A4LD not shifting from 2nd to 3rd....
#1
A4LD not shifting from 2nd to 3rd....
I just bought a very clean 1994 Ranger 3.0 XLT with the A4LD 4x2 automatic with a known transmission problem. The previous owner had bought a replacement daily driver and not tried to repair the truck.
The truck operates normally in reverse and in 1st and 2nd gear...but will not shift to 3rd gear.
I can run up to 40 mph in 2nd...but it will not shift.
Is it possible that the vacuum modulator may be bad?
I have not yet checked underneath to see if the vacuum line has trans fluid in it. But i have been told...it possibly could create the problem I am seeing if the diaphragm is bad and leaking vacuum.
Or is this an internal issue inside the transmission...I.E. bad solenoid or leaking valve body gaskets?
Any help is appreciated.
The truck operates normally in reverse and in 1st and 2nd gear...but will not shift to 3rd gear.
I can run up to 40 mph in 2nd...but it will not shift.
Is it possible that the vacuum modulator may be bad?
I have not yet checked underneath to see if the vacuum line has trans fluid in it. But i have been told...it possibly could create the problem I am seeing if the diaphragm is bad and leaking vacuum.
Or is this an internal issue inside the transmission...I.E. bad solenoid or leaking valve body gaskets?
Any help is appreciated.
#2
Welcome to the forum
1994 was last year of the A4LD model but not the transmission
It has 2 solenoids
Torque converter lock up solenoid, TCC
3/4 shift solenoid, 3/4, for Overdrive, 4th gear
1995 had renamed A4LD, a 4R44E, same trans but had 6 solenoids for full shift control
Yes, 2/3 shift issue could be vacuum modulator, I would replace it even if you don't find trans fluid in the vacuum hose.
There are several how-tos, including videos of how to do this correctly
If that doesn't fix the problem then not a waste since your next step is a rebuild and you needed it for that
1994 was last year of the A4LD model but not the transmission
It has 2 solenoids
Torque converter lock up solenoid, TCC
3/4 shift solenoid, 3/4, for Overdrive, 4th gear
1995 had renamed A4LD, a 4R44E, same trans but had 6 solenoids for full shift control
Yes, 2/3 shift issue could be vacuum modulator, I would replace it even if you don't find trans fluid in the vacuum hose.
There are several how-tos, including videos of how to do this correctly
If that doesn't fix the problem then not a waste since your next step is a rebuild and you needed it for that
#3
Yes, 2/3 shift issue could be vacuum modulator, I would replace it even if you don't find trans fluid in the vacuum hose.
There are several how-tos, including videos of how to do this correctly
If that doesn't fix the problem then not a waste since your next step is a rebuild and you needed it for that
I am familiar with replacing a vacuum modulator. Should be a quick fix as long as the exhaust is not in the way.
I will also replace the rubber vacuum lines to the intake as a possible source of vacuum leaks.
If that is not the issue...what internally might cause the same symptom?
Possibly a bad / leaking valve body gasket?
Any other sources of leaking / low line pressure that could be corrected from the pan.?
#4
All automatics run on pressure, all gears are always spinning the pressure engages the clutches and band brakes.
So yes it is a pressure problem for sure, but where it is losing pressure is the crystal ball answer.
If reverse is working then you have enough internal pressure, it requires highest pressure.
So if modulator doesn't fix it then next would be valve body, but..............alot of work for a maybe fix.
If you just want to get it working to sell it then worth a shot, if you are keeping it then I would pull it and do full rebuild or swap it for a rebuilt.
What does the trans fluid look like and smell like, if it has just been changed, before you bought it, then you can count on clutch damage, lol, burnt smell and dark fluid so they changed it to sell it.
If it is a lighter or medium red color with no burnt smell then valve body only might be worth it.
Lack of pressure causes hot clutches and bands because they are slipping, which heats up the fluid making it darker red and eventually gets a burnt smell
Automatics can last a long while if fluid temp is kept under 210degf, 190-200degf is optimal, which is why 2nd trans cooler is worth every penny of the $60-$80 dollars, and trans temp sensor is not a bad investment either.
So yes it is a pressure problem for sure, but where it is losing pressure is the crystal ball answer.
If reverse is working then you have enough internal pressure, it requires highest pressure.
So if modulator doesn't fix it then next would be valve body, but..............alot of work for a maybe fix.
If you just want to get it working to sell it then worth a shot, if you are keeping it then I would pull it and do full rebuild or swap it for a rebuilt.
What does the trans fluid look like and smell like, if it has just been changed, before you bought it, then you can count on clutch damage, lol, burnt smell and dark fluid so they changed it to sell it.
If it is a lighter or medium red color with no burnt smell then valve body only might be worth it.
Lack of pressure causes hot clutches and bands because they are slipping, which heats up the fluid making it darker red and eventually gets a burnt smell
Automatics can last a long while if fluid temp is kept under 210degf, 190-200degf is optimal, which is why 2nd trans cooler is worth every penny of the $60-$80 dollars, and trans temp sensor is not a bad investment either.
Last edited by RonD; 03-12-2017 at 01:56 PM.
#5
If reverse is working then you have enough internal pressure, it requires highest pressure.
So if modulator doesn't fix it then next would be valve body, but..............alot of work for a maybe fix.
If you just want to get it working to sell it then worth a shot, if you are keeping it then I would pull it and do full rebuild or swap it for a rebuilt.
What does the trans fluid look like and smell like, if it has just been changed, before you bought it, then you can count on clutch damage, lol, burnt smell and dark fluid so they changed it to sell it.
If it is a lighter or medium red color with no burnt smell then valve body only might be worth it.
So if modulator doesn't fix it then next would be valve body, but..............alot of work for a maybe fix.
If you just want to get it working to sell it then worth a shot, if you are keeping it then I would pull it and do full rebuild or swap it for a rebuilt.
What does the trans fluid look like and smell like, if it has just been changed, before you bought it, then you can count on clutch damage, lol, burnt smell and dark fluid so they changed it to sell it.
If it is a lighter or medium red color with no burnt smell then valve body only might be worth it.
Reverse works without any issue.
The previous owner indicated the engine oil and filter were changed 100 miles ago. He could not remember ever changing the trans filter or fluid. He did say that he would add fluid if it ever checked low.
The trans fluid is still a nice reddish pink with no burnt odor. It looks surprisingly good for never having been changed....but it's not as clear or clean as new fluid.
There is fluid in the modulator vacuum line plus the line had an obvious crack where it was leaking. I have new vacuum line on hand and a new modulator on order from Rock Auto. I feel confident that these two issues are the culprit.
I'll know in a few days..
Thanks for the input..!
Kerry
#7
I just bought a very clean 1994 Ranger 3.0 XLT with the A4LD 4x2 automatic with a known transmission problem. The previous owner had bought a replacement daily driver and not tried to repair the truck.
The truck operates normally in reverse and in 1st and 2nd gear...but will not shift to 3rd gear.
I can run up to 40 mph in 2nd...but it will not shift.
Is it possible that the vacuum modulator may be bad?
I have not yet checked underneath to see if the vacuum line has trans fluid in it. But i have been told...it possibly could create the problem I am seeing if the diaphragm is bad and leaking vacuum.
Or is this an internal issue inside the transmission...I.E. bad solenoid or leaking valve body gaskets?
Any help is appreciated.
The truck operates normally in reverse and in 1st and 2nd gear...but will not shift to 3rd gear.
I can run up to 40 mph in 2nd...but it will not shift.
Is it possible that the vacuum modulator may be bad?
I have not yet checked underneath to see if the vacuum line has trans fluid in it. But i have been told...it possibly could create the problem I am seeing if the diaphragm is bad and leaking vacuum.
Or is this an internal issue inside the transmission...I.E. bad solenoid or leaking valve body gaskets?
Any help is appreciated.
#8
Welcome to the forum
1994 was last year of the A4LD model but not the transmission
It has 2 solenoids
Torque converter lock up solenoid, TCC
3/4 shift solenoid, 3/4, for Overdrive, 4th gear
1995 had renamed A4LD, a 4R44E, same trans but had 6 solenoids for full shift control
Yes, 2/3 shift issue could be vacuum modulator, I would replace it even if you don't find trans fluid in the vacuum hose.
There are several how-tos, including videos of how to do this correctly
If that doesn't fix the problem then not a waste since your next step is a rebuild and you needed it for that
1994 was last year of the A4LD model but not the transmission
It has 2 solenoids
Torque converter lock up solenoid, TCC
3/4 shift solenoid, 3/4, for Overdrive, 4th gear
1995 had renamed A4LD, a 4R44E, same trans but had 6 solenoids for full shift control
Yes, 2/3 shift issue could be vacuum modulator, I would replace it even if you don't find trans fluid in the vacuum hose.
There are several how-tos, including videos of how to do this correctly
If that doesn't fix the problem then not a waste since your next step is a rebuild and you needed it for that
did the modulator solve the issue
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