2003 Ranger with 5R44E transmission problems
#1
2003 Ranger with 5R44E transmission problems
Hello all, I've been reading here and elsewhere about the transmissions on these trucks and the problems they have. I have a 2003 Ranger with the 3.0 engine and the 5R44E tranny, it's having problems going into forward and reverse, but if you shift it into 1 or 2, then back to D, it will sometimes go.
What I have found others mentioning seems to be bad gaskets on the valve body, or a bad one way clutch. Is there a way of being more confident which one it likely is? I feel I could replace the gaskets on the valve body if I can get access to a lift or a pit, but if it's the one way clutch, it looks like I'd have to drop the whole tranny, and I believe that is beyond my skill. Would like to get this truck up and going, if it is worth fixing. Has about 250,000+ miles on it, fwiw
What I have found others mentioning seems to be bad gaskets on the valve body, or a bad one way clutch. Is there a way of being more confident which one it likely is? I feel I could replace the gaskets on the valve body if I can get access to a lift or a pit, but if it's the one way clutch, it looks like I'd have to drop the whole tranny, and I believe that is beyond my skill. Would like to get this truck up and going, if it is worth fixing. Has about 250,000+ miles on it, fwiw
#2
All automatics run on Pressure, all of them
Reverse requires the highest Pressure which is why people often notice a problem first when Reverse is slow to engage, or no Reverse at all.
So leaking gaskets and seals do what...........lower the pressure, lol
Transmission shops can hook up an automatic to pressure gauges(there are test ports on all automatics) and read the various pressure in each gear selection.
But all in all your symptoms are classic low pressure signs.
Replacing valve body with the newer bonded gasket type "could" fix the problem but my guess would be it would be a temporary fix for a few reasons.
When pressure gets low people tend to push the gas pedal down more, lol, this increases the pressure but also burns out the clutches as they are slipping from lower pressure.
Check transmission fluid and smell it, the slipping causes alot of heat so burns the fluid, changing it from a light red to darker red and even giving it a burnt smell.
If it is a darker red then my suggestion would be to do a rebuild, if you still have the lighter red then try the new valve body.
Assume trans fluid has been in there awhile, if just changed smell it, hard to get rid of that burnt smell
There is nothing better or worse about the 5R44E trans than another other automatic, heat is what kills automatics, causes solenoid, gasket and seal failures.
Radiator trans coolers are minimum requirement, if you ever drive up hills or haul any loads then you have to have a 2nd trans cooler, best $60 you will ever spend
Reverse requires the highest Pressure which is why people often notice a problem first when Reverse is slow to engage, or no Reverse at all.
So leaking gaskets and seals do what...........lower the pressure, lol
Transmission shops can hook up an automatic to pressure gauges(there are test ports on all automatics) and read the various pressure in each gear selection.
But all in all your symptoms are classic low pressure signs.
Replacing valve body with the newer bonded gasket type "could" fix the problem but my guess would be it would be a temporary fix for a few reasons.
When pressure gets low people tend to push the gas pedal down more, lol, this increases the pressure but also burns out the clutches as they are slipping from lower pressure.
Check transmission fluid and smell it, the slipping causes alot of heat so burns the fluid, changing it from a light red to darker red and even giving it a burnt smell.
If it is a darker red then my suggestion would be to do a rebuild, if you still have the lighter red then try the new valve body.
Assume trans fluid has been in there awhile, if just changed smell it, hard to get rid of that burnt smell
There is nothing better or worse about the 5R44E trans than another other automatic, heat is what kills automatics, causes solenoid, gasket and seal failures.
Radiator trans coolers are minimum requirement, if you ever drive up hills or haul any loads then you have to have a 2nd trans cooler, best $60 you will ever spend
Last edited by RonD; 02-14-2017 at 11:33 AM.
#3
Thanks for the response. We didn't drive it much when it started acting up, and it was forward that was acting up first. I was pulling out of the driveway, and reverse went fine, but putting it into drive, the engine RPM went up a bit, and when I gave it gas, it was sluggish. I was able to shift back to park and then drive and get it to go, but after that, we only made a few other short trips for fear of it going out completely. It was on one of these short trips to get gas (2-3 blocks) that it wouldn't reverse.
I did notice the fluid was low, but didn't notice a burnt smell, I added the correct fluid as per the manual, thinking low fluid could also cause this, but it didn't fix it. If I'd need to rebuild the whole thing, for a truck with 200,000+ miles, it's probably going to cost more than the value of the truck, sadly. I have noticed the trans pan and surrounding undercarriage appears to have transmission fluid on it, so it looks like the pan gasket is leaking too. I was hoping I could spend $30-$50 in gaskets, and could get access to a pit or lift, I could get the old beast up and going, but if it's likely to only be temporary, is it even going to be worth it?
Would Autozone have the gauges in their loaner tool program? The local DIY shop closed down unfortunately, so I no longer have that option. Just trying to go over all avenues, and see if it's worth fixing, or if I should sell it. I've never rebuilt a transmission before, but do have basic mechanic skills and tools, so I don't know if I'd be getting in over my head or not, and I'd still have to find a lift or means to get under it and get the trans out and back in.
Thanks for any help.
I did notice the fluid was low, but didn't notice a burnt smell, I added the correct fluid as per the manual, thinking low fluid could also cause this, but it didn't fix it. If I'd need to rebuild the whole thing, for a truck with 200,000+ miles, it's probably going to cost more than the value of the truck, sadly. I have noticed the trans pan and surrounding undercarriage appears to have transmission fluid on it, so it looks like the pan gasket is leaking too. I was hoping I could spend $30-$50 in gaskets, and could get access to a pit or lift, I could get the old beast up and going, but if it's likely to only be temporary, is it even going to be worth it?
Would Autozone have the gauges in their loaner tool program? The local DIY shop closed down unfortunately, so I no longer have that option. Just trying to go over all avenues, and see if it's worth fixing, or if I should sell it. I've never rebuilt a transmission before, but do have basic mechanic skills and tools, so I don't know if I'd be getting in over my head or not, and I'd still have to find a lift or means to get under it and get the trans out and back in.
Thanks for any help.
#4
Then look for a used one.
5R44E was used in Rangers or Mazda B3000 from 2001 to 2008(end of the 3.0l Vulcan engine)
The 3.0l used a unique bellhousing so you can only use one from a 3.0l engine
And it has to be 2WD or 4WD matching what YOU HAVE, can't convert them.
And watch the name, I have seen 5R55E listed for 3.0l Rangers, a misprint by the seller, 3.0l only ever used the 5R44E, so if it is from a 3.0l then it is a 5R44E
Only the 4.0l used 5R55E
The 4R44E was from 2000 or earlier and won't work with your computer.
2.3l also used the 5R44E but bellhousing won't work with 3.0l
I love this video on how automatics work, not that long: www.youtube.com/watch?v=szu-0IqMygA
All the hard engineering has been done by Ford, so you do not need to be an expert, just to know how they work.
Pressure, pressure, pressure
They use electric solenoids now instead of plungers, so shifting can be better suited to drivers habits
5R44E was used in Rangers or Mazda B3000 from 2001 to 2008(end of the 3.0l Vulcan engine)
The 3.0l used a unique bellhousing so you can only use one from a 3.0l engine
And it has to be 2WD or 4WD matching what YOU HAVE, can't convert them.
And watch the name, I have seen 5R55E listed for 3.0l Rangers, a misprint by the seller, 3.0l only ever used the 5R44E, so if it is from a 3.0l then it is a 5R44E
Only the 4.0l used 5R55E
The 4R44E was from 2000 or earlier and won't work with your computer.
2.3l also used the 5R44E but bellhousing won't work with 3.0l
I love this video on how automatics work, not that long: www.youtube.com/watch?v=szu-0IqMygA
All the hard engineering has been done by Ford, so you do not need to be an expert, just to know how they work.
Pressure, pressure, pressure
They use electric solenoids now instead of plungers, so shifting can be better suited to drivers habits
Last edited by RonD; 02-16-2017 at 10:21 AM.
#6
#7
I just wanted to update everyone, the truck rides again! Spent $1400 to get the trans rebuilt, and it drives like a champ. The shop used the upgraded gaskets for the valve body, and replaced the clutches. I'll likely be back here, as I do most of my own basic maintenance (brakes, oil, lights, etc) and I'm sure there's something I'll need to ask about!
#9
You mentioned the mazda was also used for the same transmission. I have a 2.3l engine and was told it is still the 5r55e transmission. I am going to order a new rebuild kit and do it myself. I can't find a used transmission anywhere in my area. Will the Mazda version still bolt to my 2003 2.3l or is it a matter of changing bell housings? I havn't ripped it out of my truck yet, and didn't even know it had a removable bell housing.
#10
How hard is it to change the harness? How much harness are we talking about? That part scares me a little when I look at all the taped together wires that disappear through the vehicle. I have a 2003 2.3l ranger and it needs a full rebuild or another transmission, but no one in my area has any. So was curious what does match up to that 5r55e.
I was told all of them were 5r44e's but the 55e is just the replacer to the 44e after Ford worked out a bunch of problems with them. Not sure how accurate that is.
I was told all of them were 5r44e's but the 55e is just the replacer to the 44e after Ford worked out a bunch of problems with them. Not sure how accurate that is.
#11
5r = 5-speed automatic
44E is built for 2.3l or 3.0l engine, lighter duty
55E was ONLY built for 4.0l engine, heavy duty
5R55E would only be found with 4.0l bellhousing, for sure, 100%
But 5R44E is often called 5R55E generically
Previously there was 4R44E and 4R55E these were 4-speed automatics, and same difference
4R55E was only used with 4.0l engine
4R44E was used with 4cyl or 3.0l V6
One is not "Better" than the other, "heavy duty" does not mean "better" in this instance, just had a few different parts for 4.0l's higher torque
44E is built for 2.3l or 3.0l engine, lighter duty
55E was ONLY built for 4.0l engine, heavy duty
5R55E would only be found with 4.0l bellhousing, for sure, 100%
But 5R44E is often called 5R55E generically
Previously there was 4R44E and 4R55E these were 4-speed automatics, and same difference
4R55E was only used with 4.0l engine
4R44E was used with 4cyl or 3.0l V6
One is not "Better" than the other, "heavy duty" does not mean "better" in this instance, just had a few different parts for 4.0l's higher torque
#12
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post