Damge Down Under
#1
#2
Probably not much longer when it comes to the last photo, you can see the pin is almost worn through.
New mounts and bushings are available.
Looks like the mount may still be OK, but the bolt will have to be replaced too.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...g+bushing,7488
New mounts and bushings are available.
Looks like the mount may still be OK, but the bolt will have to be replaced too.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...g+bushing,7488
Last edited by Jeff R 1; 02-24-2019 at 04:11 PM.
#4
The bushing is holding the leaf spring on the front shackle and is held in place with a bolt.
The bolt in your photo is weakened where it's worn thin, so it can't be re-used.
What's missing is the rubber that the actual bushing is made from, it's pretty much gone.
Not so much the forward leaf spring, but the forward mount.
What's the rear shackle look like, that's usually the one that fails, fails, not the front ?
Sometimes the frame on the rear where the shackle rusts away too.
It's a big job to replace the bushing, the entire leaf spring (on each side if it's gone too) has to be removed so the outer steal part of the original bushing can be pressed out on a hydraulic press.
The press is also used to insert the new bushing.
Once the new bushings are pressed in and the springs are mounted with the new bolts, the truck is let standing in it's static position with nothing in the bed.
Then the bolts are tightened up as to correctly pre-load the rubber in the new bushings.
The bolt in your photo is weakened where it's worn thin, so it can't be re-used.
What's missing is the rubber that the actual bushing is made from, it's pretty much gone.
Not so much the forward leaf spring, but the forward mount.
What's the rear shackle look like, that's usually the one that fails, fails, not the front ?
Sometimes the frame on the rear where the shackle rusts away too.
It's a big job to replace the bushing, the entire leaf spring (on each side if it's gone too) has to be removed so the outer steal part of the original bushing can be pressed out on a hydraulic press.
The press is also used to insert the new bushing.
Once the new bushings are pressed in and the springs are mounted with the new bolts, the truck is let standing in it's static position with nothing in the bed.
Then the bolts are tightened up as to correctly pre-load the rubber in the new bushings.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; 02-24-2019 at 04:34 PM.
#9
Yes, that's the transmission support bar bracket, also called crossmember frame bracket
Drawing here: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528008d497.gif
Unfortunately the rubber bushings are rotted out and they are part of the crossmember not a separate part, so you would have to buy a whole new crossmember, but...........
If you are a resourceful person you may be able to make bushings
You will need new bolts and nuts as the ones on there will most likely have to be cut off
The brackets on the frame look OK, and should be fine to reuse
And there is also the option of a 1994 crossmember which bolted to the frame no bushings or hangers, but it is said there is more vibration transfer
Or see if you can find one with OK bushings at wrecking yard, but look closely, they use fork lifts to move cars around and crossmember is easily bent
Front leaf spring brackets are a little farther back on the frame
Drawing here: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528008d497.gif
Unfortunately the rubber bushings are rotted out and they are part of the crossmember not a separate part, so you would have to buy a whole new crossmember, but...........
If you are a resourceful person you may be able to make bushings
You will need new bolts and nuts as the ones on there will most likely have to be cut off
The brackets on the frame look OK, and should be fine to reuse
And there is also the option of a 1994 crossmember which bolted to the frame no bushings or hangers, but it is said there is more vibration transfer
Or see if you can find one with OK bushings at wrecking yard, but look closely, they use fork lifts to move cars around and crossmember is easily bent
Front leaf spring brackets are a little farther back on the frame
#11
Yes, that's the transmission support bar bracket, also called crossmember frame bracket
Drawing here: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528008d497.gif
Unfortunately the rubber bushings are rotted out and they are part of the crossmember not a separate part, so you would have to buy a whole new crossmember, but...........
If you are a resourceful person you may be able to make bushings
You will need new bolts and nuts as the ones on there will most likely have to be cut off
The brackets on the frame look OK, and should be fine to reuse
And there is also the option of a 1994 crossmember which bolted to the frame no bushings or hangers, but it is said there is more vibration transfer
Or see if you can find one with OK bushings at wrecking yard, but look closely, they use fork lifts to move cars around and crossmember is easily bent
Front leaf spring brackets are a little farther back on the frame
Drawing here: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528008d497.gif
Unfortunately the rubber bushings are rotted out and they are part of the crossmember not a separate part, so you would have to buy a whole new crossmember, but...........
If you are a resourceful person you may be able to make bushings
You will need new bolts and nuts as the ones on there will most likely have to be cut off
The brackets on the frame look OK, and should be fine to reuse
And there is also the option of a 1994 crossmember which bolted to the frame no bushings or hangers, but it is said there is more vibration transfer
Or see if you can find one with OK bushings at wrecking yard, but look closely, they use fork lifts to move cars around and crossmember is easily bent
Front leaf spring brackets are a little farther back on the frame
The second consideration is this: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ort-e9tz6a023e I'm not sure the this is actually the right part, but it looks like it is and on another forum it was stated it was used for such a purpose. It is also not stated if the bolts would come with it or not.
Any suggestions?
#12
Second selection is better because it isolates frame from vibration of engine/trans and driveline, like what you had before
The bolt needs to be correct diameter, it doesn't need to be super hard metal so hardware store bolts can be used
Nut needs to be nylok or double nut so it can't unscrew itself
Ford used pinch nut setup for these I believe, pinch nut is slightly out of round so can't unscrew itself
Use washers, the bigger the better, the brackets are rusty so you want to spread out the holding force of the bolt/nut
Of course the metal nuts and bolts can start to rust, so paint them after install , use primer then paint
The bolt needs to be correct diameter, it doesn't need to be super hard metal so hardware store bolts can be used
Nut needs to be nylok or double nut so it can't unscrew itself
Ford used pinch nut setup for these I believe, pinch nut is slightly out of round so can't unscrew itself
Use washers, the bigger the better, the brackets are rusty so you want to spread out the holding force of the bolt/nut
Of course the metal nuts and bolts can start to rust, so paint them after install , use primer then paint
#13
Has anyone played or come up with a mixed safari mash course of up top and down under?
These were my thoughts this evening:
Up 1-5 5 holes
Down 9-17 9 holes
Up 6-12 7 more
21 hole lay out.
Or, if you really wanted to stick with a total of 18:
Up 1-5 5 holes
Down 9-17 9 holes
Up 6, 9, 10, 11 4 holes
18 hole layout.
Or:
Up 5
Down 9-17
Up 6-12, 18
18 holes
Or:
Up 1
Down 1-10
Up 6-12
18 holes
These were my thoughts this evening:
Up 1-5 5 holes
Down 9-17 9 holes
Up 6-12 7 more
21 hole lay out.
Or, if you really wanted to stick with a total of 18:
Up 1-5 5 holes
Down 9-17 9 holes
Up 6, 9, 10, 11 4 holes
18 hole layout.
Or:
Up 5
Down 9-17
Up 6-12, 18
18 holes
Or:
Up 1
Down 1-10
Up 6-12
18 holes
What the heck does some kind of golf game have to do with a transmission cross member ?
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