truck sat for 5 years drained gas changed fuel filter
will run on starter fluid
good pressure to the fuel rails
sometimes when trying to start the truck it will not turn over after a few tries it will turn over but not start .. beginning to think it is pcm related
fuel pump cuts on but does not cut back off after the 2 second time frame just stays on with key on

 

well i have narrowed down to what i think is that the injectors are not getting a ground which i’m guessing means the pcm needs replacing does anyone have anymore knowledge on that topic?

 

Welcome to the forum

If its starts by adding fluid manually then crank sensor and spark are working

Injectors could just be clogged after sitting for 5 years, gasoline dries out and leaves a harden varnish behind

2001 Ranger has PATS(passive anti-theft system), which disables injectors if the correct key is not use to start the engine, so no ground signal if PATS is activated
PATS will also disable starter motor and fuel pump, just FYI

On the dash is a THEFT light, it should flash every 5 to 10 seconds when key is OFF, warns thieves that PATS is enabled
You can get the 2001 owners manual here to see where THEFT light is on the dash: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

When you turn on the key the THEFT light should come ON and then go OFF, if Key "passed the test", if THEFT light starts to flash rapidly then key was not accepted and PATS has disable the system, injectors, starter motor and fuel pump

If you repeat key off and on 3 or 4 times and get the Flashing THEFT light each time then PATS will go into LOCKED DOWN MODE, you have to wait 90min before retrying or you will just keep getting the flashing THEFT light until you stop trying, then wait the 90min, unhooking battery doesn't help, its a timer chip

PATS can be enabled by low battery voltage, battery needs to be 12.4v to 12.8volts, 12.3v should be OK but very marginal, 12.2v or lower will trigger PATS

The Flashing THEFT light will flash a code number if you just let it flash for 45 to 60 seconds, leave key on, a 2 digit code, a 1 then 1 to 6 flashes and it repeats
11 Transceiver [transponder coil] not connected, or there is no power to it.
12 Transceiver internal fault.
13 No Key/no PATS key has been used to turn the ignition switch.
14 Incomplete key code received.
15 Invalid key code received.
16 CAN communications error.

Not sure a test light will work to see injector pulse on a Ford, Noid Light can be used
Assuming PATS has not disabled injectors

PATS is a big deal, there is no bypass or work around for it, you can jump start to get it to work, even jumper the fuel pump relay, but just no way to get injectors working if PATS say "no way Jose"

 

as far as i can tell the theft light is functioning how it should i put a noid light on the injector and while the engine was turning over it didn’t flash but i have the 12v to the injectors
also the pcm relay gives a nice click when you cut the key on ive changed it out already but still clicks the check engine light almost flickers for a second like it’s loose then illuminates fully after a second or two also
i’m so lost on this one

 

Stays illuminated while cranking ?

 

no with key on so basically
you get in key on pcm relay clicks IAC “click click click” check engine light comes on but flickering like it’s gonna go out then the lights get normal and then quiet except door dinger turn key nothing happens.. key off key on and repeat until it will turn over turns over won’t start the fuel rail shows good pressure the fuel pump continues running and the noid light doesn’t flicker on the injector while it’s turning over all fuses and relays that i know to check look good

 

I would unplug the PCM's large 104 wire connector and check it for corrosion, upper center of firewall

Clean it as best you can and reinstall
You have a computer issue, for sure, if fuel pump stays running, and because of flickering CEL

Hopefully it is just shorts/bad connections in the connector

After cleaning if it demonstrates the same same symptoms, pull out the PCM and get the numbers off it(take picture of label), also open it up and check for corrosion, if seen clean it up and retest, don't have to reinstall just hook up the connector and any grounds


PCM part number will be 1L5A-12A650-XXX
1 = 2001
L5 = Ranger or Mazda B-series
A = department

12A650 = PCM, for ALL and ANY Ford vehicle, not Ranger specific

The XXX is the designation for engine size and manual or automatic trans

You can match this by just getting the PCM from a vehicle that matches yours, same engine size, same transmission
2WD or 4x4 doesn't matter

There will also be a larger "number" stamped onto the PCM label, that's the Software version that was loaded when vehicle was made, there should be a white sticker in the engine bay somewhere with that same "number", it its a different "number" then Software was updated, OR PCM has been swapped out before

You MUST GET KEYS with any new/used PCM, PATS is inside the PCM in 2001 so you need the correct keys that are in its memory
OR
You will need to add your current keys to new/used PCM using Forscan software, or have a Mobile Locksmith come out and do that

If you get a used PCM get any keys with it AND the ignition cylinder so you can install that in your Ranger

 

ok super helpful info there sorry for the late reply i don’t have much knowledge on the pcms just want to clarify

the 104 connector is up top of the fire wall favoring the passenger side like an angled plug
the pcm is below the brake booster on the driver side and there is another plug there i think
i haven’t checked it out yet worked a long day gonna jump on it in the am sorry for the late responses

 

No, and yes

The 104 wire plug is at the location you describe, the PCM is behind it, inside the firewall

The 104-wire plug has a bolt in the center that holds it to the PCM, seen here: https://easyautodiagnostics.com/imag...99/image_2.jpg
Disconnect either battery cable first
Remove the center bolt, it won't come out all the way, when it stops "unscrewing", wiggle the connector to free it up and pull it off, may need to pry at the edges to get it off
You may need to loosen/unbolt wire holders next to it on the firewall to get enough slack to pull connector off and back

In the picture you can see the two nuts, on the two studs, the nuts are removed to pull the PCM out

Because of its location, if the hood gasket leaked a bit then water could get into the connector or PCM causing issues
In later years a cover was installed on that whole assembly
Wasn't a common issue at all, but was a "known" issue, hence the cover was added, lol

 

ok thanks again i’ll get with you in the am if i get a chance to look it over !

 

ok so things changed i pulled the computer
there was a performance chip i took it out now the dash and everything acts normally but the theft light gives me code 15

 

here’s what i found

 

PATS code 15: Invalid key code received

This means PATS is working, but the number in the key didn't match any of the numbers in PATS memory list of programmed keys

It wasn't code 14 Incomplete key code received.
So not a "bad key", just wrong key

Not familiar with performance chips, you may want to look up the brand of the chip to see if it effected PATS in a 2001-2003 Ranger
In 2001-2003 PATS is IN the computer(PCM)
In 1998-2000 PATS was a separate module
In 2004-2011 PATS was in the new digital instrument cluster

 

do you know if something was plugged on where that chip is from the factory ?

 

I have never used a performance chip so have no knowledge of how it is installed

 

got the pcm flashed to a new key runs now just gotta get all the kinks out thanks again ron