Borg Warner 1356 (size, specs, etc)
#1
Borg Warner 1356 (size, specs, etc)
The Borg Warner 1356
How big is it compared to the 1354?
What is the ratio for 4low?
Are they fixed output?
What Ujoint size is the front output? 1330? 1310?
I am looking at one from an early 90s F150 its a Manual.
Will it fit in the ranger tunnel?
Also I read it will bolt to a 4R70W? Is this correct?
How big is it compared to the 1354?
What is the ratio for 4low?
Are they fixed output?
What Ujoint size is the front output? 1330? 1310?
I am looking at one from an early 90s F150 its a Manual.
Will it fit in the ranger tunnel?
Also I read it will bolt to a 4R70W? Is this correct?
#5
Yes 1356 is the same 6-bolt pattern as a 4x4 4R70W extension housing. Should be a 31 spline on both as well - at least, that's how my 4406 is and it is from the same t-case family. The 4R70W extension housing should have the 2 threaded bosses for the manual T/Case shifter linkage too.
Size is much larger for the 1356 compared to the 1354. It would be very close to the DS frame rail in a Ranger.
Size is much larger for the 1356 compared to the 1354. It would be very close to the DS frame rail in a Ranger.
#9
Sorry I don't have that number. I can probably get it eventually. Actually, what you really want to know is the dimension from the centerline of the rear output yoke or flange to the left frame rail on your truck. Then measure the same on any case you find to see if it will fit with some clearance.
Mine was really tight, so I moved the engine/trans/transfer case about 3/8" to the PS. I probably could have run it without the relocation but it was too close for my comfort zone.
You know, on a suspension lifted truck like yours, you could probably reclock the t-case downward a few degrees to get it away from the frame rail. It would help your driveshaft angles too. Reclocking rings are available on eBay for about $69. Only problem I see there is that the manual shift linkage might need some work to match.
Mine was really tight, so I moved the engine/trans/transfer case about 3/8" to the PS. I probably could have run it without the relocation but it was too close for my comfort zone.
You know, on a suspension lifted truck like yours, you could probably reclock the t-case downward a few degrees to get it away from the frame rail. It would help your driveshaft angles too. Reclocking rings are available on eBay for about $69. Only problem I see there is that the manual shift linkage might need some work to match.
#10
This doesn't answer any of your questions but I was bored at work searching google and ran across these detail pics of the BW1356:
http://www.wildercafe.com/fordtech/Thumbnails.htm
http://www.wildercafe.com/fordtech/Thumbnails.htm
#11
Sorry I don't have that number. I can probably get it eventually. Actually, what you really want to know is the dimension from the centerline of the rear output yoke or flange to the left frame rail on your truck. Then measure the same on any case you find to see if it will fit with some clearance.
Mine was really tight, so I moved the engine/trans/transfer case about 3/8" to the PS. I probably could have run it without the relocation but it was too close for my comfort zone.
You know, on a suspension lifted truck like yours, you could probably reclock the t-case downward a few degrees to get it away from the frame rail. It would help your driveshaft angles too. Reclocking rings are available on eBay for about $69. Only problem I see there is that the manual shift linkage might need some work to match.
Mine was really tight, so I moved the engine/trans/transfer case about 3/8" to the PS. I probably could have run it without the relocation but it was too close for my comfort zone.
You know, on a suspension lifted truck like yours, you could probably reclock the t-case downward a few degrees to get it away from the frame rail. It would help your driveshaft angles too. Reclocking rings are available on eBay for about $69. Only problem I see there is that the manual shift linkage might need some work to match.
good call, but after looking and searching i really didnt come up with any results for a clocking ring.
I have a lot to decide and plenty of time to do it. its just too bad the signal isnt read from the transmission like the 2001+ ranger.
#12
http://stores.ebay.com/Datin-Fabrica...4-and-Off-Road
(951) 634-6059
#13
This seller had it listed last week for $69 with free shipping. The ring was machined with several holes so you could pick something like 13*, 23*, 33* up or down (don't remember if those were the exact numbers). Keep an eye on his eBay store or call direct. A lot of other interesting off-road stuff there too.
http://stores.ebay.com/Datin-Fabrica...4-and-Off-Road
(951) 634-6059
http://stores.ebay.com/Datin-Fabrica...4-and-Off-Road
(951) 634-6059
#14
Here's what I'm talking about. Most fullsize GM/Ford/Chrysler transfer cases use the same 6-bolt pattern. You'd need to verify that this would work with the 1356/4406/4407 before ordering.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clock...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clock...Q5fAccessories
#15
#16
Good point. I don't know one way or the other. However, if I'm not mistaken, it does have a pump inside so it doesn't rely strictly on splash lubrication. The minumum 12* reclock shouldn't be too drastic. Could be that you'd have to adjust the oil level upward to compensate. And then do something about the shift linkage....
Add it all together and it starts to get complicated. It might be easier to simply move the engine/transmission/case over slightly like I did. When Andy (INT3RC3PTOR) installed his 4406, I'm not sure that he did anything at all for clearance. Maybe he has something to add.
Add it all together and it starts to get complicated. It might be easier to simply move the engine/transmission/case over slightly like I did. When Andy (INT3RC3PTOR) installed his 4406, I'm not sure that he did anything at all for clearance. Maybe he has something to add.
#18
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