grounded via threads to engine, so always leave a few bare threads at the bottom
Test for sender wire
Unplug the red/white wire connector from sender
GROUND the red/white wire to battery negative with a jumper wire
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go up to HOT, if not wire is disconnected, or your jumper is bad, lol
If gauge goes to HOT the red/white wire is OK, and gauge in cluster is OK
AFTER above test, if there is a 2nd wire, black/white, then jumper that wire to red/white wire and turn on the key
If gauge doesn't go all the way to HOT then that black/white wire is a bad ground, reground it
If red/white wire and black/white wires test as OK then sender is bad or the wrong one
If red/white wire is bad then it would be easier to run a new wire from sender to cluster
Diagram below shows red/white wire runs to pin 3 on the 12 pin connector
With cluster out you can make sure that connection has not pulled out
You can cut and splice a new wire at the sender and cluster so the wire color at both ends still match for future use
If adding a new gauge you would still need to run new wires if red/white wire was bad
Coolant temp sender is 12volt, can be 1 wire, red/white wire, or have a 2nd black/white wire for ground, 1 wire model is grounded via threads to engine, so always leave a few bare threads at the bottom
Test for sender wire
Unplug the red/white wire connector from sender
GROUND the red/white wire to battery negative with a jumper wire
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go up to HOT, if not wire is disconnected, or your jumper is bad, lol
If gauge goes to HOT the red/white wire is OK, and gauge in cluster is OK
AFTER above test, if there is a 2nd wire, black/white, then jumper that wire to red/white wire and turn on the key
If gauge doesn't go all the way to HOT then that black/white wire is a bad ground, reground it
If red/white wire and black/white wires test as OK then sender is bad or the wrong one
If red/white wire is bad then it would be easier to run a new wire from sender to cluster
Diagram below shows red/white wire runs to pin 3 on the 12 pin connector
With cluster out you can make sure that connection has not pulled out
You can cut and splice a new wire at the sender and cluster so the wire color at both ends still match for future use
If adding a new gauge you would still need to run new wires if red/white wire was bad
Last edited by RonD; 10-07-2023 at 02:03 PM.
The following users liked this post:
larrymt77 (10-08-2023)
#4
2 Weeks Ago
ECT sensor is 5volt and always 2 wires, and only used by the computer, light green/red wire and grey/red wire
Coolant temp sender is 12volt, can be 1 wire, red/white wire, or have a 2nd black/white wire for ground, 1 wire model is grounded via threads to engine, so always leave a few bare threads at the bottom
Test for sender wire
Unplug the red/white wire connector from sender
GROUND the red/white wire to battery negative with a jumper wire
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go up to HOT, if not wire is disconnected, or your jumper is bad, lol
If gauge goes to HOT the red/white wire is OK, and gauge in cluster is OK
AFTER above test, if there is a 2nd wire, black/white, then jumper that wire to red/white wire and turn on the key
If gauge doesn't go all the way to HOT then that black/white wire is a bad ground, reground it
If red/white wire and black/white wires test as OK then sender is bad or the wrong one
If red/white wire is bad then it would be easier to run a new wire from sender to cluster
Diagram below shows red/white wire runs to pin 3 on the 12 pin connector
With cluster out you can make sure that connection has not pulled out
You can cut and splice a new wire at the sender and cluster so the wire color at both ends still match for future use
If adding a new gauge you would still need to run new wires if red/white wire was bad
Coolant temp sender is 12volt, can be 1 wire, red/white wire, or have a 2nd black/white wire for ground, 1 wire model is grounded via threads to engine, so always leave a few bare threads at the bottom
Test for sender wire
Unplug the red/white wire connector from sender
GROUND the red/white wire to battery negative with a jumper wire
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go up to HOT, if not wire is disconnected, or your jumper is bad, lol
If gauge goes to HOT the red/white wire is OK, and gauge in cluster is OK
AFTER above test, if there is a 2nd wire, black/white, then jumper that wire to red/white wire and turn on the key
If gauge doesn't go all the way to HOT then that black/white wire is a bad ground, reground it
If red/white wire and black/white wires test as OK then sender is bad or the wrong one
If red/white wire is bad then it would be easier to run a new wire from sender to cluster
Diagram below shows red/white wire runs to pin 3 on the 12 pin connector
With cluster out you can make sure that connection has not pulled out
You can cut and splice a new wire at the sender and cluster so the wire color at both ends still match for future use
If adding a new gauge you would still need to run new wires if red/white wire was bad
go full hot when wires are jumped. Uhgggg
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