Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Drum Brakes

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  #1  
Old 08-18-2007
Lord Of War's Avatar
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From: Thornton, Colorado
Drum Brakes

I am pretty sure it is time for me to replace my pads on my rear brakes. I did my front ones with the help of you guys and now I need help on the back ones.

I know nothing about changing the back brakes. So please help me or in other words school me on this.

Also do the drums have to be turned etc....


Is there a "how to" or walk through.
 
  #2  
Old 08-18-2007
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From: New Berlin, WI
All I did when I replaced the pads in my rear was grind off the outer lip on the drums. The shoes are not as wide as the drums, so a small lip will be around the outer edge of the drum.

I'm not going to lie, replacing rear shoes is alot harder then doing front pads. My best advise is to leave one side together so you can see how all the parts fit when your doing the other side.

Edit, you can resurface drums, but I dont think it will be needed on your truck unless yo ran the old shoes to the rivets.
 

Last edited by DerangedPony; 08-18-2007 at 09:49 PM.
  #3  
Old 08-18-2007
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From: New Berlin, WI
Here is a great site about replacing Jeeps shoes:

http://www.4x4xplor.com/drum-brakes.html

good read, you'll have a good idea of what you need to do.
 
  #4  
Old 08-18-2007
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definately base one side off of hte other.
 
  #5  
Old 10-04-2010
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From: Greenville south carolina
Sorry to bring up an old thread but. I'm having trouble getting the drum off the axle. The Chiltons manuel says to pull it towards you. I did but it seems to be locked into place. I tried tapping on the back of the drum to see if it would come off but nothing. Any help is appreciated.
 
  #6  
Old 10-04-2010
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From: Muskegon, Michigan
Originally Posted by dcrymes99ranger
Sorry to bring up an old thread but. I'm having trouble getting the drum off the axle. The Chiltons manuel says to pull it towards you. I did but it seems to be locked into place. I tried tapping on the back of the drum to see if it would come off but nothing. Any help is appreciated.
you will probably need to adjust your shoes in using the brake adjusters.
 
  #7  
Old 10-04-2010
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Does it have little metal clips in the front of the drum on the studs? That might be your problem.
 
  #8  
Old 10-04-2010
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I know mine took readjusting the pads in lower + just hitting the drum about 10 times with a hammer. Mine had a little lip of rust around the inner part of the drum. that might be your problem. Dont be afraid to give it a couple of good hard whacks, its really thick cast iron
 
  #9  
Old 10-04-2010
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i raped my rear drums with a hammer til they come off STupid adjusting screw was all ****ed to hell.

In fact after replacing my rear brakes for a second time in a year completely, ive decided to convert to discs. **** drum brakes!
 
  #10  
Old 10-04-2010
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From: London/Cambridge Ontario
ya back off the adjusting screws all the way and pull it off. use plenty of brake grease or anit seize when being assembled again, and dont cheap out, use all new hardware and springs, cylinder replacement is always a good idea at this time also. only work on one side at a time for reference purposes
 
  #11  
Old 10-04-2010
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From: Boiling Springs, SC
Originally Posted by 08rangerdan
ya back off the adjusting screws all the way and pull it off. use plenty of brake grease or anit seize when being assembled again, and dont cheap out, use all new hardware and springs, cylinder replacement is always a good idea at this time also. only work on one side at a time for reference purposes
aggreed, especially on the hardware and wheel cylinders, replaced my brake shoes and a month later the driver side cylinder blew and i had no brakes
 
  #12  
Old 10-04-2010
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From: London/Cambridge Ontario
it also helped me to pick up an adjusting screw wrench, some flat drivers will work but you risk rounding the teeth without a good sharp tool. spring pliers help lots in removing and installing the retracting springs and a brake shoe spring compression tool helps get the caps on the spring loaded pins.
 
  #13  
Old 10-05-2010
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From: Kansas City, MO
Originally Posted by blueranger789
aggreed, especially on the hardware and wheel cylinders, replaced my brake shoes and a month later the driver side cylinder blew and i had no brakes
yeah, I replaced my shoes and spring hardware after my left drum burned up after sticking quite a bit. Noticed that my adjuster lever had a notch worn in, but after changing out the shoes, it made contact in a different spot. Brakes worked great for a few weeks, then as they settled in, it also settled into the notch...so the brakes didn't self adjust anymore. Had to get new adjuster kits (like $8 each....just buy them) and do it all over again. New wheel cylinder went on the left side as well while I was in there.
 
  #14  
Old 10-05-2010
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
expo axle swap FTW! thats next for my ranger. ive had enough of those drums.
 
  #15  
Old 10-05-2010
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From: Plattsburgh, New York
  #16  
Old 10-06-2010
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The Haynes manual is nice to follow also.
 
  #17  
Old 10-06-2010
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Durms are a pain in the a$$. Do one side at a time take your time and when you get the new shoes get the hardware kit. Good luck sir.
 
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