My front suspension project
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Yeah I was going to make them straight at first, but had the clearance issue you mentioned. Really the only reason I made it so much was because it made it easier for me to make the bends and cuts in the correct locations. Due to the bender and my bandsaw, it was difficult to make the bends "flatter" and be able to have it fit, as I needed a "tail" on the end so the tube would clamp in the bender.
Sorry I'm not really sure how I can explain it. But I don't think it will harm anything having that much droop, and it seems to have clearance.
Sorry I'm not really sure how I can explain it. But I don't think it will harm anything having that much droop, and it seems to have clearance.
#9
What we are talking about is the relation between the pivot bushings on the upper control arm and the ball joint. for comparison, stock upper control arms on A-arm rangers are straight. On mine the ball joint is a few inches lower than the pivot bushings. this allows the suspension to have more down-travel (or droop).
With that being said, more droop does not necessarily mean more lift, but if your suspension can droop more, you can run a taller lift.
With that being said, more droop does not necessarily mean more lift, but if your suspension can droop more, you can run a taller lift.
#11
Here are some pics of both arms and the spindle in place. Neither of the arms are done. Still have a lot of bracing to do to the lower, making a a coil bucket, shock tabs, bumps, not to mention finishing boxing it in.
Last edited by desertrunner07; 01-12-2009 at 07:43 PM.
#14
Honestly I could not tell you right now. I need to gather up all my receipts, But I think I am looking at around $800 for parts and materials plus many hours. I am not going to be making any for other people until I can give mine some thorough testing. I don't want to put anyone on the road until I'm sure they are sturdy. Once I am finished and have time to test them I will be more than happy to build them for sale.
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