Questions about Lockers, limited slips and the sort...
#1
Questions about Lockers, limited slips and the sort...
Well after a few trips out wheeling, and a recent snow storm, i'm thinking in the future i'd like to upgrade my rear limited slip differential... but i'm not sure what to get?
I want something that will be fine on the street but really lock up when it gets slippery or muddy... would a Trac-Lok be what i'm after?
-also further into the future i'd like to have an air locker up front. is this possible? Something i can engage or completely disengage when needed.
Does anyone here have anything like this?
Anyway, if you guys can share some know how with me, that would be great!
I want something that will be fine on the street but really lock up when it gets slippery or muddy... would a Trac-Lok be what i'm after?
-also further into the future i'd like to have an air locker up front. is this possible? Something i can engage or completely disengage when needed.
Does anyone here have anything like this?
Anyway, if you guys can share some know how with me, that would be great!
#5
#6
i've got a torsen in the rear though =]
I had to change over the hub/bearing assemblies to the 98-00 PVH style, buy the avm manual hubs, buy the 98-00 half shaft/cv's, and install it. Well, I had a shop install mine when they did the new front diff w/4.56's and locker.
Wasn't too big of a deal considering snapped a half shaft, the other with a bad looking cv, and one of my hub assemblies was on it's way out. The stuff needed replacing anyhow.
If you're wondering....
It cost me $430 for EACH new CV/Halfshaft assembly from the dealer(2), $60 for EACH new Timken Hub assembly(2), and I believe the pair of AVM's were $60 off ebay, NIB.
#7
#9
You don't need manual hubs to run the aussie locker. Its only a preference if you want them or not.
BTW right now the only traction devices available for our front diffs are the aussie, lock-rite, and no-slip. Thats it, there is no torsen yet and there are no limited slips available.
BTW right now the only traction devices available for our front diffs are the aussie, lock-rite, and no-slip. Thats it, there is no torsen yet and there are no limited slips available.
Yeah and don't expect a torsen unit for the front ends unless Jeep guys need/want it.
I called up all the places Ranger Rick from ORR gave me and they pretty much laughed when I asked them about it.
#10
The locker is completely invisible in 2wd, but you definitely know its there when your in 4wd, it does make it harder to turn.
Did it make any difference on your cv shafts since you can't use the RCD spacers on them anymore? I know that was a problem for 98-00 rangers running the RCD. Just curious if you've had any problems or not.
Yup, I just put them in on account of the cv angle with the rcd and now the 4.56's.
Yeah and don't expect a torsen unit for the front ends unless Jeep guys need/want it.
I called up all the places Ranger Rick from ORR gave me and they pretty much laughed when I asked them about it.
Yeah and don't expect a torsen unit for the front ends unless Jeep guys need/want it.
I called up all the places Ranger Rick from ORR gave me and they pretty much laughed when I asked them about it.
#11
#12
I called RCD about that spacer and they keep f*cking me around. I'm getting pissed.
#13
that's another reason i like the manual hubs, i can just leave one unlocked and it'd act just like stock
#14
so 860 buck just for the CVs?...wow....I think a set out of the junk yard is more in my price range. So all I would need to convert to manuals is...CV shafts,hub assembly,and AMVs right. Can I also get the hub assembly out of the junk yard? I cant picture what it looks like.
#15
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i ran my front locker, in the snow, in 4wd, w/o issue all winter. its different, but not anything unbearable, and definitely worth it IMO.
there is a part number floating around EF for a detroit true-trac that supposedly fits the SLA D35. the true-trac is similar in design to a torsen. here it is on summit....
#16
so 860 buck just for the CVs?...wow....I think a set out of the junk yard is more in my price range. So all I would need to convert to manuals is...CV shafts,hub assembly,and AMVs right. Can I also get the hub assembly out of the junk yard? I cant picture what it looks like.
Yeah I bought a used set of halfshafts/cvs from rngprerunner but I figured I'd keep em for spares and just put a new set in there while I was replacing the entire front end anyhow.
I couldn't believe the price either when I called in the order. Actually one was $7 less because it's like 6" shorter. haha
AVM hubs, sometimes they are branded under the name rugged ridge or um...i forgot the other one. same thing, different sticker on the outside.
Yeah, I looked them up again and they Hub/Bearing assemblies were $100/peice. Timkens are the best and guaranteed for life though.
#17
Powertrax Lockrite
I've installed a powertrax in the rear on a former limited slip 4:10 - 8.8. I do lots of around the farm pulling and driving in not to friendly dirt/mud etc. Original thought was to put a locker in the front but diamond did not recommend it and more or less said to try the lockrite first in the rear. Gotta admit there are no instances that I could not get it out that the front would have made any difference. The other thing you have to be aware of is that it changes the way the truck reacts to power, they give you some instructions on use, and what to be cautious of once installed. If you drive on ice it is an experience you will not soon forget...you gotta be in 4 wheel or you will loose it.
Also, if you do mostly highway with your truck, they say not to put a locker in the front, not certain why but think the bind on the drive train is prone to break it at its weak points. IN my case my auto hubs at times would not release, I hate dragging axles when on the highway. Other than the noise or vibration there isn't any indication on my 99 that says your hub is engaged..I hate to think of what kind of damage that would ensue if that were to happen with a locker in the front installed and active. I have installed manual locks since this happened to me several times.
Now just to clarify, I am not a recreational parts installer, it has to have purpose and function to improve use not looks or so I can say I have it installed. In my case I do not have to go lookin' for a need to use my 4x4, it stays locked most of the time. Even at that the tractor can always pull mine out when I get in to deep. That keeps me from doing the front locker to mine, so far....
Also, if you do mostly highway with your truck, they say not to put a locker in the front, not certain why but think the bind on the drive train is prone to break it at its weak points. IN my case my auto hubs at times would not release, I hate dragging axles when on the highway. Other than the noise or vibration there isn't any indication on my 99 that says your hub is engaged..I hate to think of what kind of damage that would ensue if that were to happen with a locker in the front installed and active. I have installed manual locks since this happened to me several times.
Now just to clarify, I am not a recreational parts installer, it has to have purpose and function to improve use not looks or so I can say I have it installed. In my case I do not have to go lookin' for a need to use my 4x4, it stays locked most of the time. Even at that the tractor can always pull mine out when I get in to deep. That keeps me from doing the front locker to mine, so far....
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