Shift Issues...2010 2.3 4x2 NO Drive, 3rd-4th Shift and OD light flash
#1
Shift Issues...2010 2.3 4x2 NO Drive, 3rd-4th Shift and OD light flash
Reading up on some similar posts.....
History- Former Work Truck now light duty driver- 226K
Regular Maintenance
Initial Symptom- Free Rev on Hiway Downshift then Hard Shift into Hi Gear- Maybe 20k Miles intermittent this way
Recent Symptoms-
Truck won't move in Drive
Will operate in Low and 2nd on shifter, Reverse works.
Long delay to shift into high on Highway or at speed with 5-8 second delay and light throttle
Will "Free Rev" if heavy throttle on acceleration
Sometimes get OD light flash.
OD button will toggle on and off and actuate OD.
OD light goes out if Key cycled.
Service Attempted-
I started with system Cleaner and had some improvement.....
Did fluid and filter and also adjusted bands to stock 2 turn with NO improvement?
Tightened intermediate band and created a locked trans- OOPS- not a 60's 727...seemsI made my own trans brake......LOL
Readjusted band and trans opearates same as before.
Please advise next step-
I have NOT scanned codes since I had an EGR code and didn't think Trans would give code for specific solenoid.
I've seen Posts that Valve Bodies Loosen and Solenoid Screens get clogged.
Sorry if my post is redundant.... This has been a great driver and want to give to my 16yo without major expense.
Thanks in Advance :-)
History- Former Work Truck now light duty driver- 226K
Regular Maintenance
Initial Symptom- Free Rev on Hiway Downshift then Hard Shift into Hi Gear- Maybe 20k Miles intermittent this way
Recent Symptoms-
Truck won't move in Drive
Will operate in Low and 2nd on shifter, Reverse works.
Long delay to shift into high on Highway or at speed with 5-8 second delay and light throttle
Will "Free Rev" if heavy throttle on acceleration
Sometimes get OD light flash.
OD button will toggle on and off and actuate OD.
OD light goes out if Key cycled.
Service Attempted-
I started with system Cleaner and had some improvement.....
Did fluid and filter and also adjusted bands to stock 2 turn with NO improvement?
Tightened intermediate band and created a locked trans- OOPS- not a 60's 727...seemsI made my own trans brake......LOL
Readjusted band and trans opearates same as before.
Please advise next step-
I have NOT scanned codes since I had an EGR code and didn't think Trans would give code for specific solenoid.
I've seen Posts that Valve Bodies Loosen and Solenoid Screens get clogged.
Sorry if my post is redundant.... This has been a great driver and want to give to my 16yo without major expense.
Thanks in Advance :-)
#2
Welcome to the forum
No forward movement in D but will start moving if shifted manually to 1st/2nd means the forward one-way clutch(sprag) is bad, which means full rebuild
No solenoids are used to get a vehicle moving, that's done mechanically by moving the shifter, solenoids are just used for smoother shifting to 2, 3, 4, and OD
Flashing OD light means there are most likely transmission codes, P0700 to P0803, seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...trouble_codes/
Yes, there are many codes for each solenoid, each code means something slightly different
Anytime an Automatic is over 200k miles and has a significant problem, yours does, you should plan on a rebuild, or swap with lower mile transmission
The clutches and bands last 250-300k, longer than manual trans clutches but they still wear out
https://www.car-part.com/ is a good place to search local wrecking yards for used parts
You have a 5R44E model trans, for used you can use a 2002 thru 2011 2.3l Ranger or Mazda B2300 automatic, not earlier, and not from a 3.0l or 4.0l engine
A rebuilt transmission should cost about $2,300, with 3 to 5 year warranty
Over 3 years(36 month) thats $64/month, cheap car payment for reliable transmission
Even if you paid to have it swapped at $3,600 that only $100/month over 3 years, not many reliable used cars out there for $100/month
Always replace torque converter and blow out transmission cooler lines, before putting in repaired, used or rebuilt transmission
People often think my car is only worth $6,000 it would be stupid to spend $3,000 on it
That's not what you are doing, you are comparing apples and oranges
First off a vehicle with a failing engine or transmission is not worth as much
Any vehicle repairs are about "cost to drive" not vehicle value for resale
Tires, brakes, gas, oil, ect...........are about "cost to drive" per month
Engine and transmission repair are the same thing
No forward movement in D but will start moving if shifted manually to 1st/2nd means the forward one-way clutch(sprag) is bad, which means full rebuild
No solenoids are used to get a vehicle moving, that's done mechanically by moving the shifter, solenoids are just used for smoother shifting to 2, 3, 4, and OD
Flashing OD light means there are most likely transmission codes, P0700 to P0803, seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...trouble_codes/
Yes, there are many codes for each solenoid, each code means something slightly different
Anytime an Automatic is over 200k miles and has a significant problem, yours does, you should plan on a rebuild, or swap with lower mile transmission
The clutches and bands last 250-300k, longer than manual trans clutches but they still wear out
https://www.car-part.com/ is a good place to search local wrecking yards for used parts
You have a 5R44E model trans, for used you can use a 2002 thru 2011 2.3l Ranger or Mazda B2300 automatic, not earlier, and not from a 3.0l or 4.0l engine
A rebuilt transmission should cost about $2,300, with 3 to 5 year warranty
Over 3 years(36 month) thats $64/month, cheap car payment for reliable transmission
Even if you paid to have it swapped at $3,600 that only $100/month over 3 years, not many reliable used cars out there for $100/month
Always replace torque converter and blow out transmission cooler lines, before putting in repaired, used or rebuilt transmission
People often think my car is only worth $6,000 it would be stupid to spend $3,000 on it
That's not what you are doing, you are comparing apples and oranges
First off a vehicle with a failing engine or transmission is not worth as much
Any vehicle repairs are about "cost to drive" not vehicle value for resale
Tires, brakes, gas, oil, ect...........are about "cost to drive" per month
Engine and transmission repair are the same thing
#4
#5
got ya.....
IS there a "Transmission Tag" ID Guide?
I'm a novice at these and there are a couple ads for reasonable uits they cant ID.....
there is a white Tag pinned to Passengers side behind the bell.
Also, Are you familiar with the 'Servo Fix" kits out of Wisconsin?
pretty cool idea in lieu of sleeving the bores. about $219
IS there a "Transmission Tag" ID Guide?
I'm a novice at these and there are a couple ads for reasonable uits they cant ID.....
there is a white Tag pinned to Passengers side behind the bell.
Also, Are you familiar with the 'Servo Fix" kits out of Wisconsin?
pretty cool idea in lieu of sleeving the bores. about $219
#6
I don't rebuild automatics so can't help with internals
Not sure what extra info would be on a transmission tag/number
You have a 5R44E with external ISS and OSS sensors, used in Rangers from 2001 thru 2011, you need one from a 2.3l Ranger or Mazda B2300
I am sure there were internal updates and upgrades over the years so the later models would be what to look at, also lower miles
Not sure what extra info would be on a transmission tag/number
You have a 5R44E with external ISS and OSS sensors, used in Rangers from 2001 thru 2011, you need one from a 2.3l Ranger or Mazda B2300
I am sure there were internal updates and upgrades over the years so the later models would be what to look at, also lower miles
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