Tips upon improving my brake pedal pressure.
#1
Join Date: May 2005
Location: MI
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Tips upon improving my brake pedal pressure.
When we put the superlift on last summer (1,500 miles ago), the front rotors and pads were replaced. The Pedal pressure was somewhat better, but could still be improved. Since then, it has gotten worse from normal wear and tear. This last saturday i replaced everything in my rear drums except the wheel cylinders because they were in working condition. I was hoping this would improve my pedal pressure, but it didnt do anything. I pretty much have to put the brake pedal down 50% of the way for the brakes to even start to grab, and 75% of the way to come to a complete stop. I realize with 35" tires braking is going to be worse, but it should not have much of a factor with the pedal pressure itself.
I have heard that maintenence shops such as tuffy, muffler man, etc have a machine that they can bleed the brakes with. I am thinking about trying it as i have never bled them.
Suggestions besides bleeding them?
I have heard that maintenence shops such as tuffy, muffler man, etc have a machine that they can bleed the brakes with. I am thinking about trying it as i have never bled them.
Suggestions besides bleeding them?
#3
#4
Mark bleeding brakes is easy man if you still havent done it in a few weeks i will just take a drive up man. and on the rear wheel cylinders how did you guys say they where fine, just checking you pulled the rubber boots back and check to make sure they werent wet or any rust or debre in them? just checking
#5
Biggest problem I have is rear brake adjustment. How are you adjusting them after you replace them or after time passes?
You can't rely on them to automatically adjust unless you do the back up and slam-on-the-brakes thing a bunch every so often.
When my rears are adjusted, my pedal travel is good.
I also have 35's.
You can't rely on them to automatically adjust unless you do the back up and slam-on-the-brakes thing a bunch every so often.
When my rears are adjusted, my pedal travel is good.
I also have 35's.
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#11
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havent seen this personaly zach but it could happen, most of the time when a master goes bad it will leak fluid out of the back where it meats the booster causing a low or soft pedal. sounds to me like he has a wheel cylinder frozen or his rear shoes are not adjusted right. maybe even on backwords.
#12
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When the rear brakes were done, i checked the wheel cylinders. I pushed the right 'post' in and the left post moved out as i pushed the right in. Dad said if they were froze, they wouldnt move at all.
I did adjust the starwheel accordingly to the rear drum, its about as tight as i want to go.
I did adjust the starwheel accordingly to the rear drum, its about as tight as i want to go.
#13
#17
#18
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
havent seen this personaly zach but it could happen, most of the time when a master goes bad it will leak fluid out of the back where it meats the booster causing a low or soft pedal. sounds to me like he has a wheel cylinder frozen or his rear shoes are not adjusted right. maybe even on backwords.
i know my dad had a similar issue with his f150, but idk how similar the systems are. 1998 F150 and 2001 Ranger
#19
you could also have a spring that came loose in the rear drums.....it would allow there to be no resistance on the (i have no clue what to call it...the peice that pushes the brakes against the drum)............drum brakes are pretty bad about poping springs off...
before i had my gears done, i had almost the same problem....i thought it was a brake issue with the big tires....my soon to be uncle in law who did my gears said i had a spring loose in one of my drums....when he put it all back together he fixed the spring and the brakes worked great from there on out....
before i had my gears done, i had almost the same problem....i thought it was a brake issue with the big tires....my soon to be uncle in law who did my gears said i had a spring loose in one of my drums....when he put it all back together he fixed the spring and the brakes worked great from there on out....
#20
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Originally Posted by zabeard
i still vote new calipers and wheel cylinders, but idk how much you want to spend. maybe even stainless steel brake lines front and rear??
so did you or didnt you bleed the brakes already?
so did you or didnt you bleed the brakes already?
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
you could also have a spring that came loose in the rear drums.....it would allow there to be no resistance on the (i have no clue what to call it...the peice that pushes the brakes against the drum)............drum brakes are pretty bad about poping springs off...
before i had my gears done, i had almost the same problem....i thought it was a brake issue with the big tires....my soon to be uncle in law who did my gears said i had a spring loose in one of my drums....when he put it all back together he fixed the spring and the brakes worked great from there on out....
before i had my gears done, i had almost the same problem....i thought it was a brake issue with the big tires....my soon to be uncle in law who did my gears said i had a spring loose in one of my drums....when he put it all back together he fixed the spring and the brakes worked great from there on out....
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#25
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Seeing as your in Bills area.. You might want to consider buying a case of beer, the same parts he did and go with rear discs. Theres a HUGE difference moving to rear discs. I used to have problems slowing down from speeds over 100, now its not an issue at all. The ABS system is on the differential, leaves the brakes open to modification :)