How-To: Eliminate Pinging - Seafoam Motor Treatment
#1
How-To: Eliminate Pinging - Seafoam Motor Treatment
I tried out some “SeaFoam Motor Treatment” this weekend in an effort to reduce or eliminate my pinging. Now I absolutely SWEAR by this stuff. I had a very significant pinging problem in my 2.5 Lima and the SeaFoam treatment made it DISSAPEAR! I followed the directions on the can exactly, except I let it sit more than 5 minutes to soak in, and when I re-started it, I could honestly tell a difference in sound and NO MORE PINGING!
There are many uses for this product, so I now think it’s a great one to keep in the garage (far away from the water heater) for regular service and cleaning.
Some of the uses for SeaFoam:
It’s easy to use:
Purchase a can of “SeaFoam” at your local auto-parts store. I got mine at O’Reiley’s for $5.99/pint. It’s a white can that looks old-fashioned (like Marvel Mystery oil) and is mixed in with the Injection cleaners and other fuel additives.
There are a few different methods for applying this stuff (mixing with gas or oil, etc.) but for the most effective way to remove carbon from the combustion chamber and reduce/eliminate pinging follow these steps or the steps on the can (practically the same):
Remove a vacuum hose that connects to your upper intake manifold. For this I chose my brake booster line, because it's easily accessible and provides the perfect diameter hose to fit into the opening of the can. This line goes from your upper intake manifold to the brake booster. There is a large cylinder that the brake booster is mounted to on the driver’s side of the firewall. A vacuum tube (thick rubber hose) connects to a metal fitting on the intake manifold, and a plastic fitting on the brake booster. Squeeze the clamp and slide the hose off the plastic fitting with the ENGINE OFF (or if you’re quick on the draw, have the engine running, yank it off, and immediately cover it with your thumb to prevent the engine from stalling) Remove the lid to the SeaFoam and insert the vacuum tube slightly into the opening while removing your thumb. You’ll hear the suction and see the fluid being sucked into the tube. Let it suck 1/3 of the can down (I had to do intervals of a few seconds, then cover the hose with my thumb and let the engine re-gain a steady idle.)
The engine will increase RPM’s when the stuff is entering the combustion chamber. (it’s made of methanol and other highly combustible liquids)
After 1/3 or so of the can has been sucked in, turn off the ignition and let it sit for 10-30 minutes. Then start the engine, making sure the exhaust is WELL VENTILATED (very strong fumes, possibly lots of smoke), and let it reach a normal operating temperature. Drive it slowly around the block a few times without reaching too high RPM’s, and you’re officially decarbonized!
Sea Foam Sales Company
P.O. Box 5178
Hopkins, MN 55343-1178
Phone (952)938-4811
SUMMARIZED MATERIAL SAFETY DATA INFORMATION (summarized by thread author)
FOR SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT Part No. SF-16
================================================== ===========================
SECTION II-A HAZARDOUS COMPONENTS
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PALE OIL 40-60%
NAPHTHA 25-35%
IPA 10-20%
NONE OF THE COMPONENTS OF THIS PRODUCT ARE RECOGNIZED AS CARCINOGENIC.
================================================== ===========================
SECTION VI FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARDS
FLASH POINT : 55 DEGREES F. TCC
- EXTINGUISHING MEDIA - USE WATER FOG, FOAM, DRY CHEMICAL OR CARBON DIOXIDE.
================================================== ============================
SECTION X ADDITIONAL PRECAUTIONS
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Keep liquid and vapor away from heat, sparks, and flame. Extinguish pilot lights, cigarettes and turn off other possible sources of ignition prior to use and until vapors are gone. Surfaces that are sufficiently hot may ignite product in the absence of sparks or flame. Vapors may accumulate and travel to ignition sources distant from handling site. Keep containers closed when not in use. Use with adequate ventilation. Containers, even if empty, can contain explosive vapors or residues. Do not cut, drill, grind, or weld near containers after contact with product or container wash with soap and water before eating, drinking, smoking, or using toilet facilities.
================================================== =============================================
Most of the information contained herein was copied from the manufacturer's website. See here for more information.
SeaFoam Homepage
There are many uses for this product, so I now think it’s a great one to keep in the garage (far away from the water heater) for regular service and cleaning.
Some of the uses for SeaFoam:
- When your vehicle has a rough idle, hesitates, stalls, pings or has an after run problem – this is often due to carbon buildup.
- When your vehicle’s fuel injectors need cleaning – this is often due to residue left on injectors from poor burning fuels and contaminants.
- When moisture needs to be removed from fuels or an anti gel or de-icer is needed – these conditions are due to condensation in the fuel tank and extreme cold weather creating gas line freeze or diesel fuel gelling.
- When there is moisture detected in the oil – this problem is due mostly to poor ventilation and condensation. Sometimes, however, there is a bad head gasket, cracked head or block that must be replaced.
- When valve lifter noise is apparent or piston rings seem to be sticking – this is often due to dirty and gummed up oil passages, varnished lifters and buildup of gum, varnish and carbon in the piston ring areas.
- To help pass emissions tests – high emission numbers are usually caused by extreme carbon build up, dirty emission control items such as: pcv valve, egr valve, oxygen sensors or bad spark plugs and wires.
- When fuel stabilization and engine fogging is needed – fuels of today become stale in less than thirty days. Therefore, stabilization and engine fogging are needed when vehicles, lawnmowers, snow blowers, outboard motors, chainsaws, motorcycles, gas in cans and engines are put into storage.
It’s easy to use:
Purchase a can of “SeaFoam” at your local auto-parts store. I got mine at O’Reiley’s for $5.99/pint. It’s a white can that looks old-fashioned (like Marvel Mystery oil) and is mixed in with the Injection cleaners and other fuel additives.
There are a few different methods for applying this stuff (mixing with gas or oil, etc.) but for the most effective way to remove carbon from the combustion chamber and reduce/eliminate pinging follow these steps or the steps on the can (practically the same):
Remove a vacuum hose that connects to your upper intake manifold. For this I chose my brake booster line, because it's easily accessible and provides the perfect diameter hose to fit into the opening of the can. This line goes from your upper intake manifold to the brake booster. There is a large cylinder that the brake booster is mounted to on the driver’s side of the firewall. A vacuum tube (thick rubber hose) connects to a metal fitting on the intake manifold, and a plastic fitting on the brake booster. Squeeze the clamp and slide the hose off the plastic fitting with the ENGINE OFF (or if you’re quick on the draw, have the engine running, yank it off, and immediately cover it with your thumb to prevent the engine from stalling) Remove the lid to the SeaFoam and insert the vacuum tube slightly into the opening while removing your thumb. You’ll hear the suction and see the fluid being sucked into the tube. Let it suck 1/3 of the can down (I had to do intervals of a few seconds, then cover the hose with my thumb and let the engine re-gain a steady idle.)
The engine will increase RPM’s when the stuff is entering the combustion chamber. (it’s made of methanol and other highly combustible liquids)
After 1/3 or so of the can has been sucked in, turn off the ignition and let it sit for 10-30 minutes. Then start the engine, making sure the exhaust is WELL VENTILATED (very strong fumes, possibly lots of smoke), and let it reach a normal operating temperature. Drive it slowly around the block a few times without reaching too high RPM’s, and you’re officially decarbonized!
Sea Foam Sales Company
P.O. Box 5178
Hopkins, MN 55343-1178
Phone (952)938-4811
SUMMARIZED MATERIAL SAFETY DATA INFORMATION (summarized by thread author)
FOR SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT Part No. SF-16
================================================== ===========================
SECTION II-A HAZARDOUS COMPONENTS
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
PALE OIL 40-60%
NAPHTHA 25-35%
IPA 10-20%
NONE OF THE COMPONENTS OF THIS PRODUCT ARE RECOGNIZED AS CARCINOGENIC.
================================================== ===========================
SECTION VI FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARDS
FLASH POINT : 55 DEGREES F. TCC
- EXTINGUISHING MEDIA - USE WATER FOG, FOAM, DRY CHEMICAL OR CARBON DIOXIDE.
================================================== ============================
SECTION X ADDITIONAL PRECAUTIONS
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Keep liquid and vapor away from heat, sparks, and flame. Extinguish pilot lights, cigarettes and turn off other possible sources of ignition prior to use and until vapors are gone. Surfaces that are sufficiently hot may ignite product in the absence of sparks or flame. Vapors may accumulate and travel to ignition sources distant from handling site. Keep containers closed when not in use. Use with adequate ventilation. Containers, even if empty, can contain explosive vapors or residues. Do not cut, drill, grind, or weld near containers after contact with product or container wash with soap and water before eating, drinking, smoking, or using toilet facilities.
================================================== =============================================
Most of the information contained herein was copied from the manufacturer's website. See here for more information.
SeaFoam Homepage
Last edited by 98liftedranger; 12-02-2011 at 11:46 AM.
#2
#4
#6
Originally Posted by Brit-ranger
i did the treatment thie weekend,on start up no smoke, guess thats a good sign?
drives a little better.......i think
drives a little better.......i think
The startup period doesn't matter as much as longer running. If you didn't see much of any smoke, you either didn't suck enough treatment in, or your engine wasn't in such bad shape as you may have expected. Check the amount left in the can, if any. If there's more than half left, do the treatment again.
Also, the multiple times I've done this treatment to multiple vehicles I've learned two important points:
- The longer you can let it sit after "ingestion" of the SeaFoam, the better. I waited until 20 minutes with 3/4's of a can the last few times I used it, and saw lots more smoke.
- Make sure the engine is at normal operating temperature (middle of the water temp gauge) before using Seafoam.
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