Paint work.
#1
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Paint work.
So.. I stopped by the collision shop on the lot at work today and picked up a 1800rpm buffing machine, 4 different sets of pads, a bunch of wet-sandpaper ( 1200-1500grit ).
I'm going to knock-down the clearcoat and level it all.. My question is, how easy is it to burn the clearcoat with those buffing wheels? I've let the paint harden nfor 2 weeks hoping it will be able to take more abuse then when its softer.
I used Dupont Imron ( Hard stuff folks! ) with activators, 4:1 mixture without any tint in it at all.
I'm going to knock-down the clearcoat and level it all.. My question is, how easy is it to burn the clearcoat with those buffing wheels? I've let the paint harden nfor 2 weeks hoping it will be able to take more abuse then when its softer.
I used Dupont Imron ( Hard stuff folks! ) with activators, 4:1 mixture without any tint in it at all.
#4
#5
there is quite a few chemical washes you can use to strip the surface rust.. i cant not remember the names off hand when you stop by soon i have a few in the garage i could show you..
#6
So.. I stopped by the collision shop on the lot at work today and picked up a 1800rpm buffing machine, 4 different sets of pads, a bunch of wet-sandpaper ( 1200-1500grit ).
I'm going to knock-down the clearcoat and level it all.. My question is, how easy is it to burn the clearcoat with those buffing wheels? I've let the paint harden nfor 2 weeks hoping it will be able to take more abuse then when its softer.
I used Dupont Imron ( Hard stuff folks! ) with activators, 4:1 mixture without any tint in it at all.
I'm going to knock-down the clearcoat and level it all.. My question is, how easy is it to burn the clearcoat with those buffing wheels? I've let the paint harden nfor 2 weeks hoping it will be able to take more abuse then when its softer.
I used Dupont Imron ( Hard stuff folks! ) with activators, 4:1 mixture without any tint in it at all.
#7
A link that might...
Hey D. here's a link that might help you out some: www.houseofkolor.com . They have a few tech article and resourse in there that be of some use to you.
#8
As a former detailing business owner the most common mistake I see people make is during the buffing process. They use too much pressure. Here's another tip. STRIP YOUR WAX JOB BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING. Randy Cooke fixed my truck after I hit that deer in 05. His assisants didn't strip the wax job I had done recently. So pretty much they sanded ALL of the wax deep into the paint and a year later it's now cracking and peeling. All you need is a good cleaner that removes all wax, grease, dirt and it also remove a good portion of the clear coat. That will make it easier for you. When you buff let the buffer do the work and take your time. The Napa store here locally said that with the colors they have they recomend 8 parts paint, 4 parts thinner, and 1 part hardner. $350 bucks for the paint needed to do my truck. I chose a Chrysler color Big Orange. Acrylic Enamel. The guys there have already won several best paint within this area. My guess is that your paint won't hold up too well being that it's still somewhat fresh. Any good body shop will tell you to hold off at least 3 weeks before any buffing is done.
#11
So please go away. I offered D. a link and some tips based on some past exps in my life. Besides you don't know squat about bodywork so who are you to talk about my knowledge level. Have a nice day. Next time i'll report you for harrassment. D.'s right not here please.
#12
#14
Ok kool. I hope that link I gave you helped out in some techniques and answering questions that you may have with your paint situation. I'll be logging off for a while so I'll see you guys around later. I have got business to take care of and other things to do. So I'll see you around. Best of luck my friend.
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