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94 locking locking differential questions

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  #1  
Old 03-04-2009
monkeysteeler12's Avatar
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From: vienna va
94 locking locking differential questions

i was doing some research, and saw that other 2WD rangers would wheel hard. mostly with the assist of a locking diff. i tried to do some research on them. and decided if i wanted to get a new one, i would get a locking, not a limited slip.

when i looked on ebay, and other various sites, i didnt find any information on what to get (if i do get something). i guess i just suck, cause i coulnt even find any.

ive got a 1994 XLT automatic ranger. 2.3L 4 cylinder. 2WD open diff.

i just wanted to know what kinds do you guys have?
is it actually worth getting one? (pretty sure i know the answer to that)
how much did you end up spending?
what was the difficultly rating?
and finally, what the heck should i get. if, in fact i do end up purchasing one.

thanks.
 
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Old 03-04-2009
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i think you should SAS your truck
 
  #3  
Old 03-04-2009
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From: Sask, Canada
Your best bet is to find a newer Torsion (sp) equipped 8.8" 31-spline with the OEM Locker unit. No setting backlash, regearing (4:10s should be sufficient), and it will be only about 3/4" wider than your current 7.5".

If not that route, a regular 28-spline 8.8" then purchase and install separately a Lock-Rite or other gear style locker regeared to your choice.
 
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Old 03-04-2009
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I have a Torsen Gear driven LS in my 2wd truck. I've had good success wheeling with it, but I would prefer having a true locker. If I was going to buy a new one it would be an Ox locker that is controlled with a manual cable. Pricey, but my preference.
 
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Old 03-04-2009
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From: Mission B.C.
Originally Posted by Downey
i think you should SAS your truck
Another brilliant post. I hope that helps him out alot!


But Ashik, I would get a lift and tires before you go anywhere near a locker. With that 4 cyl, I would assume that you have a 7.5 rear axel. I would swap in an 8.8 first. It will hold up alot better than the weak 7.5, and if you are lucky, you will find one that is 4.10 gear ratio.
 
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Old 03-04-2009
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From: Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
Originally Posted by Downey
i think you should SAS your truck
What for?

As said above get an 8.8 under there.
 
  #7  
Old 03-04-2009
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From: vienna va
I've herd SAS on here before. What's that?
I'm in class now so I can't look it up.

Lift is coming soon. Along with tires. I'm just wanting to know about lockers for my truck so I have general ideas.
 
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Old 03-04-2009
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From: Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
SAS is solid axle swap for the front. You need skills and tools to do it. You only need it if you do serious offroading which not much of us do.
 
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Old 03-04-2009
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From: Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
Originally Posted by chainfire
Not worth it for your truck. But as for your original question, a lockrite is the cheapest, it is an automatic lock, and you cannot turn it off. You can also get an aussie locker, which is air activated, but the problem with these are that you now have to worry about an air compressor/tank.
Aussie is auto like the lockright but Aussie only makes them for the 8.8 31 spline. I think u were thinking ARB.
 
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Old 03-04-2009
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From: Mission B.C.
Not worth it for your truck. But as for your original question, a lockrite is the cheapest, it is an automatic lock, and you cannot turn it off. You can also get an aussie locker, which is air activated, but the problem with these are that you now have to worry about an air compressor/tank.
 
  #11  
Old 03-04-2009
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From: Firey depths
I would find a 4.10 geared open (NOT L/S) 8.8 from an explorer (31 spline), then get an Aussie locker. (they dont make a 28 spline aussie for ranger axles only 31 spline and an Aussie wont work in a L/S carrier it needs to be an open carrier)

Aussie is about 225-250 depending where you look.
 
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Old 03-04-2009
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From: Mission B.C.
Originally Posted by fddriver02
Aussie is auto like the lockright but Aussie only makes them for the 8.8 31 spline. I think u were thinking ARB.
Ahh **** got them mixed up lol.
 
  #13  
Old 03-04-2009
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From: vienna va
i am totally out of my league...

does anyone know of a somewhat simple how to?

and a some what price that would go into this?
 
  #14  
Old 03-04-2009
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if youre not going to do hard core wheeling

i'd say just weld your spider gears together.....i know its a redneck way of doing it but it works
 
  #15  
Old 03-04-2009
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From: Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
Originally Posted by TheStig88
if youre not going to do hard core wheeling

i'd say just weld your spider gears together.....i know its a redneck way of doing it but it works
Yeah it works until you turn then you break everything apart inside.
 
  #16  
Old 03-04-2009
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From: vienna va
hes right about me not doing HARD wheeling. but right now this open diff. sucks.
 
  #17  
Old 03-04-2009
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From: Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
Find a 8.8 with a l/s from a junk yard.
 
  #18  
Old 03-04-2009
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From: Firey depths
Originally Posted by fddriver02
Yeah it works until you turn then you break everything apart inside.
A properly welded set of spiders wont break.
 
  #19  
Old 03-04-2009
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From: Mission B.C.
Originally Posted by redranger4.0
A properly welded set of spiders wont break.
But what about everything else? He has a 7.5, nothing inside that axel will live up to a welded diff.
 
  #20  
Old 03-04-2009
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I wouldn't weld a diff in anything that would be street driven....
 
  #21  
Old 03-08-2009
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How much better is a L/S over an open? I know it is better bet I mean what are you gonna expect out of it.
 
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