Ring and Pinion self-install??
#1
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Ring and Pinion self-install??
ok guys. I need cold, hard facts and personal experiences. I have got a 99 ranger and I put in a 4.10 rear, while my front remains 3.73. Obviously, I am dying to get my 4x4 back, and 'complete' the job. How hard is it to set a Ring and pinion?? Really.
I have a fair amount of experience with autos and my dad has years of experience, he is very compitent. We have done all of the work on our cars from rebuilding a 351 in our 71 Mustang, changing my clutch, and changing the lifters in my old 3.0. We would try to knock it out in a weekend, and don't have the specific tools. We would have to buy them/borrow them.
I'm thinkin we can do it....if we follow the directions well. I am also assuming that I would have to pay the $100 and get the master install kit, correct, or could i reuse bearings and shims? I think not. Also, I heard something about pressing the bearing on? or needing to get something 'pressed' on. What is that?
Thanks guys.
Tony
I have a fair amount of experience with autos and my dad has years of experience, he is very compitent. We have done all of the work on our cars from rebuilding a 351 in our 71 Mustang, changing my clutch, and changing the lifters in my old 3.0. We would try to knock it out in a weekend, and don't have the specific tools. We would have to buy them/borrow them.
I'm thinkin we can do it....if we follow the directions well. I am also assuming that I would have to pay the $100 and get the master install kit, correct, or could i reuse bearings and shims? I think not. Also, I heard something about pressing the bearing on? or needing to get something 'pressed' on. What is that?
Thanks guys.
Tony
#2
Yeah what you need to do is go to a shop that can press the bearings on for you, basically its a machine that will push the barings on and off which would ruin them if you tried with a hammer (and would also be hard as roughly 10,000 pounds are pushing them on) if you can find someone to do that, its really no problem at all.
#4
You may be able to rig up your own press with a hydraulic jack, or you can pick one up for about $100 I think. I've been looking at the same thing, and several people have told me just to use a hammer and a brass drift. A deadblow hammer would be a good idea to use also.
And I wish you would have said something two weeks ago, I just got rid of a set of 4.10 front gears.
And I wish you would have said something two weeks ago, I just got rid of a set of 4.10 front gears.
#6
http://macamar.com/sitefiles/ford-88-regear/index.htm
http://fordtruckworld.tenmagazines.c...aid=1992&sid=2
Should give you a basic idea of what's involved.
http://fordtruckworld.tenmagazines.c...aid=1992&sid=2
Should give you a basic idea of what's involved.
#7
It's for an 8.8 rear -- but still some of the experience might be useful:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=6064
It's my experience with rebuilding the rear, including some negative results I ended up with by taking shortcuts, lol.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=6064
It's my experience with rebuilding the rear, including some negative results I ended up with by taking shortcuts, lol.
#8
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/te...sta/Gear_Setup
I've read over the article a couple times. Never actually done anything with setting my own gears up but figured it might help.
I've read over the article a couple times. Never actually done anything with setting my own gears up but figured it might help.
#9
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#10
it does not use C clips.
It has a clip of some type that stays on the CV shaft that allows to clip in the diff.
you know you can drop the diff without disassemble of the whole front end right? i have discussed it several times in several threads but i can do it again.
first jack the truck up and pull both tires.
un bolt the bottom of the shocks on both sides.
on the passenger side you need to take the caliper loose.
both sides pop the upper ball joint loose.
pop the CVs loose from the diff. put a pry bar or screw driver inbetween the diff and the CV they will pop loose when you pry them. (you dont need to loosen them from the hub. you can leave them in place.
the passenger side CV will slide all the way out and you can swing that out of your way. for it to slide out you need to disconnect that intermediate(short) shaft from the CV.
unbolt the driveshaft from the yoke
now unbolt the diff from the 3 locations on the frame
you will have to bench press the diff and move it around while the other person slides the drivers side CV out of the diff. now you can swing the diff out and change the gears.
remember put everything back in the way it came out same direction and all.
i heard you can freeze the inner bearing race which will allow the bearing to slide on the new diff without the press. thing is the shims go on the inside of the bearing so you might end up pulling the bearings on and off several times until it is set right.
here are some pics.
It has a clip of some type that stays on the CV shaft that allows to clip in the diff.
you know you can drop the diff without disassemble of the whole front end right? i have discussed it several times in several threads but i can do it again.
first jack the truck up and pull both tires.
un bolt the bottom of the shocks on both sides.
on the passenger side you need to take the caliper loose.
both sides pop the upper ball joint loose.
pop the CVs loose from the diff. put a pry bar or screw driver inbetween the diff and the CV they will pop loose when you pry them. (you dont need to loosen them from the hub. you can leave them in place.
the passenger side CV will slide all the way out and you can swing that out of your way. for it to slide out you need to disconnect that intermediate(short) shaft from the CV.
unbolt the driveshaft from the yoke
now unbolt the diff from the 3 locations on the frame
you will have to bench press the diff and move it around while the other person slides the drivers side CV out of the diff. now you can swing the diff out and change the gears.
remember put everything back in the way it came out same direction and all.
i heard you can freeze the inner bearing race which will allow the bearing to slide on the new diff without the press. thing is the shims go on the inside of the bearing so you might end up pulling the bearings on and off several times until it is set right.
here are some pics.
#11
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Thanks for all of the input guys. i think if this wasn't my DD I would try it myself; it would be cool to do since it seems like hardly anyone does this on there own. But, with work over the summer, college now, and not being able to give the truck up for any time to fix it, it sounds like I've got to fork over the money to let someone else do it. I would just let it sit, but I found a guy who will do it for $288 in labor, so I think I will leave it with him one day soon. Thanks for all of the great info... I will use it someday in the future when I have a trail rig and I have some more time.
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