how hard is changing the transmission fluid?
#1
how hard is changing the transmission fluid?
I was thinking about doing myself but this is all I have for tools:
-basic 123 toolkit w' sockets, wrenches, pliers, bit drivers, short extensions
-55 piece toolkit w' pliers/cutteres/hammer, etc.
-22 piece open/close ended wrenches
Will that be enough?
Can I do this at home w' basic hand tools?
How hard is changing the transmission fluid?
What other parts will I need besides a filter, gasket, and new fluid?
-basic 123 toolkit w' sockets, wrenches, pliers, bit drivers, short extensions
-55 piece toolkit w' pliers/cutteres/hammer, etc.
-22 piece open/close ended wrenches
Will that be enough?
Can I do this at home w' basic hand tools?
How hard is changing the transmission fluid?
What other parts will I need besides a filter, gasket, and new fluid?
#4
I recommend using the ATF cooling lines to pump/replace a gallon of ATF at a time, until you pump the 3rd gallon. Then you drop the pan, and change the filter. Make sure you use lint-free cloths, and keep everything extremely clean!! Flushing the tranny like this will replace the ATF in the torque converter.
#5
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Originally Posted by svo/ranger/stx
loosen all the bolts first and let the extra oil out. then take all the bolts out except 2 bolts in the front of the pan then lower the back of the pan and let the oil drain out then take the last 2 bolt out.
it will save a lot of clean up
it will save a lot of clean up
#7
my cousin changed the tranny fluid on his 93? F250. says hell never do it again, it took him like 8hrs to do. the biggest thing is starting the truck, to drain the fluid while pouring new fluid in. u cant actually start it tho i geuss, u gotta like 1/2 start it just enuff to get the pump to work so u can continue pumping out the the old fluid. the most important of all is that you can not let the tranny run dry even for a second or u may be buying a new tranny.
#8
why the crap would you even think about starting a truck to get the acess fluid out...i do not recommend that at all..if you want 100% of the fluid out go to a shop or buy the pump to push the fluid out of the lines NEVER try and attempt to start it thats doing things dumb and your whilling to wreck something..drop the pan like they said leave the 2 bolts in the back if you want pans kinda heavy and akward when full of fluid..drain it out get the pump if you wish and push all the fluid outta the lines and everything im pretty sure you can pump fluid back in through the lines too then fill the pan through the filler neck in the engine bay..once the fluids in start it up i think if i remember right put it in neutral and the fluid will pump through the system then check it in park if it needs a lil add a lil..its not that hard..dont really need a torque wrench either get them snug and do a 3/4-1/2 turn and always work from one bolt to the opposite on the other side of the pan then once there all in there go around in a circle or crossways again and make sure there tight..you wont break anything jsut dont use hercules arms
#9
^^^x2, I did drain mine with the "engine on" method, because I just don't really care...it's already going to get a replacement. The shop will not replace just one clutch pack, the risk for return is too great. Especially after sand/water was in mine, they just want to do an entire rebuild...I don't blame them either.
I would drop the pan. I dropped the pan, it's really easy, just a dirty, oily job. Just do a 1/2 turn past snug.
I would drop the pan. I dropped the pan, it's really easy, just a dirty, oily job. Just do a 1/2 turn past snug.
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