4R44E slow to shift when warmed up
#1
4R44E slow to shift when warmed up
Hello All,
I have a 2000 Ranger with a 4R44E automatic. Everything seems to shift just fine with the exception of a slight hangup when shifting from 2-3rd. Also when it warms up (normal operating temp), It becomes slow to engage Reverse and Drive. I changed the filter and fluid and it seemed to get a little better but still not as it should be. I have been reading a few threads about changing the valve body and solenoids to "Sonnax Plug and Play"? Is this something that would be a wise move? If so, is there a good source for this unit? I have gone to the website but no real direction for where to purchase it. Is there anything else I should consider before trying this option?
Greg
I have a 2000 Ranger with a 4R44E automatic. Everything seems to shift just fine with the exception of a slight hangup when shifting from 2-3rd. Also when it warms up (normal operating temp), It becomes slow to engage Reverse and Drive. I changed the filter and fluid and it seemed to get a little better but still not as it should be. I have been reading a few threads about changing the valve body and solenoids to "Sonnax Plug and Play"? Is this something that would be a wise move? If so, is there a good source for this unit? I have gone to the website but no real direction for where to purchase it. Is there anything else I should consider before trying this option?
Greg
#2
Its called 2-3 flare and not uncommon on the 4R and 5R transmissions
First thing to know is that the 4R44E(55E) and 5R44E(55E) are the same transmission inside, the Computer added the "5th gear", it turned on OD while still in 1st to get a faux 2nd gear
So anything you read about the 5R models applies to the 4R models
All automatics run on ATF fluid Pressure, all, not a Ranger or Ford thing, if its an automatic then it operates based on fluid pressure
When transmission is warmed up the ATF is "thinner" like any oil, so there will be less pressure than when cold
Your slower engagement to D or R when warm means there is a pressure issue which should be dealt with first
There is a pump in the front of transmission that is turned by the torque converter directly, so spins at engine RPMs
This pump provides all the pressure for the system
The pump sends pressurized ATF to the valve body, the solenoids route this pressure to clutches and bands(brakes) to select gear ratios on the planetary gear sets
If there are any leaks in valve body gaskets or seals then pressure is lost
So changing Valve body gaskets and seals can restore lost pressure if thats the cause of the lower pressure
Miles
Automatic Transmissions generally last 300k miles before clutches and bands are worn out, but if there was "slipping" then these parts wear out much faster
This requires a full rebuild and you would/should use a new valve body at this time
So a new valve body is not a bad gamble since it would be needed regardless, just a little extra labor to see if it fixes current issues
Article here on the 2-3 flare: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne.../2003_5_50.pdf
It tells you how solenoids and the system in general works
Also includes pressure you should see in the different gears, if you want to rent a trans pressure test gauge
The computer will set P0700-P0802 codes if there is an electrical(circuit) issue or if there is a ratio(shifting) issue with the solenoids
These codes don't show up on most OBD2 readers, but OD OFF light should Flash if trans codes are set, thats the CEL(check engine light) for the transmission
Many have good things to say about adding a "shift kit" to the valve bodies on these transmissions
First thing to know is that the 4R44E(55E) and 5R44E(55E) are the same transmission inside, the Computer added the "5th gear", it turned on OD while still in 1st to get a faux 2nd gear
So anything you read about the 5R models applies to the 4R models
All automatics run on ATF fluid Pressure, all, not a Ranger or Ford thing, if its an automatic then it operates based on fluid pressure
When transmission is warmed up the ATF is "thinner" like any oil, so there will be less pressure than when cold
Your slower engagement to D or R when warm means there is a pressure issue which should be dealt with first
There is a pump in the front of transmission that is turned by the torque converter directly, so spins at engine RPMs
This pump provides all the pressure for the system
The pump sends pressurized ATF to the valve body, the solenoids route this pressure to clutches and bands(brakes) to select gear ratios on the planetary gear sets
If there are any leaks in valve body gaskets or seals then pressure is lost
So changing Valve body gaskets and seals can restore lost pressure if thats the cause of the lower pressure
Miles
Automatic Transmissions generally last 300k miles before clutches and bands are worn out, but if there was "slipping" then these parts wear out much faster
This requires a full rebuild and you would/should use a new valve body at this time
So a new valve body is not a bad gamble since it would be needed regardless, just a little extra labor to see if it fixes current issues
Article here on the 2-3 flare: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne.../2003_5_50.pdf
It tells you how solenoids and the system in general works
Also includes pressure you should see in the different gears, if you want to rent a trans pressure test gauge
The computer will set P0700-P0802 codes if there is an electrical(circuit) issue or if there is a ratio(shifting) issue with the solenoids
These codes don't show up on most OBD2 readers, but OD OFF light should Flash if trans codes are set, thats the CEL(check engine light) for the transmission
Many have good things to say about adding a "shift kit" to the valve bodies on these transmissions
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DILLARD000 (01-21-2021)
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