NOS Question?
#51
12-09-2005
what do you guys think about that?
And I agree that a 35-50 wet shot is very tolerable on a stock 3.0L ranger. Just keep in mind to not over rev it while spraying and use premium octane. Another thing that IMO will allow for bigger shots is to ramp up the nitrous from a low-to-high volume. I'm spraying a 100hp shot on a stock 5.4L AND on top of 16psi too!! From what I've learned over the last year it's all doable w/o problems if the time is taken to understand what needs to happen at each step. It sure looks like you are trying to do that!
btw: The "purge" that NX and NOS require is what I disagree with. (That's why I say he is "mostly correct") Purging is not nessesary on the kit I have. (The only time is when the bottle is completely disconnected or you run out) You might want to contact Denny at racetested@yahoo.com and he can fill you in as to why. And... that means more nitrous being used to make power vs going into the air to make up for poorly designed kits.
btw2: I bought thier maximizer controller. Even though I'm not using it to it's full potential. It has some awsome abilities to accomidate a manual tranny and it can also ramp up/down the nitrous shot sizes. I spent the extra money so I could just swap the kit from one car to another w/o having to buy special parts each time .
Rich
#54
12-14-2005
Cody, The rule of thumb I like to use is 35% max power increase.
Brian,
In a perfect world I would ramp up the nitrous and lower my shift points about 300 rpms.
Ramping up the nitrous helps avoid wheel spin and sliping clutchs. Lower shift points are generally better because the torque curve is now peaking lower. (usually) And.. the harder you spin a motor the shorter it's life will be.
A cheap way would be to have an additional hand held switch. That way both the throttle would have to be WOT and you would have to be pushing the button. You could not push the button during first gear or what ever the situation is.
The setup I have actually has a computer that can do all this for me. All I have to do is program it (very easy on screen buttons), arm the system and go WOT. Although it's not cheap... it's very easy and does'nt require much attention to use.
Rich
Brian,
are there any special steps that need to be taken when using a nitrous kit on an auto tranny vs manual?
Ramping up the nitrous helps avoid wheel spin and sliping clutchs. Lower shift points are generally better because the torque curve is now peaking lower. (usually) And.. the harder you spin a motor the shorter it's life will be.
i have an auto... how can i control at which gears the nitrous activates? does that even matter?
The setup I have actually has a computer that can do all this for me. All I have to do is program it (very easy on screen buttons), arm the system and go WOT. Although it's not cheap... it's very easy and does'nt require much attention to use.
Rich
#55
12-14-2005
i sprayed on my 1999 4x4 4.0 ranger..i sprayed a 75 wet shot alot......and i went from a 17.4 to a 15.6.....i beat a hemi on my first time spraying and beat him......all i put in the truck was a conefilter and plugs and wires...also had a catback...........i also sprayed throw the shifts (i did not release the botton to shift i just kept it going)....i was going to spray a 100 shot on my truck but never got the chance to i sold the kit......from what i was told the stock block can hack a 100 once and a 75 like nothing
#56
12-15-2005
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,955
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From: NC
Originally Posted by D.
My current setup is a single stage that kicks in at 3900 ( ends at 5900 ) rpm via a MSD window switch and relay setup. It's a wet system ( I blew 2 manifolds with dry systems and wont ever try that route again ) .
I don't like juice and and Auto tranny as your tranny is programmed to shift at certain points/intervals where with a stick, you can keep it in the upper rpm's and stay on the juice till the rev limiter kicks in ( or the window switch cuts the juice off ).
If you do any offroading, Get a blower ( will produce bottom end torque more then juice ) . N2o is great for straight bursts and chasing down most imports.. But a blower is always on and in the mud.. easier to manage.
D.
I don't like juice and and Auto tranny as your tranny is programmed to shift at certain points/intervals where with a stick, you can keep it in the upper rpm's and stay on the juice till the rev limiter kicks in ( or the window switch cuts the juice off ).
If you do any offroading, Get a blower ( will produce bottom end torque more then juice ) . N2o is great for straight bursts and chasing down most imports.. But a blower is always on and in the mud.. easier to manage.
D.
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