Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

the infamous clunk

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  #1  
Old 05-18-2005
airplaneman00's Avatar
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From: houston,tx
the infamous clunk

i have a 1999 ford ranger 4x4. it is foing the clunk thing whenever i am going from a stop. and coming to a stop. it has been happening for sometime now. and has gotten extremely bad and annoying. i have asked many people about this. and novody seems to know exactly how to fix it. can someone please help. i hear there are service bulletins out for this. but every website i et on, wants me to pay to read them. let me know if amyone can help. thanks
steve
airplaneman00@yahoo.com
 
  #2  
Old 05-18-2005
Sad_Savant's Avatar
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From: Shelbyville, Kentucky
FORD: 1998-2005 Ranger


This article supersedes TSB 03-26-2 to update the vehicle model years and service procedure.

ISSUE:
Some Ranger 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency thump type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop and/or when coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration, creating a stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip yoke splines.

ACTION:
A new type of grease is available which will greatly reduce the sticking/binding in the slip yoke during acceleration and deceleration. To service, apply the new grease to the rear driveshaft slip yoke splines. Refer to the following Service Procedure.

NOTE: OTHER DRIVELINE NOISE CONDITIONS WILL NOT BE CORRECTED WITH THIS PROCEDURE. REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE RANGER WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR OF ENGAGEMENT CLUNK, TIP-IN/OUT CLUNK OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT CLUNK CONDITIONS.



SERVICE PROCEDURE

DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL

Index (mark) the rear driveshaft to the rear pinion flange and the front of the driveshaft to the transfer case flange.
Remove the rear driveshaft.
SLIP YOKE DISASSEMBLY

CAUTION: DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, CLAMP THE DRIVESHAFT IN THE JAWS OF A VISE OR SIMILAR HOLDING FIXTURE. DENTING OR A FRACTURE CAN RESULT, CAUSING DRIVESHAFT FAILURE DURING VEHICLE OPERATION.



Place the driveshaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube.
Mark the driveshaft and slip yoke on both sides of the boot. Mark the location of the clamp crimps so the new clamps can be installed in the same location (Figure 1).


Figure 1 - Article 04-23-7


Cut and discard the slip yoke boot clamps.
Remove the slip yoke from the driveshaft.
Thoroughly clean the boot making sure to remove all of the old grease and dirt. Inspect the boot for damage.
Inspect the lubricant on the driveshaft splines and in the driveshaft slip yoke for contamination. If contaminated, inspect the driveshaft splines and slip yoke for wear.
Using a stiff NON-METALLIC brush and a suitable solvent, thoroughly clean all the old grease out of the splines on the slip yoke and the driveshaft.
Use compressed air to completely dry both spline areas.
ASSEMBLY

Install the slip yoke boot on the driveshaft (small opening end first).
Install and crimp the small slip yoke boot clamp using a keystone clamp installer (SST 211-002).
Pull the boot toward the driveshaft to expose the splines. Completely coat all slip yoke and driveshaft spline surfaces with the grease supplied in the kit.
Position the large slip yoke boot clamp on the boot (DO NOT CRIMP).
Align the index marks and install the slip yoke on the driveshaft.
Set boot free length as follows:
Remove any excess grease from the slip yoke boot and driveshaft slip yoke surfaces.
Position the slip yoke boot in the slip yoke boot groove.
Set the boot length to 3" (76 mm) by sliding the slip yoke. Measure between the inner side of the clamps as shown in (Figure 2).
Bleed the air from the slip yoke boot using a screwdriver as shown in (Figure 2).
Crimp the large slip yoke boot clamp using SST 211-002.


Figure 2 - Article 04-23-7


INSTALL DRIVESHAFT

Align the driveshaft front index mark with the mark on the transfer case flange and install the driveshaft. Torque the bolts to 82 lb-ft (111 N-m).
Align driveshaft rear flange index mark with the mark on the pinion flange and install the driveshaft. Torque the bolts to 83 lb-ft (112 N-m).

PART NUMBER PART NAME
F87Z-4K277-AA Drive Shaft Slip Yoke Kit (Steel Shaft)
4L5Z-4K277-AA Drive Shaft Slip Yoke Kit (Aluminum Shaft)


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
042307A Apply New Grease To The Rear Driveshaft Slip Yoke Splines 0.7 Hr.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
4K277 41

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.
 
  #3  
Old 05-18-2005
V8 Level II's Avatar
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The special Ford grease does reduce or eliminate the bump for awhile but it WILL come back. You can probably get Ford to buy it once or twice during the warranty period - after that, you're on your own. The real fix is a set of inexpensive James Duff traction bars that help reduce the spring windup.

Even though the TSB says it is for 4x4 supercabs only, you can experience the sticking slip splines on any Ranger. It is usually more noticeable on raised suspension models like 4x4's, Edges and Trailheads, particularly with manual transmissions.
 
  #4  
Old 05-18-2005
Sad_Savant's Avatar
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From: Shelbyville, Kentucky
Originally Posted by rwenzing
The special Ford grease does reduce or eliminate the bump for awhile but it WILL come back. You can probably get Ford to buy it once or twice during the warranty period - after that, you're on your own. The real fix is a set of inexpensive James Duff traction bars that help reduce the spring windup.

Even though the TSB says it is for 4x4 supercabs only, you can experience the sticking slip splines on any Ranger. It is usually more noticeable on raised suspension models like 4x4's, Edges and Trailheads, particularly with manual transmissions.



the trac bars are an excellent fix for this problem. You should also look at your driveshaft to see if you have a steel two piece driveshaft or an aluminum one piece. If you have the two piece take it to the dealership to have them replace it.
 
  #5  
Old 05-18-2005
FoMoCoFiddy's Avatar
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From: Smackdownville Tx
Seeing your a 4x4 , what i gonna say prob wouldnt help, but i took my lift blocks out, and it went away, maybe lift the rear with no blocks?

Just a suggestion. Might not work for you.
 
  #6  
Old 05-19-2005
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From: Somewhere, XYZ
OT: Has anybody heard anything more about Duff re-designing their traction bars? I've been on the edge of ordering a set of these for a while now.. but heard they were redoing them to work w/ later model trucks. Somebody here was in contact w/ them.. Any news?
 
  #7  
Old 05-19-2005
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Originally Posted by NHBubba
OT: Has anybody heard anything more about Duff re-designing their traction bars? I've been on the edge of ordering a set of these for a while now.. but heard they were redoing them to work w/ later model trucks. Somebody here was in contact w/ them.. Any news?
Even if they do update them for most current Rangers, you will probably still have to mod them to fit the larger diameter 31-spline axle on your Level II.
 
  #8  
Old 05-19-2005
NHBubba_Revisited's Avatar
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From: Somewhere, XYZ
I heard they were shortening the bracket, like you did, to prevent hitting the underside of the bed/wheel well. I figured having one of the two modifications needed done before I got the brackets would be worth waiting.. Working on the truck is nicer later in the summer anyhow..
 
  #9  
Old 12-13-2010
policefan's Avatar
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From: st clair shores
I have the same truck and with the same issue i found that greasing the slip yoke took care of the problem try that and hopefully it helps.
 
  #10  
Old 12-13-2010
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From: Central, IL.
Originally Posted by policefan
I have the same truck and with the same issue i found that greasing the slip yoke took care of the problem try that and hopefully it helps.
Dude, look at the date of the last post.



GB :)
 
  #11  
Old 12-13-2010
04RangerDave's Avatar
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From: RI
noob
 
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