5R55E Slippage!
#1
5R55E Slippage!
I got my first ranger about two months ago with 35K miles, and it now has 36.1K miles. My tranny slips in first gear. In a dead stop, I have to get the RPMs up to 1000 to 1200 before it engages. Sometimes it engages quite hard too.
Also, when I gas it hard (from a rolling start) it works fine, but when I let off the gas, the tranny has a problem finding gears. It may be in second, shift to third, then to fourth, then back to third, then back to fourth. All in about 2-3 seconds.
Is there anything I can do to fix this problem myself? My warranty expired and I don't have an extended warranty. Needless to say, I don't have the funding to take it to a tranny shop.
Also, when I gas it hard (from a rolling start) it works fine, but when I let off the gas, the tranny has a problem finding gears. It may be in second, shift to third, then to fourth, then back to third, then back to fourth. All in about 2-3 seconds.
Is there anything I can do to fix this problem myself? My warranty expired and I don't have an extended warranty. Needless to say, I don't have the funding to take it to a tranny shop.
#2
#3
sounds like it needs to be flushed out and have the filter changed, those are some common symptoms.
also, if you take it to a good dealer, there is a grace period in the warranty that some of them can take advantage of, if you go right away and still have just over 36,000 miles, and tell them it was doing it before it rolled over but you didnt have time to bring it in. they may help you out, ive seen it before
also, if you take it to a good dealer, there is a grace period in the warranty that some of them can take advantage of, if you go right away and still have just over 36,000 miles, and tell them it was doing it before it rolled over but you didnt have time to bring it in. they may help you out, ive seen it before
#9
#10
#13
At 23k I drained the pan, changed the filter and all gaskets and rings, rtv'd it together, then filled it back up. I was thinking about doing a full flush but I need to get exact numbers before I start dumping a bunchs of quarts of (expensive) merconV into a 5 gallon bucket.
I was hoping that the pan fluid and filter would recharge it a bit and I don't think it did a damn thing.
I was hoping that the pan fluid and filter would recharge it a bit and I don't think it did a damn thing.
#14
Originally Posted by l2en
At 23k I drained the pan, changed the filter and all gaskets and rings, rtv'd it together, then filled it back up. I was thinking about doing a full flush but I need to get exact numbers before I start dumping a bunchs of quarts of (expensive) merconV into a 5 gallon bucket.
I was hoping that the pan fluid and filter would recharge it a bit and I don't think it did a damn thing.
I was hoping that the pan fluid and filter would recharge it a bit and I don't think it did a damn thing.
The total system holds 12 or 13 quarts I believe. Ford charges about $100 bucks to flush, clean, and re-fill the whole system.
#16
All you have to do is disconnect the out line that goes to the transmission cooler.
put some plastic tubing over it with a pipe clamp.
put the tubing into a bucket.. get an assistant to start the engine..
and dump some quarts into the transmission as it pumps into the bucket
if you fall behind adding the atf you just shut off the engine until you catch up
do this for about 12-14 qts after you drop the pan and change the filter.
and you should theoretically change out upto 90%+ of your fluid.
Just be careful it can get messy if you jack up the process.. I ended up with
atf EVERYWHERE when the tubing kinked doh.
Rand
put some plastic tubing over it with a pipe clamp.
put the tubing into a bucket.. get an assistant to start the engine..
and dump some quarts into the transmission as it pumps into the bucket
if you fall behind adding the atf you just shut off the engine until you catch up
do this for about 12-14 qts after you drop the pan and change the filter.
and you should theoretically change out upto 90%+ of your fluid.
Just be careful it can get messy if you jack up the process.. I ended up with
atf EVERYWHERE when the tubing kinked doh.
Rand
#17
Originally Posted by Rand
All you have to do is disconnect the out line that goes to the transmission cooler.
put some plastic tubing over it with a pipe clamp.
put the tubing into a bucket.. get an assistant to start the engine..
and dump some quarts into the transmission as it pumps into the bucket
if you fall behind adding the atf you just shut off the engine until you catch up
do this for about 12-14 qts after you drop the pan and change the filter.
and you should theoretically change out upto 90%+ of your fluid.
Just be careful it can get messy if you jack up the process.. I ended up with
atf EVERYWHERE when the tubing kinked doh.
Rand
put some plastic tubing over it with a pipe clamp.
put the tubing into a bucket.. get an assistant to start the engine..
and dump some quarts into the transmission as it pumps into the bucket
if you fall behind adding the atf you just shut off the engine until you catch up
do this for about 12-14 qts after you drop the pan and change the filter.
and you should theoretically change out upto 90%+ of your fluid.
Just be careful it can get messy if you jack up the process.. I ended up with
atf EVERYWHERE when the tubing kinked doh.
Rand
#23
Ok today I had a large tranny cooler and a shift kit installed in my ranger, this included a flush and filter. The guy that did the work said he noticed the oil was alot darker/dirtier then it should have been (at 29600 miles) and he suggested that I change the oil every 12 - 15k miles.
If your oil has a slightly burnt smell to it then it should be changed, if it has a sweet berry smell to it then it should be fine.
If your oil has a slightly burnt smell to it then it should be changed, if it has a sweet berry smell to it then it should be fine.
#25