Valve or injector issue?
#1
Valve or injector issue?
My engine trouble light came on. 2006 Ranger, 2.3L sport 4x2 automatic. Only 61,000 miles. Lately if truck is warm and shut off, when try to restart (warm) it turns over and over before finally starting. Otherwise seems to run fine.
Took it to dealer to check out engine trouble light. They ran some tests. Came back and said there is a problem either with injector(s) OR valve not fully seating.
They wanted another $200 to run a compression test to determine if it is value problem or not.
I asked what if it is a valve problem, what was it going to cost me. Straight faced he replied "Thousands". And, when I asked how much it would cost to repair if it was an injector, he said "A bit over one thousand".
Now, the engine warning light is off, the truck runs fine. Is this a problem? Should I be concerned? Should I have the $200 test run? Or is someone pulling my chain because I am obviously not a mechanic.
Not sure where to go with this, or if this is something my son (who tinkers with cars) could do on a Sunday afternoon.
Took it to dealer to check out engine trouble light. They ran some tests. Came back and said there is a problem either with injector(s) OR valve not fully seating.
They wanted another $200 to run a compression test to determine if it is value problem or not.
I asked what if it is a valve problem, what was it going to cost me. Straight faced he replied "Thousands". And, when I asked how much it would cost to repair if it was an injector, he said "A bit over one thousand".
Now, the engine warning light is off, the truck runs fine. Is this a problem? Should I be concerned? Should I have the $200 test run? Or is someone pulling my chain because I am obviously not a mechanic.
Not sure where to go with this, or if this is something my son (who tinkers with cars) could do on a Sunday afternoon.
#3
No knocking or ticking that I can hear. The other day I did think I saw a puff of greyish smoke drift by when I started it up, and another occasion when I accelerated from a stop light, but those could also have been just condensation from cold weather. Basically, no to either, or if there very slight.
#4
I would take your truck to a local garage (cheaper)....and have them do a fuel pressure check. If it is over 22psi, then you need a fuel pressure regulater...common problem with Ford engines. Other signs are, oil smells like fuel, grey smoke at start-up and acceleration, hard starting because engine is flooding out with fuel, spark plugs foul out
#5
DetroitMadSab74; Wouldn't the computer tests they ran point to a fuel pressure issue? The tests they ran were "pinpointed" to the two issues I mentioned. Is this related and would it "trick" the computer and mechanic into thinking it was a valve or injector problem? I would love for it to be that simple, but I have no fuel odor in oil, and any grey smoke is minor if even present. The only time there is hard starting is if engine is warm, otherwise it cranks right up. When warm it doesn't start rough, it just takes a lot of cranking before it fires up.
#6
Does this help: The report they gave me said "EEC test system, P0304,/P0300/P0316, Perform Pinpoint Tests, Determine either Injector(s) Sticking or Valve not fully seating, Requires further diagnostics "compression test)..." I called them this morning and they explained the compression test would either confirm or refute that there is a valve problem, thereby solving whether the issue is Injector or Valve problem. Please note that this truck runs great; no hesitations, no knocking, smooth accelerations, etc. The only reason there is even a discussion is because the engine trouble light came on.
#7
I am just going by what you are telling me....As I am not there to actually look at your engine. a fuel pressure regulator can only be detected by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. and when they start to go they can be very erratic. it is a lot cheaper then a injector or a head job. I have had one go on every Ford truck that I've ever owned for the last 25 years...sometimes they are barely working enough for your engine to run properly, sometimes they work great on a cold startup, sometimes they went out on me completely all together. I always try to have all the basics checked first before a big internal job
Last edited by DetroitMadSab74; 04-11-2014 at 10:56 AM.
#8
#9
Just as a correction fuel pressure for any ranger made after 1997 is 55-65 psi because they went to a returnless fuel system with an in tank regulator. 35 psi is normal on 97 and older rangers with a return type fuel system with regulator on the fuel rail.
Last edited by northshoreranger; 04-13-2014 at 01:26 AM.
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