4.0L SOHC, 5spd manual, 4.10's, and 35's.....
#1
4.0L SOHC, 5spd manual, 4.10's, and 35's.....
Hey.
This is not one of those "what gear ratio should I run?" threads.....we have plenty of those, and I know what ratio is recommended.
I havn't really seen this covered.......anybody have a 4.0L SOHC, 5spd manual, 4.10s, and 35's???? How is it?? Obknoxious?? Annoying?? Halfway decent?? Does it feel like having 31's on a 3.73 4cyl??
I have driven Trevor's 4.0L SOHC, 4spd auto, 4.10s, and 35's....and it is half way decent.
Just curious if anybody ran/is running that setup.
This is not one of those "what gear ratio should I run?" threads.....we have plenty of those, and I know what ratio is recommended.
I havn't really seen this covered.......anybody have a 4.0L SOHC, 5spd manual, 4.10s, and 35's???? How is it?? Obknoxious?? Annoying?? Halfway decent?? Does it feel like having 31's on a 3.73 4cyl??
I have driven Trevor's 4.0L SOHC, 4spd auto, 4.10s, and 35's....and it is half way decent.
Just curious if anybody ran/is running that setup.
#2
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#4
yea i have it. It aint that bad to be honest. I have not problems with it at all. but the truck is way underpowered by it still gets up and goes and i can get the tires to break loose too. so its still got power but it aint like stock and i get about 10-12 milage wise. but my speedo is off and i dont know how to calculate it to be correct.
dude youll like it. and 35s are pretty awsome.
dude youll like it. and 35s are pretty awsome.
#5
#6
yea i have it. It aint that bad to be honest. I have not problems with it at all. but the truck is way underpowered by it still gets up and goes and i can get the tires to break loose too. so its still got power but it aint like stock and i get about 10-12 milage wise. but my speedo is off and i dont know how to calculate it to be correct.
dude youll like it. and 35s are pretty awsome.
dude youll like it. and 35s are pretty awsome.
go out and drive exactly 10 miles. like from one mile marker to the next. etc. wherever you know its marked like that one the road.
reset your trip and drive that 10 miles. needs to be straight 10 miles. once u go 10 see what your trip says. it will probably say like 7 but you really went 10.
now use that logic at every fill up. if you drive 100 miles on the trip then its really 130 miles. etc. 200 miles is really 260.
#7
#8
not for enough difference to run 35s, this has been covered before the stock PCM can only be calibrated for like 32s or something. otherwise a tuner is needed.
#9
#10
easy...
go out and drive exactly 10 miles. like from one mile marker to the next. etc. wherever you know its marked like that one the road.
reset your trip and drive that 10 miles. needs to be straight 10 miles. once u go 10 see what your trip says. it will probably say like 7 but you really went 10.
now use that logic at every fill up. if you drive 100 miles on the trip then its really 130 miles. etc. 200 miles is really 260.
go out and drive exactly 10 miles. like from one mile marker to the next. etc. wherever you know its marked like that one the road.
reset your trip and drive that 10 miles. needs to be straight 10 miles. once u go 10 see what your trip says. it will probably say like 7 but you really went 10.
now use that logic at every fill up. if you drive 100 miles on the trip then its really 130 miles. etc. 200 miles is really 260.
im gonna try that tommarow.
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#16
No lol, I had a Mazda 3 with 2.3L engine. Like I know a truck is going to be slower and stuff but I would still expect a little more kick from it. Like when going to pass somebody when doing 100 km (60miles) I don't have to down shift which is nice unless I need to rush to pass but I still expected more power. My friend says wait until you tow something and don't notice a loss of power, thats where a truck will perform.
Sorry for hijack but just saying my feelings
Sorry for hijack but just saying my feelings
#19
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#22
I wouldn't bother running 35's on 4.10's. I can't believe people do this, really. My 98 was a supercab 4x4 4.0L OHV 5spb, with 33's and 3.73's. It was 'okay' running around town empty, but was miserable towing anything worth hooking up to, and 4high was almost useless unless it was on a light dusting of snow. Sand, mud, deep snow all required 4low. Plus getting it going from the tall 1st gear required slipping the small weak clutch.
My sport trac is an auto, but has 4.10's with 33's. Came stock with 4.10's and 30" tires. It's liveable with 33's, not bad driving around on the road. Mileage isn't what it could be. It does okay in sand and snow (in 4high) but the transmission and engine are working very hard. Deep snow (more than 1.5 feet) pretty much require 4low. It tows an 1800 lbs enclosed trailer okay... But I wouldn't even consider it with 35's. Sure it would do it, but not well, and it's going to wear the drivetrain out much soon than it should. I actually started to consider stepping down to 32's as my next set of tires to relieve the tranny and help performance, until I decided to just regear.
Maybe it's just me, but that extra 1" of ground clearance isn't worth not being able to use my truck as a truck in 4high, and tow things comfortable. I've never found myself somewhere saying, "sh%t, I could have made it through/over that if I had 35's instead of 33's". I'm regearing the sport trac this week to 4.88's (4.56 would be more ideal). With 4.88's, I'll still be able to run 35's comfortably and tow with no problems.
I just think that, while running 35's and 4.10's, you lose more than you gain.
Now everyone who is running that combo, don't get all butthurt about my opinion, it's just my opinion.
I suppose if you just drive your truck on the freeway empty, 35's and 4.10's may be okay. But again, why run 35's if you're just commuting?
My sport trac is an auto, but has 4.10's with 33's. Came stock with 4.10's and 30" tires. It's liveable with 33's, not bad driving around on the road. Mileage isn't what it could be. It does okay in sand and snow (in 4high) but the transmission and engine are working very hard. Deep snow (more than 1.5 feet) pretty much require 4low. It tows an 1800 lbs enclosed trailer okay... But I wouldn't even consider it with 35's. Sure it would do it, but not well, and it's going to wear the drivetrain out much soon than it should. I actually started to consider stepping down to 32's as my next set of tires to relieve the tranny and help performance, until I decided to just regear.
Maybe it's just me, but that extra 1" of ground clearance isn't worth not being able to use my truck as a truck in 4high, and tow things comfortable. I've never found myself somewhere saying, "sh%t, I could have made it through/over that if I had 35's instead of 33's". I'm regearing the sport trac this week to 4.88's (4.56 would be more ideal). With 4.88's, I'll still be able to run 35's comfortably and tow with no problems.
I just think that, while running 35's and 4.10's, you lose more than you gain.
Now everyone who is running that combo, don't get all butthurt about my opinion, it's just my opinion.
I suppose if you just drive your truck on the freeway empty, 35's and 4.10's may be okay. But again, why run 35's if you're just commuting?
Last edited by brianjwilson; 04-01-2008 at 11:57 PM.
#24
No lol, I had a Mazda 3 with 2.3L engine. Like I know a truck is going to be slower and stuff but I would still expect a little more kick from it. Like when going to pass somebody when doing 100 km (60miles) I don't have to down shift which is nice unless I need to rush to pass but I still expected more power. My friend says wait until you tow something and don't notice a loss of power, thats where a truck will perform.
Sorry for hijack but just saying my feelings
Sorry for hijack but just saying my feelings
Stock it wasn't too bad on my truck, but now when I got my intake/headers/exhaust installed... I really rip roar when it comes to going fast, most especially if I down shift, I can hit the 60mph to 80mph in just a few short bits.
I havent ever done a 0-60 before.. the low end is sort of sucky.. from 1500-2000ish RPMs I can feel it wanting to heat up a bit, but past that its jsut an amazing change.
I suppose thats what is holding alot of our engine back, the stock air systems arent bad for a casual driver, but if your looking to open it up a bit, you feel the difference hands down
#25
I guess its all in the mods.. think airflow... Intake to Headers to Exhaust...
Stock it wasn't too bad on my truck, but now when I got my intake/headers/exhaust installed... I really rip roar when it comes to going fast, most especially if I down shift, I can hit the 60mph to 80mph in just a few short bits.
I havent ever done a 0-60 before.. the low end is sort of sucky.. from 1500-2000ish RPMs I can feel it wanting to heat up a bit, but past that its jsut an amazing change.
I suppose thats what is holding alot of our engine back, the stock air systems arent bad for a casual driver, but if your looking to open it up a bit, you feel the difference hands down
Stock it wasn't too bad on my truck, but now when I got my intake/headers/exhaust installed... I really rip roar when it comes to going fast, most especially if I down shift, I can hit the 60mph to 80mph in just a few short bits.
I havent ever done a 0-60 before.. the low end is sort of sucky.. from 1500-2000ish RPMs I can feel it wanting to heat up a bit, but past that its jsut an amazing change.
I suppose thats what is holding alot of our engine back, the stock air systems arent bad for a casual driver, but if your looking to open it up a bit, you feel the difference hands down