Coolant Recovery Tank Hose - broken tee
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06-08-2016
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Georgetown
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Coolant Recovery Tank Hose - broken tee
2.3 Duratec DOHC, 5 spd
The dreaded tee issue (something I was unaware of until it broke) has my Ranger out of commission. I'll have details on the problem below, but here are my questions - I'm hoping someone here has already replaced this obnoxious hose.
1. If the intake manifold is removed, will I be able to reach the back hose (it has something to do with the EGR)?
2. Will I need to drop or lower the tranny to get access to the back hose?
Here is some of the info I've picked up online:
Most people seem to say the exhaust manifold and intake manifold need to be removed, in addition to the compressor and the alternator.
Most people online do a hack job and fix the tee (made out of the plastic that gets brittle, I think I've replaced all the other plastic parts in the engine already). I want to replace the whole hose assembly because I think it's just a matter of time before the hoses rot too (it is getting old).
This is the hose:
MOTORCRAFT KM4720 {#3L548C633BB, 3L5Z8C633BA}
Coolant Recovery Tank Hose
The hose starts at the bottom of the coolant reservoir, has two bolt mounts on the exhaust manifold studs, has a tee to connect to the heater core, curves around the back of the engine, then curves back toward the front on the driver side under the intake manifold, then there is a tee, the broken one, with a small line that runs up behind the engine, the hose then ends at the thermostat housing. There is very little room between the engine and the firewall to get to that hose.
I have the compressor, alternator, and bracket removed. The bolts are off the exhaust manifold.
I'm trying to figure out if I need to remove the intake manifold or drop the tranny to get access to the little hose that runs up the back of the engine.
Here are some pictures I grabbed from the web:
The tee that breaks:
And the quick fix option:
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
TIA
The dreaded tee issue (something I was unaware of until it broke) has my Ranger out of commission. I'll have details on the problem below, but here are my questions - I'm hoping someone here has already replaced this obnoxious hose.
1. If the intake manifold is removed, will I be able to reach the back hose (it has something to do with the EGR)?
2. Will I need to drop or lower the tranny to get access to the back hose?
Here is some of the info I've picked up online:
Most people seem to say the exhaust manifold and intake manifold need to be removed, in addition to the compressor and the alternator.
Most people online do a hack job and fix the tee (made out of the plastic that gets brittle, I think I've replaced all the other plastic parts in the engine already). I want to replace the whole hose assembly because I think it's just a matter of time before the hoses rot too (it is getting old).
This is the hose:
MOTORCRAFT KM4720 {#3L548C633BB, 3L5Z8C633BA}
Coolant Recovery Tank Hose
The hose starts at the bottom of the coolant reservoir, has two bolt mounts on the exhaust manifold studs, has a tee to connect to the heater core, curves around the back of the engine, then curves back toward the front on the driver side under the intake manifold, then there is a tee, the broken one, with a small line that runs up behind the engine, the hose then ends at the thermostat housing. There is very little room between the engine and the firewall to get to that hose.
I have the compressor, alternator, and bracket removed. The bolts are off the exhaust manifold.
I'm trying to figure out if I need to remove the intake manifold or drop the tranny to get access to the little hose that runs up the back of the engine.
Here are some pictures I grabbed from the web:
The tee that breaks:
And the quick fix option:
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
TIA
Last edited by jmarlowe; 06-09-2016 at 03:43 AM.
#2
06-09-2016
I chose the hack version of this using a Sharkbite brass Tee (UC417LF) until I finally have the time to do it correctly and replace the entire hose.
But here's a post from another forum (not sure if you found this in your searching or not) where they didn't have to remove a lot of stuff to get it done.
But here's a post from another forum (not sure if you found this in your searching or not) where they didn't have to remove a lot of stuff to get it done.
I just replaced this hose on 2002 Ranger, 2.3, 5-speed and the job is not as daunting as it first appears. I tried to do too much from above and wasted a lot of time.
From above, remove the hose from the overflow tank and the thermostat housing. Then put it on jack stands go underneath. Remove the first exhaust section and get it out of the way. I wasted a lot time trying to work around it. Remove the dipstick tube. Remove the heater hose from where it attaches to the pipe. Remove the nuts holding the pipe portion of the hose to the exhaust manifold studs. Put a jack under the transmission crossmember and remove the crossmember bolts. Lower the transmission down until the rear of the motor almost touches the firewall. Remove the small hose from where it connects at the rear of the engine. There isn't much room but I was able to get a couple of fingers in there and squeeze the spring clamp together and get it off. Now you can remove the hose/pipe assembly. Pay close attention to how the pipe comes out because it will only go back the same way. Reverse all of the above steps to put it back together.
I spent almost a whole Sunday doing this job but now that I have it under my belt, I think I could do it in under 2 hours.
From above, remove the hose from the overflow tank and the thermostat housing. Then put it on jack stands go underneath. Remove the first exhaust section and get it out of the way. I wasted a lot time trying to work around it. Remove the dipstick tube. Remove the heater hose from where it attaches to the pipe. Remove the nuts holding the pipe portion of the hose to the exhaust manifold studs. Put a jack under the transmission crossmember and remove the crossmember bolts. Lower the transmission down until the rear of the motor almost touches the firewall. Remove the small hose from where it connects at the rear of the engine. There isn't much room but I was able to get a couple of fingers in there and squeeze the spring clamp together and get it off. Now you can remove the hose/pipe assembly. Pay close attention to how the pipe comes out because it will only go back the same way. Reverse all of the above steps to put it back together.
I spent almost a whole Sunday doing this job but now that I have it under my belt, I think I could do it in under 2 hours.
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