Inner fender removal
#1
04-03-2017
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From: Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Inner fender removal
I have a 1998 4.0 4x4 ford ranger been in a wreck on drivers side fender and inner fender got pushed in the battery tray pushed in and broke the resavour on power steering pump I'm not worried about the pump shouldn't be a hard install I'm just wondering about the inner fender is it spot welded on or bolted on or maybe I might be able to reuse the inner fender after putting new fender on, I'm new to body work and I'm doing this on my own a little project I'm going to do little bit at a time
#2
04-06-2017
That piece is part of the inner-structure, and unfortunately it is spot welded on. You will need to remove your passenger side door to gain access to like 5 spot welds that need to be drilled out with a special spot weld removal drill bit. (I hope you have the hand crank manual windows) Be careful not to drill all the way though both layers off metal. Just drill though the top layer. Then when you need to do some plug welds with a TIG welder when you reinstall the new piece. (I would hire a welder if you're not familiar with welding.)
I'm assuming that you don't have full coverage insurance because that kind of damage would cause your Ranger to be totaled out.
Good Luck
I'm assuming that you don't have full coverage insurance because that kind of damage would cause your Ranger to be totaled out.
Good Luck
#3
04-06-2017
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Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Inner fender removal
That piece is part of the inner-structure, and unfortunately it is spot welded on. You will need to remove your passenger side door to gain access to like 5 spot welds that need to be drilled out with a special spot weld removal drill bit. (I hope you have the hand crank manual windows) Be careful not to drill all the way though both layers off metal. Just drill though the top layer. Then when you need to do some plug welds with a TIG welder when you reinstall the new piece. (I would hire a welder if you're not familiar with welding.)
I'm assuming that you don't have full coverage insurance because that kind of damage would cause your Ranger to be totaled out.
Good Luck
I'm assuming that you don't have full coverage insurance because that kind of damage would cause your Ranger to be totaled out.
Good Luck
Last edited by Brian52799@yahoo.com; 04-06-2017 at 04:40 PM. Reason: Forgot to type something
#4
04-06-2017
The reason for this is because the main electric connection is far up in the dash and you actually have to loosen up the whole dash and pull it forward 6 inches to unplug it.
I guess you could re-use that apron by beating out the damage with a hammer if you don't care how it looks.
If you want, you can e-mail me a picture of the damage at Fordfan444@yahoo.com.
Another thing I highly recommend is that you make sure the frame rails didn't get pushed over. You need to measure the distance between the fan shroud and fan blades on both sides and make sure they're the same.
#5
04-06-2017
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From: Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Ouch, I was afraid you were going to say that. It's a real PITA to remove a power door, but it can be done by removing the wiring harness from the door and fishing the wires through the hole where the rubber boot meets the door jamb.
The reason for this is because the main electric connection is far up in the dash and you actually have to loosen up the whole dash and pull it forward 6 inches to unplug it.
I guess you could re-use that apron by beating out the damage with a hammer if you don't care how it looks.
If you want, you can e-mail me a picture of the damage at Fordfan444@yahoo.com.
Another thing I highly recommend is that you make sure the frame rails didn't get pushed over. You need to measure the distance between the fan shroud and fan blades on both sides and make sure they're the same.
The reason for this is because the main electric connection is far up in the dash and you actually have to loosen up the whole dash and pull it forward 6 inches to unplug it.
I guess you could re-use that apron by beating out the damage with a hammer if you don't care how it looks.
If you want, you can e-mail me a picture of the damage at Fordfan444@yahoo.com.
Another thing I highly recommend is that you make sure the frame rails didn't get pushed over. You need to measure the distance between the fan shroud and fan blades on both sides and make sure they're the same.
#6
04-07-2017
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 4
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From: Lawrenceburg, Indiana
Ouch, I was afraid you were going to say that. It's a real PITA to remove a power door, but it can be done by removing the wiring harness from the door and fishing the wires through the hole where the rubber boot meets the door jamb.
The reason for this is because the main electric connection is far up in the dash and you actually have to loosen up the whole dash and pull it forward 6 inches to unplug it.
I guess you could re-use that apron by beating out the damage with a hammer if you don't care how it looks.
If you want, you can e-mail me a picture of the damage at Fordfan444@yahoo.com.
Another thing I highly recommend is that you make sure the frame rails didn't get pushed over. You need to measure the distance between the fan shroud and fan blades on both sides and make sure they're the same.
The reason for this is because the main electric connection is far up in the dash and you actually have to loosen up the whole dash and pull it forward 6 inches to unplug it.
I guess you could re-use that apron by beating out the damage with a hammer if you don't care how it looks.
If you want, you can e-mail me a picture of the damage at Fordfan444@yahoo.com.
Another thing I highly recommend is that you make sure the frame rails didn't get pushed over. You need to measure the distance between the fan shroud and fan blades on both sides and make sure they're the same.
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