2002 Ford Ranger XL, 4x2, 2.3L DOHC, 5spd Manual, +150,000 miles, no A/C

While removing sparkplugs for replacement, found a lots of oil standing in 2 of the sparkplug channels coming part way up the plug wire boots. Plugs were screwed down tight and were just being replaced for the first time.

Would this issue be limited to: 1) valve cover is cracked, or 2) valve cover gasket is leaking?

I'm suspecting gasket leakage. If so, how much of a "bear" is it to replace? I'm relatively mechanically inclined but my only experience is with my own vehicles (disc/drum brakes, tranny R&R, clutch replacement...).

Looks like removing the intake is the majority of the work (looks like I'ld have to take notes to make sure I could get all the connections reconnected correctly). I do have a Hanes manual, but all directions/instructions are broad based. Seems like I'ld probably have to set aside most of a day to do it. Thoughts???

AND, if I go through with replacing the valve cover gasket, if you guys think it's the issue, are there other things I might want to take care of right away in the way of preventive maintanence while in the middle of replacing the gasket?

All thoughts, comments, and suggestions will be appreciated!!! Please be detailed.



Thanks,
Craig

 

I've always seen it as the gasket needing replacing. I've never changed it on this truck, but should be very straight forward and easy.

 

perhaps tightening the bolts will help with some leakage

 

+1 on checking bolts.


Labor flat rate looks to be about 2.7 hours if gasket needs to be replaced.

Unless you're pretty familiar with engine repairs, this might be a good investment:



Factory service books are the best, but some of the cheap repair books are decent.

 

Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.
Remove the intake manifold assembly. For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold in this section.
Position aside the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor boot.

Disconnect the CHT sensor electrical connector.

Disconnect the engine wiring harness from the valve cover studs.

Remove the spark plug wires. For additional information, refer to Section 303-07A.
Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connector.

Remove the bolts and the ignition coil.

Disconnect the camshaft position sensor.

Remove the camshaft position sensor.

Remove the crankcase ventilation tube.

Remove the bolts and the valve cover.

Remove the valve cover gaskets, if necessary.

CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths.

Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.
Installation

Install new valve cover gaskets, if removed.

Install the valve cover and bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

Install the crankcase ventilation tube.

NOTE: Apply clean engine oil to the O-ring to aid in installation.

Install the camshaft position sensor.

Connect the camshaft position sensor.

Install the ignition coil and the bolts.

Connect the ignition coil electrical connector.

Install the spark plug wires. For additional information, refer to Section 303-07A.
Install the engine wiring harness onto the valve cover studs.

Connect the cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor electrical connector.

Position back the CHT sensor boot.

Install the intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold in this section.
Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

 

Thanks to all! Will definately have to check bolt tightness, didn't even think of that. Any other comments are welcome. I'll let you know how bolt tightness turned out in the next day or two. I'll make sure to use the torque wrench in case they feel tight but really are not.

 

What is the size of the screws on the
covers