Looking for suggestions on what are the best( not wallet breaking) manual locking hubs for a 1996 ranger. Just bought it and 4x4 is out. Took it to shop and they tore apart and they said easy fix just change from auto to manual. Looking for what hubs to buy!

thanks

 

Welcome to the forum

So when you select 4high or 4low the dash lights come on?
That means the 4WD system is working, hubs have nothing to do with that part of the system

And you don't have 4WD so yes that would be auto hub issue, or if there is a clicking noise in 4WD

How-to is here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li..._hubswap.shtml

The hubs are YEAR SPECIFIC
WARN are the best, even from a wrecking yard, get the internal parts

Your 1996 should have a Dana 35 front axle, 27 spline
But best to make sure, some Dana 28 front axle(23 spline) were used in 4cyl and 3.0l Rangers until 1997, although rare

Look here to ID what you have for sure: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...na_28_35.shtml

 

when I click into 4 high or low it makes the sound that it tries but it doesn’t engage. Took it to local transmission shop. They said left side heads and spring were blown out. Ride side was all full of grease and dirt. I looked around and everything I read said to switch to manual locking because the auto locking aren’t worth it.

 

So the 4WD lights come on?



Yes, while the auto locks you have on a 1996 were good, parts are scarce, so manual hub conversion is better long term

 

ya the light comes. But nothing is working

 

Then 4WD is working all the way to the front wheels but both front wheels are not locking

The 4WD lights only come on when transfer case is in the correct position, 4high and 4low

 

Can those factory hubs be serviced? Like do they just need to be greased?

I have (or had) the crappy PVH system in my 98 and swapped in some AVMs. They're great. I really like the manual hubs.

 

They can be serviced but hard to find the Cam assembly that does the auto lock and unlock

No, grease is the enemy, keep it in the wheel bearing, just a light coat of motor oil or ATF is all you want on the sliding auto hub parts, even on manual hubs

The 1983 to 1997 auto hubs use axle torque to lock, in 2WD the wheels spin freely and axles don't move at all
When you shift to 4WD the front axles will now spin, that caused the Cam assembly to lock the axle to the hub, it would slide into lock position, both wheels need to be Locked to get 4WD, its an OPEN differential in the front so if only 1 side locks the unlocked side is easier to spin so it gets 100% of the power, so no 4WD
To release the front hubs you need to shift to 2WD and then back up 20-50ft, with no axle torque and the wheels spinning backwards the Cam assembly will slide the other way and unlock
Drawing here of the cam assemble and the other parts for auto hub: https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/.../85558037L.gif

Manual hubs replace the cam assembly, so it slides into lock and then unlock

 

Thanks RonD! Great info as always. Yes the AVMs I have get a light coating of motor oil. I thought the older ones got grease.

 

the guy that went I’ve the truck and tried to fix it basically said the auto locking hubs are trash and just about everyone changes to manual. And that it’s cost 1000 or more to fix it all and get it going again. Rather than like 300 to change it to manual locking hubs. I’m just trying to find some online that are quality and not bank breaking

 

Unfortunately my 98 is completely different from your 96. My AVMs were only about 125$ and a breeze to install.

 

Check 1A Auto. They have a sale on locking hubs.
1996 27 spline Normally $219 for 2, now for $145 a pair. If that's what your truck needs.
Rugged Ridge Conversion kits for $245, regularly $395.
https://www.1aauto.com/search?q=lock...1996&model=250