Changing Transmission Fluid...Anyone?
#1
Changing Transmission Fluid...Anyone?
Hey guys I have a 02 Edge,2 wheel drive,auto trans V6 3.0.I like to maintain my truck myself but this job looks difficult....a local shop wants 120.00 to flush and refill,is this worth it or could I do it my self for much less? If u guys could show me a link or have step-by-step pics on how to do this job that would be GREAT! Thanks
#2
I haven't done an A4LD before, which is what I believe your truck has, but I have done serveral others. Typically you drop the pan to drain the majority of the fluid, then on some torque converters there is a drain plug to drain out the rest of the fluid. The filter is typically just behind the pan and is easily removed. To finish just replace the filter and refill, it's not to bad of a job, hopefully someone that has done your specific trans can chime in.
-rob
-rob
#5
I have done many trans filters but never had one flushed. I'm not sure what the manual says about frequency but you should be able to get 40-50,000 miles out of your fluid if you don't abuse your truck 4wheeling or towing. Its a simple job. I usually take the bolts out of 3 sides then slowly loosen the rest to let the pan hang and drain. The filters are some times held in place with clips or bolts. If its bolted you should torque it to the proper specs. I usually reuse the fctory rubber gasket with no sealer instead of the cheap replacement gaskets(your choice)
John
John
#6
Usually around every 40 thousand miles, but it varies for different trannys. As an arguable rule of thumb change it regularly from the start or not at all. So if you have 120 thousand on the original trans fluid, don't flush the system, just keep it topped off. Flushing after high miles seems to accelerate the wear on the tranny, and I have personally experienced this twice. Once on my AOD, and on my buddies 2000 F-150, both tranny's started to slip within 2 weeks of changing the fluid.
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AngryPossum (03-21-2022)
#7
#8
It's easy to flush it yourself.
Here is what to do:
1) Mark a bucket (or other container) at the 1 gallon level.
2) Remove both lines going to the tranny cooler in front of the radiator, so they drain into the bucket (you may need longer rubber hoses).
3) Start your engine, and watch for the ATF to reach the 1 gallon level.
4) Add 1 gallon of new ATF.
5) Repeat steps 3 & 4, but DON'T add the 4th gallon after pumping it out.
6) Drop the pan, replace the filter, and gasket. Be extemely careful to clean the pan (which has a magnet for picking up debris) as thoroughly as possible, using only "lint free" cloths!
7) Install the pan, tightening the bolts to their specified torque (which I don't remember).
8) Connect tranny cooling lines.
8) Add 1 gallon of new ATF plus a little to put the level to the full mark (when HOT).
This procedure will replace the ATF in the torque converter. A suggestion, move the shifter from "P" to "D" and "R" while the ATF is pumping out....it's best to use
2 people, one to watch the ATF level in the bucket, and one to start and stop the engine.
Here is what to do:
1) Mark a bucket (or other container) at the 1 gallon level.
2) Remove both lines going to the tranny cooler in front of the radiator, so they drain into the bucket (you may need longer rubber hoses).
3) Start your engine, and watch for the ATF to reach the 1 gallon level.
4) Add 1 gallon of new ATF.
5) Repeat steps 3 & 4, but DON'T add the 4th gallon after pumping it out.
6) Drop the pan, replace the filter, and gasket. Be extemely careful to clean the pan (which has a magnet for picking up debris) as thoroughly as possible, using only "lint free" cloths!
7) Install the pan, tightening the bolts to their specified torque (which I don't remember).
8) Connect tranny cooling lines.
8) Add 1 gallon of new ATF plus a little to put the level to the full mark (when HOT).
This procedure will replace the ATF in the torque converter. A suggestion, move the shifter from "P" to "D" and "R" while the ATF is pumping out....it's best to use
2 people, one to watch the ATF level in the bucket, and one to start and stop the engine.
Last edited by Takeda; 03-25-2008 at 05:33 AM.
#9
HOLY CRAP!!!!! I agree with Bob for once....
here is a printable PDF from AMSOIL:
http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/ATF_and_F...Procedures.pdf
here is a printable PDF from AMSOIL:
http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/ATF_and_F...Procedures.pdf
#10
Thanks Maurice, your post reminded me to tell you to NEVER use the mutli-purpose ATF from companies like Scamsoil, if your tranny dipstick says Mercon V!!!!!
USE ONLY SYNTHETIC or SYNTHETIC BLEND MERCON V, available from Valvoline, Castrol, or Motorcraft!!!!
Scamsoil, in their usual deceitful form, says their ATF meets the specs on Dexron VI, Mercon V, and Mercon SP, when the viscosity spec is different in all 3 of these ATFs,
as well as FMs!!
USE ONLY SYNTHETIC or SYNTHETIC BLEND MERCON V, available from Valvoline, Castrol, or Motorcraft!!!!
Scamsoil, in their usual deceitful form, says their ATF meets the specs on Dexron VI, Mercon V, and Mercon SP, when the viscosity spec is different in all 3 of these ATFs,
as well as FMs!!
Last edited by Takeda; 03-25-2008 at 06:06 AM.
#13
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