***body or sup. lift need help on this***
#26
DOH...hell aren't I-beams even cheaper?
The chevy shackle is actually a drop (lowering) shackle made for the chevy 1500. It adds about 1.5 inches of lift and works great with a add-a-leaf. I believe some of the shackles have a grease fitting too. Most guys use the Belltech 6400 2" chevy drop shackle.
Another thing, your going to want to regear that rearend. If you have the 7.5 rear just get a 8.8 with 4.10's. Junkyards are your best bet for one of those.
The chevy shackle is actually a drop (lowering) shackle made for the chevy 1500. It adds about 1.5 inches of lift and works great with a add-a-leaf. I believe some of the shackles have a grease fitting too. Most guys use the Belltech 6400 2" chevy drop shackle.
Another thing, your going to want to regear that rearend. If you have the 7.5 rear just get a 8.8 with 4.10's. Junkyards are your best bet for one of those.
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ok getting a new rear end is a must from what im seeing.. so how hard is it to put one in? as far as the axle and the u joints matching up, and would i have to angle the rear end a little different if im lifting it? so the axle wont be in a bind?
.
. thanks for the info this is all b.a.!
#27
DOH...hell aren't I-beams even cheaper?
The chevy shackle is actually a drop (lowering) shackle made for the chevy 1500. It adds about 1.5 inches of lift and works great with a add-a-leaf. I believe some of the shackles have a grease fitting too. Most guys use the Belltech 6400 2" chevy drop shackle.
Another thing, your going to want to regear that rearend. If you have the 7.5 rear just get a 8.8 with 4.10's. Junkyards are your best bet for one of those.
The chevy shackle is actually a drop (lowering) shackle made for the chevy 1500. It adds about 1.5 inches of lift and works great with a add-a-leaf. I believe some of the shackles have a grease fitting too. Most guys use the Belltech 6400 2" chevy drop shackle.
Another thing, your going to want to regear that rearend. If you have the 7.5 rear just get a 8.8 with 4.10's. Junkyards are your best bet for one of those.
#28
#29
AND rps.....? What is that?
Last edited by phat_95_ranger_xlt; 09-01-2008 at 03:48 PM.
#30
#31
#32
I explained tib and ttb earlier in this post lol.
As for axle swap, the hardest part is finding another axle, and bleeding brakes unless you have a vacuum bleeder which i did so it was easy.
No lift kit comes with beams besides camburg. They send bent beams to correct camber, again i covered that ealier, haha, all other kits sent drop brackets to lower the beam and radius arm mounting points on the frame, therefore correcting camber.
And i also covered the gearing questions earlier. LOL you still interested in the spacers, i gotta make me some bumper brackets thursday so i will be in the machine shop and have the lathe and mill all to myself that day. Jus pm me and we can work something out, but chromoly is not cheap right now but i got connections.
As for axle swap, the hardest part is finding another axle, and bleeding brakes unless you have a vacuum bleeder which i did so it was easy.
No lift kit comes with beams besides camburg. They send bent beams to correct camber, again i covered that ealier, haha, all other kits sent drop brackets to lower the beam and radius arm mounting points on the frame, therefore correcting camber.
And i also covered the gearing questions earlier. LOL you still interested in the spacers, i gotta make me some bumper brackets thursday so i will be in the machine shop and have the lathe and mill all to myself that day. Jus pm me and we can work something out, but chromoly is not cheap right now but i got connections.
#33
I explained tib and ttb earlier in this post lol.
As for axle swap, the hardest part is finding another axle, and bleeding brakes unless you have a vacuum bleeder which i did so it was easy.
No lift kit comes with beams besides camburg. They send bent beams to correct camber, again i covered that ealier, haha, all other kits sent drop brackets to lower the beam and radius arm mounting points on the frame, therefore correcting camber.
And i also covered the gearing questions earlier. LOL you still interested in the spacers, i gotta make me some bumper brackets thursday so i will be in the machine shop and have the lathe and mill all to myself that day. Jus pm me and we can work something out, but chromoly is not cheap right now but i got connections.
As for axle swap, the hardest part is finding another axle, and bleeding brakes unless you have a vacuum bleeder which i did so it was easy.
No lift kit comes with beams besides camburg. They send bent beams to correct camber, again i covered that ealier, haha, all other kits sent drop brackets to lower the beam and radius arm mounting points on the frame, therefore correcting camber.
And i also covered the gearing questions earlier. LOL you still interested in the spacers, i gotta make me some bumper brackets thursday so i will be in the machine shop and have the lathe and mill all to myself that day. Jus pm me and we can work something out, but chromoly is not cheap right now but i got connections.
. NOW I KNOW WHAT U MENT..lol. finding the axle itnt that hard .. i found on in a local town about a hour away for 100 8.8 rear... but im not sure of the gear ratio.
as far as ratio go .. is there a converter for our 2.3? as far what gear to run with what size tired or what is perfered?
..
,
and what would be better as far as strenth in sup. ( pre-bend i- beam or the lowering brackets?
#34
Ok lift answers first. I beams will be stronger but the drop brackets will handle most anything a nomarl person can throw at them, and for the price diff. i would go drop brackets (i am since im not rock crawling or to worried about havin a pre runner front sup.
Lifted97ranger compossed a axle guide for all axles, but i cant seem to find it right off hand, so i went to the rangerstation and borrowed their info but it explains all ranger, b2 and explorer axles and tells the codes and how to find it. Link is
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html
And word of caution, i changed axles in my 97 to a 8.8 in decemeber, i still had stock 97 14s on it and the hub on the brake drum was to big for the wheel to sit like it was suppose to so i borrowed my buddies 98 14s and they cleared fine, now o have 15s and have plenty of space.
also u have a pm
Lifted97ranger compossed a axle guide for all axles, but i cant seem to find it right off hand, so i went to the rangerstation and borrowed their info but it explains all ranger, b2 and explorer axles and tells the codes and how to find it. Link is
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html
And word of caution, i changed axles in my 97 to a 8.8 in decemeber, i still had stock 97 14s on it and the hub on the brake drum was to big for the wheel to sit like it was suppose to so i borrowed my buddies 98 14s and they cleared fine, now o have 15s and have plenty of space.
also u have a pm
Last edited by timpat92855; 09-02-2008 at 10:57 AM. Reason: forgot to mention some stuff
#35
The lowering shackles for a chevy will lift your ranger. Don't know why but they just bolt right up to the rear and replace your factory ones. Now if you have a 7.5 rear end (i dont know which rear ends came with what) just get a 31 spline fx4 8.8 rearend. You can get a 28 spline, but why not get the stronger unit?
#36
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would ordering pre mrunner fender help with clearance? just woundering
#37
Ok lift answers first. I beams will be stronger but the drop brackets will handle most anything a nomarl person can throw at them, and for the price diff. i would go drop brackets (i am since im not rock crawling or to worried about havin a pre runner front sup.
Lifted97ranger compossed a axle guide for all axles, but i cant seem to find it right off hand, so i went to the rangerstation and borrowed their info but it explains all ranger, b2 and explorer axles and tells the codes and how to find it. Link is
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html
And word of caution, i changed axles in my 97 to a 8.8 in decemeber, i still had stock 97 14s on it and the hub on the brake drum was to big for the wheel to sit like it was suppose to so i borrowed my buddies 98 14s and they cleared fine, now o have 15s and have plenty of space.
also u have a pm
Lifted97ranger compossed a axle guide for all axles, but i cant seem to find it right off hand, so i went to the rangerstation and borrowed their info but it explains all ranger, b2 and explorer axles and tells the codes and how to find it. Link is
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html
And word of caution, i changed axles in my 97 to a 8.8 in decemeber, i still had stock 97 14s on it and the hub on the brake drum was to big for the wheel to sit like it was suppose to so i borrowed my buddies 98 14s and they cleared fine, now o have 15s and have plenty of space.
also u have a pm
#38
The lowering shackles for a chevy will lift your ranger. Don't know why but they just bolt right up to the rear and replace your factory ones. Now if you have a 7.5 rear end (i dont know which rear ends came with what) just get a 31 spline fx4 8.8 rearend. You can get a 28 spline, but why not get the stronger unit?
i only found the 98 ranger that has stock 4.56 gear ( 8.8)
4.56 is better than 4.10... if i can get it? correct me if i am wrong
#39
#41
(Note 4.56 geared axles '99-up are 31-spline) thats on the bottom of the chart on the ranger axle, but i dont think it really is a true ratio or not. I know my tag is a R7 which is 4.10 LS, and r8 would be 4.56s ls but never seen one with that tag number.
another from the chart: FX4 Rangers 99-current with 4.10 or 4.56 axle ratios are built with 31-spline axles.
that sound wrong, but its whats on ranger station. I dont know, im just going by what they say..maybe someone who knows for sure can tune in.
another from the chart: FX4 Rangers 99-current with 4.10 or 4.56 axle ratios are built with 31-spline axles.
that sound wrong, but its whats on ranger station. I dont know, im just going by what they say..maybe someone who knows for sure can tune in.
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