I have a 90 ranger xcab 4.0 auto I'd like opinions. My truck has over 250000 miles on it engine runs good but lifters r weak and think oil pump is weak and trans could use some help. My question is what r the pros and cons between keeping the 4.0 which is potent or swapping for efi 5.0 auto out of my tbird

 

4.0l OHV has 160HP with 207 ft/lb torque
5.0l OHV has 200-210HP with 280 ft/lb torque

So a substantial gain, BUT.....................
It is a costly project even if you have the engine, trans and computer.
T-bird needs to be a MAF system or it will be more work, also pre-'96
And I assume the t-bird 5.0l and trans are not recently rebuilt, which is a factor to be considered if this is a daily driver.

I would first price out 4.0l rebuild and trans rebuild.
Then price out the swap parts needed, which is not easy but when you get what you think is a firm number....double it, the little PITA pieces that you can't think of are what add up.
i.e. what kind of speedometer is used in the t-bird, '90 ranger has mechanical, with VSS for ABS/cruise if so equipped
Exhaust system needs lots of tight work
Body needs to be raised or heater box changed.

The benefit in staying with 4.0l is that it is stock, when you need a part you look at getting a part for a 1990 4.0l Ranger.
Parts for 1990 5.0l Ranger will be a little harder to find, lol, especially when you start changing things during the build to make things fit.
Nothing wrong with that it is just something to consider.

You are still going to have 250k on the running gear and other parts with either.

 

The engine and trans in my bird was good running driver before ecu went bad and windshield is cracked bad so motor and trans r pretty good but I do get wat u r saying.I know bout how much headache the swap will b I'm looking at price mostly cause lifters for my truck r almost 40 a piece and for 12 of them is high price unless someone knows were I can get cheaper then I have to add n engine gasket kit and possibly a oil pump that's y I'm torn plus if I don't use engine and trans out of my car then I got them don't know what to do with. Actually I like the 4.0 just crappy fuel mileage and can't afford all that unless I can engine then don't know what got. My car is 88 Thunderbird (frame and body bent)is not analog its digital spdo it is not MAF its air density and trans is I think ECU controlled. Maybe someone can give info on what to do with 4.0 prefer to keep. Parts and prices on 4.0 r high especially the lifters any info

 

Well if you don't have the V8 computer I would see what that replacement cost would be, because you would need it.
Doesn't read like the T-bird will be back on the road anytime soon, lol.
I would check out what the resale value for the t-bird(with good engine and trans), is in your area, could use that money towards 4.0l rebuild.

Master rebuild kit for 1990 4.0l OHV runs about $800, includes new cam and lifters, plus Timing Set, Pistons, Piston Rings, Rod Bearings, Main Bearings, Cam Bearings, Oil Pump, Frost Plugs, Gasket Set

That's from Northern auto parts.
They also have just the lifters(roller) for $222 for the set of 12, so $18.50 each.

Used 4.0l OHV(1990-2000, ranger, explorer or aerostar) Vin X engine with 150k miles run about $850-$1,100 delivered.
But..............you never know with used engines, even your t-bird's, lol.

 

I've got a 88 turbo bird (daily driver)that I could put engine in just don't want to unless have. Computer for 5.0 bird is 130 and don't think I can sell that car due to me haven to rob parts off it to put in turbo bird and with frame and body structure bent and needing suspension work it would make a parts car even though I've had 13yrs that's my delima on my truck I can get a engine out of friends 92 explorer was running it blowsd head gasket said it ran good just skipping and blowing white smoke he said I can have engine but kind of weiry of it could have head damage if motor got to hot and I could take 2 motors and make 1. What y'all think

 

You should have 2 good heads on your '90 4.0l, so if the '92 has lower miles on the engine then swap them, but bad head is easy to spot once it is removed, they crack between the valve seats, so may not need to do the swap just fix the head gasket.
Check the oil on it, make sure coolant didn't end up in the oil and circulate thru the bearings, if so pass, and rebuild yours.

 

Yea I thought of oil so I checked it looked good with me I'm on budget still driving truck just need to weigh my opinions I figure just fixing other engine (was told that engine sound good except for skipping due to head gasket or head) my biggest worry is how hot did engine get don't know much about engine but I know mine its a driver thought maybe swap lifters push rods maybe rockers get a gasket kit and maybe oil pump and see what happens my engine is good engine I'm surprised he still runs but does what u think do u reckin my cam alright considering my lifter problems

 

Not sure what your lifter problems are?
You never described any symptoms.

You can remove the valve covers and manually turn engine, checking for loose push rods and height of lift, this can tell you if cam has a bad lobe, but a collapsed lifter would show up the same as worn cam lobe, have to remove lower intake after that to determine if it is a cam or lifter issue.
If height of lift is OK on all 12 push rods and you, I assume, have a "ticking" noise or misfiring now and then, then yes a lifter has a clogged passage or bad internal valve.

 

I've got one lifter that ticks real loud when cold but when it warms up it fades in and out(gets loud then quiet and does it continuously) and think I got a other weak lifter judging on how sounds and runs keep in mind when I bought this truck 6 yes ago it was making same noise and it ran same the only difference is more miles and little more noisy due to lifts truck has always ran strong for 250+k miles I lime my truck just money always issue that's y I haven't fix problem(u know if it aint broke y fix lol) but now need to fix its leaking head gaskets need to replace all gaskets and think oil pump need to check oil pressure my oil pressure gauge used to read right but its progressively got lower and engine has got louder so I assumed oil pump

 

Not the Cam then, it can't come and go, and after 6 years it would be "flat" now, so you would have a dead cylinder.

You ever run 1/2 quart of ATF(automatic transmission fluid) in the oil just before an oil change?
AFT is high detergent oil, it can clean out passages and lifters, run it for 100 miles or so.

 

No I never done that but its been sucking trans fluid threw vacuum hose since I've had it I changed modular valve on trans still does it something else to fix lol

 

If you changed the shift modulator, and I assume drained or blew out the hose, and you are still getting ATF in that hose then that modulator, new or not, is bad.

 

Yeah did all that and replaced front seal n trans cause of leaking starting leaking again within a month or two figured the collar bearing in trans need to b replaced just having pulled trans out to replace and i replaced modular when it started leaking again I said screw it I'll fix later that was two years ago.

 

We'll in your opinion( I not the smartest n engine work but do have common since that's y I research a lot so thanks for info ) Do u think it will work alright if I put gasket kit oil pump on my engine and use lifts pushrods and rockers off other engine and put them in order the way they came out of other engine. Wonder if that would work I'm on budget not building hot rod its my driver and it don't go a lot of miles but I'm not afraid to open it up from time to time lol I think it will work as long as parts alright just need some info before I jump into it ?