Drum Brakes
#1
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 4
From: Thornton, Colorado
Drum Brakes
I am pretty sure it is time for me to replace my pads on my rear brakes. I did my front ones with the help of you guys and now I need help on the back ones.
I know nothing about changing the back brakes. So please help me or in other words school me on this.
Also do the drums have to be turned etc....
Is there a "how to" or walk through.
I know nothing about changing the back brakes. So please help me or in other words school me on this.
Also do the drums have to be turned etc....
Is there a "how to" or walk through.
#2
All I did when I replaced the pads in my rear was grind off the outer lip on the drums. The shoes are not as wide as the drums, so a small lip will be around the outer edge of the drum.
I'm not going to lie, replacing rear shoes is alot harder then doing front pads. My best advise is to leave one side together so you can see how all the parts fit when your doing the other side.
Edit, you can resurface drums, but I dont think it will be needed on your truck unless yo ran the old shoes to the rivets.
I'm not going to lie, replacing rear shoes is alot harder then doing front pads. My best advise is to leave one side together so you can see how all the parts fit when your doing the other side.
Edit, you can resurface drums, but I dont think it will be needed on your truck unless yo ran the old shoes to the rivets.
Last edited by DerangedPony; 08-18-2007 at 09:49 PM.
#3
Here is a great site about replacing Jeeps shoes:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/drum-brakes.html
good read, you'll have a good idea of what you need to do.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/drum-brakes.html
good read, you'll have a good idea of what you need to do.
#5
#6
Sorry to bring up an old thread but. I'm having trouble getting the drum off the axle. The Chiltons manuel says to pull it towards you. I did but it seems to be locked into place. I tried tapping on the back of the drum to see if it would come off but nothing. Any help is appreciated.
#8
#9
#10
ya back off the adjusting screws all the way and pull it off. use plenty of brake grease or anit seize when being assembled again, and dont cheap out, use all new hardware and springs, cylinder replacement is always a good idea at this time also. only work on one side at a time for reference purposes
#11
ya back off the adjusting screws all the way and pull it off. use plenty of brake grease or anit seize when being assembled again, and dont cheap out, use all new hardware and springs, cylinder replacement is always a good idea at this time also. only work on one side at a time for reference purposes
#12
it also helped me to pick up an adjusting screw wrench, some flat drivers will work but you risk rounding the teeth without a good sharp tool. spring pliers help lots in removing and installing the retracting springs and a brake shoe spring compression tool helps get the caps on the spring loaded pins.
#13
yeah, I replaced my shoes and spring hardware after my left drum burned up after sticking quite a bit. Noticed that my adjuster lever had a notch worn in, but after changing out the shoes, it made contact in a different spot. Brakes worked great for a few weeks, then as they settled in, it also settled into the notch...so the brakes didn't self adjust anymore. Had to get new adjuster kits (like $8 each....just buy them) and do it all over again. New wheel cylinder went on the left side as well while I was in there.
#15
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