OEM Fog Light Switch Conversion Kit For Aux Lights (KY)
#1
OEM Fog Light Switch Conversion Kit For Aux Lights (KY)
Had a lot of interest in my triple fog switch bezel & how to get the OEM fog switches to operate aftermarket lights...
So, I made up a conversion kit.
I can do a basic kit with NO fog switch, no power cable/fuse holder OR I can do a complete kit WITH fog switch, power cable/fuse holder.
On to the pics:
You get the fog switch plug-in connector, a relay, 1 small fuse holder, wire taps & I label the wiring as to what goes where. FULLY ASSEMBLED AS SHOWN.
You will NEED 1 small fuse holder, power wire & fuse holder & an OEM fog switch.
New fog lights NOT included
You get everything you should need, except for your new fog lights.
Includes: Oem fog switch, wiring connector, relay, 2 small fuse holders, wire taps, crimp connector for power wire, 12ga power cable w/fuse holder & I still label the wiring as to what goes where. FULLY ASSEMBLED AS SHOWN.
I know what you're thinking.... that wiring connector is for a rear defrost switch, what gives??
I happened to pick that out of my box of parts first, so I made it to fit perfectly with a fog switch. I have some of both wiring connectors, they both work the same, one is black one is gray... no biggie.
The relay shown is a genuine FORD relay, if it's good enough for Ford, it's good enough for me.
The other wires should be plenty long enough to reach their respective locations for connections.
You'll just need to attach the power cable at your battery (fuse at the battery side), run it through your firewall (existing bushing or drill a hole & use the included grommet).
One crimp connection on the end of the power cable is needed, you'll probably want to cut off the excess power wire.
Two quick tap connectors for: the keyed turn on wire & the dash illumination wire.
A ground wire w/ring terminal just needs to be bolted to a firm, clean metal part of the body.
The actual kit you receive may or may not be the one pictured, when those sell I'll make more.
- - - -
Pricing:
Basic kit: $15.00 + Priority shipping ($5 small flat rate USPS box)
Complete Kit: $30.00 + Priority shipping ($5 small flat rate USPS box)
Free tech support if you get stumped along the way... there's only 5 wires you have to deal with...Very Simple.
I test every one several times during assembly & after completed to ensure everything works properly.
- - - -
Special deal!!!
Buy either kit & I'll do my fog switch bulb holder LED mod for just $5.00 for each bulb holder.
I'd appreciate it if you could send me your old fog switch bulb holder once your kit & LED mod arrives..
So, I made up a conversion kit.
I can do a basic kit with NO fog switch, no power cable/fuse holder OR I can do a complete kit WITH fog switch, power cable/fuse holder.
On to the pics:
You get the fog switch plug-in connector, a relay, 1 small fuse holder, wire taps & I label the wiring as to what goes where. FULLY ASSEMBLED AS SHOWN.
You will NEED 1 small fuse holder, power wire & fuse holder & an OEM fog switch.
New fog lights NOT included
You get everything you should need, except for your new fog lights.
Includes: Oem fog switch, wiring connector, relay, 2 small fuse holders, wire taps, crimp connector for power wire, 12ga power cable w/fuse holder & I still label the wiring as to what goes where. FULLY ASSEMBLED AS SHOWN.
I know what you're thinking.... that wiring connector is for a rear defrost switch, what gives??
I happened to pick that out of my box of parts first, so I made it to fit perfectly with a fog switch. I have some of both wiring connectors, they both work the same, one is black one is gray... no biggie.
The relay shown is a genuine FORD relay, if it's good enough for Ford, it's good enough for me.
The other wires should be plenty long enough to reach their respective locations for connections.
You'll just need to attach the power cable at your battery (fuse at the battery side), run it through your firewall (existing bushing or drill a hole & use the included grommet).
One crimp connection on the end of the power cable is needed, you'll probably want to cut off the excess power wire.
Two quick tap connectors for: the keyed turn on wire & the dash illumination wire.
A ground wire w/ring terminal just needs to be bolted to a firm, clean metal part of the body.
The actual kit you receive may or may not be the one pictured, when those sell I'll make more.
- - - -
Pricing:
Basic kit: $15.00 + Priority shipping ($5 small flat rate USPS box)
Complete Kit: $30.00 + Priority shipping ($5 small flat rate USPS box)
Free tech support if you get stumped along the way... there's only 5 wires you have to deal with...Very Simple.
I test every one several times during assembly & after completed to ensure everything works properly.
- - - -
Special deal!!!
Buy either kit & I'll do my fog switch bulb holder LED mod for just $5.00 for each bulb holder.
I'd appreciate it if you could send me your old fog switch bulb holder once your kit & LED mod arrives..
Last edited by buggman; 09-02-2010 at 01:06 AM.
#3
I knew somebody would notice that... didn't take long either. HA!
(sure you know this)
Both pigtails are the same except for a little plastic ridge on top... I take a chisel & remove the ridge = instant fog switch pigtail harness.
The relay/harness works with the defrost switch too... although it's just a momentary switch, it would be cool for someone to use it for an air horn button.
OR.... how about a parking brake wire bypass for in dash DVD players... probably need to switch the wiring on the relay around to ground.
(sure you know this)
Both pigtails are the same except for a little plastic ridge on top... I take a chisel & remove the ridge = instant fog switch pigtail harness.
The relay/harness works with the defrost switch too... although it's just a momentary switch, it would be cool for someone to use it for an air horn button.
OR.... how about a parking brake wire bypass for in dash DVD players... probably need to switch the wiring on the relay around to ground.
#5
I need to update a little info here folks,
You will still need to use the relay(s) that come with your lights.
Those relays should be mounted under the hood to keep the high current from passing through the firewall.
The "12v + to acc'y lights" wire coming from my harness should be ran through the firewall & connected to the PIN 86 of your new light relay(s).
I always overkill my wiring sizes & I didn't want anyone to misunderstand that they need to power their lights from my relay/harness.
It could be done, but you'll have a higher current wire to your lights running through the firewall & it's better to keep as few high current wires running through the firewall as possible.
Either way, I HIGHLY recommend running ANY wire through a proper grommet (included with my kit) or safely through a factory grommet in the firewall.
Wires WILL fray/short if you just drill a hole & pull it through bare metal.
You SHOULD use the relays that come with YOUR lights, mounted under the hood, powered/fused at the battery, grounded under the hood.
My relay in the cab is used to be able to use the OEM switch as a regular switch.
Also, I include fuse holders to place on connections made with your OEM wiring. It may be overkill again, but I'd rather use an extra fuse holder than have problems later on.
Hope this clears up any questions or confusion.
Thanks
You will still need to use the relay(s) that come with your lights.
Those relays should be mounted under the hood to keep the high current from passing through the firewall.
The "12v + to acc'y lights" wire coming from my harness should be ran through the firewall & connected to the PIN 86 of your new light relay(s).
I always overkill my wiring sizes & I didn't want anyone to misunderstand that they need to power their lights from my relay/harness.
It could be done, but you'll have a higher current wire to your lights running through the firewall & it's better to keep as few high current wires running through the firewall as possible.
Either way, I HIGHLY recommend running ANY wire through a proper grommet (included with my kit) or safely through a factory grommet in the firewall.
Wires WILL fray/short if you just drill a hole & pull it through bare metal.
You SHOULD use the relays that come with YOUR lights, mounted under the hood, powered/fused at the battery, grounded under the hood.
My relay in the cab is used to be able to use the OEM switch as a regular switch.
Also, I include fuse holders to place on connections made with your OEM wiring. It may be overkill again, but I'd rather use an extra fuse holder than have problems later on.
Hope this clears up any questions or confusion.
Thanks
#6
DISCLAIMER:
DISCLAIMER:
My custom OEM fog light wiring kit is designed to allow OEM fog light switches to be used to control aftermarket lights/accessories.
I do my best to explain the installation procedure & provide adequate information to the best of my ability.
PLEASE do not alter this wiring kit.
PLEASE follow the instructions.
PLEASE use the relays and/or fuses that come with your lights or accessories.
* If your lights or accessories did NOT come with relays and fuses, I STRONGLY RECOMMEND using proper relays and fuses to protect your electrical system & vehicle. *
There are LOTS of resources online for proper installation of relays & fuses.
I cannot be held responsible for improper installation resulting in personal injury or death, personal or property damage.
Using this harness is at the sole digression of the buyer & I can in no way be held liable for any damages or death resulting from its use or misuse.
I design & test every harness in my shop to ensure proper function.
Sorry for all that, but I don’t want someone to get hurt or burn up their vehicle due to misuse of this harness.
I don’t mean to be an A-hole, but I don’t want to get sued by somebody who mods my harness or doesn’t follow directions.
Aside from the info posted here, I’m in the process of writing a detailed instruction sheet to ship with each wiring harness kit.
Thanks
My custom OEM fog light wiring kit is designed to allow OEM fog light switches to be used to control aftermarket lights/accessories.
I do my best to explain the installation procedure & provide adequate information to the best of my ability.
PLEASE do not alter this wiring kit.
PLEASE follow the instructions.
PLEASE use the relays and/or fuses that come with your lights or accessories.
* If your lights or accessories did NOT come with relays and fuses, I STRONGLY RECOMMEND using proper relays and fuses to protect your electrical system & vehicle. *
There are LOTS of resources online for proper installation of relays & fuses.
I cannot be held responsible for improper installation resulting in personal injury or death, personal or property damage.
Using this harness is at the sole digression of the buyer & I can in no way be held liable for any damages or death resulting from its use or misuse.
I design & test every harness in my shop to ensure proper function.
Sorry for all that, but I don’t want someone to get hurt or burn up their vehicle due to misuse of this harness.
I don’t mean to be an A-hole, but I don’t want to get sued by somebody who mods my harness or doesn’t follow directions.
Aside from the info posted here, I’m in the process of writing a detailed instruction sheet to ship with each wiring harness kit.
Thanks
#8
I believe all the mounting brackets should have a slot for 2 switches too... if not let me know.
I should have a pic of the template I used @ my photobucket page.
#10
I'll see what I can come up with for ya.
You need a 4x4 bezel, don't you?
I forgot... what color dash/hvac/fog illumination do you have?
You need a 4x4 bezel, don't you?
I forgot... what color dash/hvac/fog illumination do you have?
#12
Little update:
Here's a pic of the OEM fog switch wiring connector:
The red/black wire here is the one that needs to be tapped into with the red/black wire from my wiring harness.
This gives the "light bulb" icon light power whenever the headlights/dash lights are on.
Also, here's a pic of the headlight switch wiring connector:
If your truck doesn't have the fog light wiring harness pre-installed, you can tap the red/black wire here as well.
Not pictured: The 4x4 switch.
It also has a red/black wire that can be tapped for dash illumination if you're unable to locate the other two.
Here's a pic of the OEM fog switch wiring connector:
The red/black wire here is the one that needs to be tapped into with the red/black wire from my wiring harness.
This gives the "light bulb" icon light power whenever the headlights/dash lights are on.
Also, here's a pic of the headlight switch wiring connector:
If your truck doesn't have the fog light wiring harness pre-installed, you can tap the red/black wire here as well.
Not pictured: The 4x4 switch.
It also has a red/black wire that can be tapped for dash illumination if you're unable to locate the other two.
#13
I thought I had an Explorer bezel with the 2 switch holes already in it...
Turns out it's a Ranger 4x4 bezel with the extra 12v outlet...
Still lookin' for ya though.
Turns out it's a Ranger 4x4 bezel with the extra 12v outlet...
Still lookin' for ya though.
#14
There are some bezels at my local pull-a-part from expo 4x4s that have the foglight and defroster buttons. i think they are $15 a piece, plus shipping to Missouri, and like $3 or $4 for my time and effort. so like $30 or maybe u have something of interest we can trade.
if you want, PM me.
if you want, PM me.
#16
yeah i have seen those at pull a part. the fog light, rear defroster, and traction control off buttons are all the same setup. the sockets are the same size. you will just need a foglight button to switch with the rear defroster switch. but besides that it will look the same.
#19
I have a couple bezels now, but they're all single switch 4x4's at this point.
Workin' on a deal for a whole bunch of parts... hopefully a few 4x4 bezels with 2 switch holes... saves a little work.
I'm trying to get caught up with some LED mods & Ford ovals & my 3x fog switch bezel mods are on the back burner for a little while.
Workin' on a deal for a whole bunch of parts... hopefully a few 4x4 bezels with 2 switch holes... saves a little work.
I'm trying to get caught up with some LED mods & Ford ovals & my 3x fog switch bezel mods are on the back burner for a little while.
#23
If you have 2 or 3 OEM fog switches, you can have each one with a different color LED
I've been wanting to add a defrost (momentary) switch to the LEFT side of the bezel in place of the cig lighter socket.
#24
See I thought of setting up my stock foglights with the bezel button and being completely stock style but honestly, I don't like my foglight switches being closer to my passenger than to me. Like WTF Ford. Why not put it in a socket next to the head light light ****? I should have installed mine there but I didn't want to put holes in my interior pieces.