Oil & Filter match?
#3
Synthetic oil filters mean that the filter medium is made from synthetic materials, rather than pleated paper.
While they may offer better protection, it is not necessary to use a synthetic filter with synthetic oil.
Synthetics were design to allow oil changes at intervals of up to 10,000 miles. Personally, there is no way I would wait that long for oil changes, even on new vehicle.
As Gumpaw said, use a quality filter and quality oil.
While they may offer better protection, it is not necessary to use a synthetic filter with synthetic oil.
Synthetics were design to allow oil changes at intervals of up to 10,000 miles. Personally, there is no way I would wait that long for oil changes, even on new vehicle.
As Gumpaw said, use a quality filter and quality oil.
#4
Thanks Guys, I appreciate the input!
I decided on a Motorcraft " FL910S filter and 5w20 Synthetic Blend oil.
I would have liked to go all Synth but the motor has 100K on the clock. I do mostly town driving and not very much of that to speak of.
If I were on the road I'd put the 5w30 in it at least, as the motor is all aluminum and probably all Synthetic oil as it doesn't break down like dino oil does.
I decided on a Motorcraft " FL910S filter and 5w20 Synthetic Blend oil.
I would have liked to go all Synth but the motor has 100K on the clock. I do mostly town driving and not very much of that to speak of.
If I were on the road I'd put the 5w30 in it at least, as the motor is all aluminum and probably all Synthetic oil as it doesn't break down like dino oil does.
#6
For this old reliable 2001 Ford with original v6~4.0~SOHC & 237k miles, my choice is
0w30~FullSyn each spring or 0w20~FullSyn each autumn, & K&N#hp2011 filter with M22*1.5 threads.
As long as the oil brand has API+SAE+ILSAC approvals it's acceptable.
Logic for thinner 0w30\0w20 instead of FactoryOE 5w30: keep those notorious OilPressurized TimingTensioners well lubed during cold starts & warm up.
Logic for K&N#hp2011 instead of FactoryOE Ford#fL820s: the K&N is rated higher GPM, lower ByPassPSI, comparable volume & is easier to get On\Off.
I stay away from the Wix\SuperTech oil filters as I've not found any published flow & pressure ratings (what are they hiding?); their air filters are OK.
My write up & more info at http://2001fordexplorersporttrac.fan...hange%2BFilter
Hope this helps.
D
0w30~FullSyn each spring or 0w20~FullSyn each autumn, & K&N#hp2011 filter with M22*1.5 threads.
As long as the oil brand has API+SAE+ILSAC approvals it's acceptable.
Logic for thinner 0w30\0w20 instead of FactoryOE 5w30: keep those notorious OilPressurized TimingTensioners well lubed during cold starts & warm up.
Logic for K&N#hp2011 instead of FactoryOE Ford#fL820s: the K&N is rated higher GPM, lower ByPassPSI, comparable volume & is easier to get On\Off.
I stay away from the Wix\SuperTech oil filters as I've not found any published flow & pressure ratings (what are they hiding?); their air filters are OK.
My write up & more info at http://2001fordexplorersporttrac.fan...hange%2BFilter
Hope this helps.
D
Last edited by DILLARD000; 08-13-2020 at 02:58 AM.
#7
#9
Oil Filters with M22*1.5 SpinOnThreads are typical on V6~4.0L~SOHC engines, Cologne built ~2000May18 & after; FordMotorCraft#fL820s filters are M22*1.5.
This english~metric transition was\is a source of confusion for model year 2001 owners\mechanics.
D
Last edited by DILLARD000; 08-17-2020 at 01:17 PM.
#11
Per your profile, you've got a 2005 Ranger 4.0L 4x4, likely with a V6~4.0L~SOHC engine subassembly made in Cologne Germany.
Confirm this on the factory labels: 1 on the drivers door frame, 1 on the left engine valve cover, 1 over the radiator.
Auto or manual transmission? Metal tags on the differentials will have those specs.
There are several VIN lookup websites that will tell you exactly what your truck was equipped with from the factory.
All above assumes no major modifications by you or previous owners.
D
Confirm this on the factory labels: 1 on the drivers door frame, 1 on the left engine valve cover, 1 over the radiator.
Auto or manual transmission? Metal tags on the differentials will have those specs.
There are several VIN lookup websites that will tell you exactly what your truck was equipped with from the factory.
All above assumes no major modifications by you or previous owners.
D
#12
5R55E sporting it's first pan drop with filter.
First I've heard of left valve cover label....more thanks.
I've done my share of VIN look-ups and I, for one, am glad my Ranger isn't called an "R45".
Any engine ID via VIN I've ever done never has gone deeper than size-name. In the '70's I recall my Dad's 1970 Mercury Monterey being specified with a Windsor built 400-2V (oink-oink).
My rear diff tag has an "L". Been a while since I read it. (8.8", 4.11).
First I've heard of left valve cover label....more thanks.
I've done my share of VIN look-ups and I, for one, am glad my Ranger isn't called an "R45".
Any engine ID via VIN I've ever done never has gone deeper than size-name. In the '70's I recall my Dad's 1970 Mercury Monterey being specified with a Windsor built 400-2V (oink-oink).
My rear diff tag has an "L". Been a while since I read it. (8.8", 4.11).
The following users liked this post:
DILLARD000 (08-20-2020)
#13
I have 252K miles on my Ranger and the engine still runs like new and uses no more oil than it did when new. I have started changing the oil at 15,000 miles because I don't put as many miles on it each year since I have semi-retired. I think oil can degrade with age too.
#14
Gotta cry about "what might've been" re oil.
The original owner of my '05 used a nearby lube shop exclusively.
To his credit, the oil never reached the 3,000 mile mark AND was never in use over a year. Good. He always bought the basic service.
I bought the truck midway through an OCI. In 6 weeks I utilized the remaining 1,500 miles. All the while the truck ran smoothly.
Its 16th oil change was with Castrol 0W-30 and a Fram Ultra and I swear you couldn't hear the engine idle. You still can't.
I can only imagine how better oil could've pampered my engine those 15 years.
The original owner of my '05 used a nearby lube shop exclusively.
To his credit, the oil never reached the 3,000 mile mark AND was never in use over a year. Good. He always bought the basic service.
I bought the truck midway through an OCI. In 6 weeks I utilized the remaining 1,500 miles. All the while the truck ran smoothly.
Its 16th oil change was with Castrol 0W-30 and a Fram Ultra and I swear you couldn't hear the engine idle. You still can't.
I can only imagine how better oil could've pampered my engine those 15 years.
The following users liked this post:
DILLARD000 (08-20-2020)
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