1995 ford ranger 4.0 4x4 stalling while driving
#1
1995 ford ranger 4.0 4x4 stalling while driving
Creeker1775 , 25 Minutes Ago
Member
The truck is a 95 xlt 4x4 5 speed manual and up until the other day it ran great. The problems I'm having are when I come to a stop in neutral it will bog down and shut off. It does start right back up. The other day I was on my way home and coming out of 2nd in to 3d getting back into the gas and th truck shut off. Still had lights and power but had to let the truck sit for about 30 minutes before it started again. The fuel pump is about a year old an I replaced the fuel filter yesterday, an had the same issues with It shutting off coming to a stop and again when I was getting back In to the gas. Aside from the pump and the filter I don't know what it could be. It seems to me like something is blocking the fuel or its getting restricted an shutting off... I haven't found any lose, or deteriorated fuel lines. Truck starts and runs can not find cause for the stalling NEED HELP
Member
The truck is a 95 xlt 4x4 5 speed manual and up until the other day it ran great. The problems I'm having are when I come to a stop in neutral it will bog down and shut off. It does start right back up. The other day I was on my way home and coming out of 2nd in to 3d getting back into the gas and th truck shut off. Still had lights and power but had to let the truck sit for about 30 minutes before it started again. The fuel pump is about a year old an I replaced the fuel filter yesterday, an had the same issues with It shutting off coming to a stop and again when I was getting back In to the gas. Aside from the pump and the filter I don't know what it could be. It seems to me like something is blocking the fuel or its getting restricted an shutting off... I haven't found any lose, or deteriorated fuel lines. Truck starts and runs can not find cause for the stalling NEED HELP
Last edited by Creeker1775; 10-18-2022 at 08:40 AM.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Watch the CEL(check engine light)
Does it come on when engine has stalled?
It should, 0 RPMs with key on, and computer should turn in CEL
When you crank it for restart CEL should go OFF as soon as RPMs are no longer 0, that means Crank Sensor is working
If CEL doesn't come on as soon as RPMs are 0 then computer has shut off, which is why engine stopped running
Test system voltage at battery, better to test on warmed up engine so idle is lower
12.3v to 12.8v key off
13.5v to 14.8v engine running
Then switch to AC Volts, engine running
Under 0.1vAC is acceptable, over that means alternator is bad
Vehicle electronics will be interfered with if the AC leakage gets too high,cause all sorts of odd issues
Yes, could be "new" fuel pump has an issue, not at all uncommon for 3rd party fuel pumps to fail in the first 2 years, many posts about having to replace a "new" fuel pump 3 or 4 times to get one that lasts past warranty period
Not really any way to test that
If possible, when engine stalls, coast to the side of the road, and open the hood, press the pin on fuel pressure test port on passenger side of engine, should be 30psi of pressure in there
If no pressure then pump DID shut off
How has the MPG been?
If its been going down then check the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine
FPR has a fuel hose and a Vacuum line
Check the vacuum line for gasoline, if FPR leaks then gas is sucked into the engine thru that line and can flood out the engine at lower RPMs, but MPG will be much lower if that is happening
Does it come on when engine has stalled?
It should, 0 RPMs with key on, and computer should turn in CEL
When you crank it for restart CEL should go OFF as soon as RPMs are no longer 0, that means Crank Sensor is working
If CEL doesn't come on as soon as RPMs are 0 then computer has shut off, which is why engine stopped running
Test system voltage at battery, better to test on warmed up engine so idle is lower
12.3v to 12.8v key off
13.5v to 14.8v engine running
Then switch to AC Volts, engine running
Under 0.1vAC is acceptable, over that means alternator is bad
Vehicle electronics will be interfered with if the AC leakage gets too high,cause all sorts of odd issues
Yes, could be "new" fuel pump has an issue, not at all uncommon for 3rd party fuel pumps to fail in the first 2 years, many posts about having to replace a "new" fuel pump 3 or 4 times to get one that lasts past warranty period
Not really any way to test that
If possible, when engine stalls, coast to the side of the road, and open the hood, press the pin on fuel pressure test port on passenger side of engine, should be 30psi of pressure in there
If no pressure then pump DID shut off
How has the MPG been?
If its been going down then check the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine
FPR has a fuel hose and a Vacuum line
Check the vacuum line for gasoline, if FPR leaks then gas is sucked into the engine thru that line and can flood out the engine at lower RPMs, but MPG will be much lower if that is happening
#3
Watch the CEL(check engine light)
Does it come on when engine has stalled?
It should, 0 RPMs with key on, and computer should turn in CEL
When you crank it for restart CEL should go OFF as soon as RPMs are no longer 0, that means Crank Sensor is working
If CEL doesn't come on as soon as RPMs are 0 then computer has shut off, which is why engine stopped running
Test system voltage at battery, better to test on warmed up engine so idle is lower
12.3v to 12.8v key off
13.5v to 14.8v engine running
Then switch to AC Volts, engine running
Under 0.1vAC is acceptable, over that means alternator is bad
Vehicle electronics will be interfered with if the AC leakage gets too high,cause all sorts of odd issues
Yes, could be "new" fuel pump has an issue, not at all uncommon for 3rd party fuel pumps to fail in the first 2 years, many posts about having to replace a "new" fuel pump 3 or 4 times to get one that lasts past warranty period
Not really any way to test that
If possible, when engine stalls, coast to the side of the road, and open the hood, press the pin on fuel pressure test port on passenger side of engine, should be 30psi of pressure in there
If no pressure then pump DID shut off
How has the MPG been?
If its been going down then check the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine
FPR has a fuel hose and a Vacuum line
Check the vacuum line for gasoline, if FPR leaks then gas is sucked into the engine thru that line and can flood out the engine at lower RPMs, but MPG will be much lower if that is happening
Does it come on when engine has stalled?
It should, 0 RPMs with key on, and computer should turn in CEL
When you crank it for restart CEL should go OFF as soon as RPMs are no longer 0, that means Crank Sensor is working
If CEL doesn't come on as soon as RPMs are 0 then computer has shut off, which is why engine stopped running
Test system voltage at battery, better to test on warmed up engine so idle is lower
12.3v to 12.8v key off
13.5v to 14.8v engine running
Then switch to AC Volts, engine running
Under 0.1vAC is acceptable, over that means alternator is bad
Vehicle electronics will be interfered with if the AC leakage gets too high,cause all sorts of odd issues
Yes, could be "new" fuel pump has an issue, not at all uncommon for 3rd party fuel pumps to fail in the first 2 years, many posts about having to replace a "new" fuel pump 3 or 4 times to get one that lasts past warranty period
Not really any way to test that
If possible, when engine stalls, coast to the side of the road, and open the hood, press the pin on fuel pressure test port on passenger side of engine, should be 30psi of pressure in there
If no pressure then pump DID shut off
How has the MPG been?
If its been going down then check the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine
FPR has a fuel hose and a Vacuum line
Check the vacuum line for gasoline, if FPR leaks then gas is sucked into the engine thru that line and can flood out the engine at lower RPMs, but MPG will be much lower if that is happening
#4
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iTrader: (1)
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