Just had a new clutch installed by tire chain store. $1100.00 cdn.Got it back and it wwas really hard to get into gear hard to shift into gear. Took it back and they reblead it. This help alot. Something is still not right. There is a bout 2inches of free play before the clutch engages but it shifts okay.would there still be air in it that is causing so much free play
Also mechanic said not to go out in the cold and push the clutch in fast as this would blow the slave cyl. seals is this normal.Why anybody would put the slave where it is so when it fails it trashes the whole clutch once oil hits the clutch.


undefinedthanks for help.

 

Same thing happend to me on monday man, I feel you on how much this hurts the pocket book. I work for a parts store and got the clutch kit for 230 bucks including a slave though, and since I know a few mechanics I think its only going to run me about 650 bucks total. I would take it back or take it to another shop and have them look at it then sue the tire store for your lost time and money and damage to your truck. Something isnt right with what they are sayin to you.

 

it should have been properly bled at the shop that did the swap. It even kinda sounds like it's a defective slave.

 

I've wondered that myself more than once. Lots of us on here have been through it, and the sad thing is, it's only a matter of time before it happens again. Mine went out @ 38,000, and i'm at 66500, so I figure i'm about due again. If I remember, some people had theirs go out as early as 12000 miles. It's not like the Ranger is anywhere near a new platform. They should have all that crap squared away by now.

 

i'm on slave #3.....none of them leaked...the seals just went to hell. Bought the truck at 35k, at 50k, slave went out. At 65k, trans took a dump and slave did as well. Those were both purchased from Ford.....motorcraft parts. The new one, a Raybestos is working fine with about 6k on it.

 

my 98 hat 105,000 when i bought it now it has 115k and the slave just went like a month ago from what the shop told me that was the original clutch and slave so im not too mad

 

About a week ago, my 2001 Mazda B3000 manual (130K miles) had the clutch friction point get way too close to the floor. My wife had noticed something leaking, and apparently it was brake (er, clutch) fluid. I went to my manual and this forum for clues, and was rightly led to bleeding as a first solution. I am posting here to fill in a piece of information I've not found anywhere else, and missing it caused me considerable grief. When you check the fluid level for the clutch (and especially when you bleed it), TAKE OUT THE DANG BLACK RUBBER THING! Maybe that's old news to you guys, but I saw another thread where another poor sod punched a hole it his to "fix" it and no one corrected him. It's supposed to go on TOP of the fluid to reduce its exposure to air, which, I'm told, weakens it. So, in the course of my errant ways, my attempt to bleed it made things worse. By the time I figured things out, I had air in the master cylinder, and the clutch didn't work at all.
In the end, I had a shop replace the slave cylinder and bleed it. He still didn't get all the air out of the master cylinder, but it works, now. He says that his manual says the little remaining air will work itself out.

 

I recently had my FX4 at aamco to have the clutch and tranny worked on. I had just replaced the clutch and slave before I left town for the summer. When I returned to town the clutch was still kind of soft, and when my attempts to bleed it didn't work, I had aamco take a look. It turns out the only part of the system I didn't replace was the part that was bad, which was the master. I got a new one, only to find when I got the truck back the clutch pedal still wasn't right. It wouldn't disengage until a good 2/3 into its available movement. The clutch still worked though.

This led me to a return trip to aamco where they took another look at the master and ended up needing to bleed it again. I was told by more than one technician that Ranger clutches (the whole system, esp. the master) are notoriously a PITA to bleed. Apparently the best way to get the master bleed it to take it completely out of the vehicle, put it in a bench vise upside down and pump it, so as to make certain all of the air is rid.

Now whatever the procedure may be or what peoples opinions are, it worked. When I pressed the clutch upon returning, it worked and felt GREAT.