Hi, first time for me changing a fuel filter on this truck and I have 2 questions:

1) What is the easiest/safest way to depressurize the fuel system?

2) Will I need a special tool on this particular vehicle to remove the old filter?

Thanks
Carsten / CT

 

1. Shut the truck off. Allow to cool. Look under hood for fuel rail. Locate Schrader Valve on fuel rail. Remove cap and release presure. (small amount of fuel may come out)

2. Yes there is a special tool. Autozone sells a pack of them for a couple dollars. They make it a ton easyer.

 

Many Thanks, Jason... that is very helpful. Like you truck btw.

Rgds,
Carsten

 

Anytime

If you have a Digi Cam take some photos and do a little write up and I'll make it into a HowTo!

 

Oh yes that could be done - got a cam. What is this special tool actually used for, I saw pictures of it and can't make any sense out of what's so special about it... can I do it without?

 

You can also take a flat screwdriver and pop the inertia switch while the truck is running. It's located by the pass footwell. Should be a red button with a slit under it. It'll cut off the fuel to the engine. Then just push the switch back in when you want to restart.

You can do it without the tool, but the tools makes it safer. It's an A/C and fuel line tool, Sears has a universal one for like 15 bucks.

I did mine without the tool, but if you break the clips you're screwed.

 

The tool slides over the tube and push's in to release the clips inside. Like Carl said, it *can* be done with out it but its more difficult and if you break it thats a 600 dollar part (approx dont quote me on that) because you need new lines from the front back.

 

Carl, thank you, too, for the tips... looks like the tool might be a good investment since I plan on keeping the truck for a little while longer.

 

Okay, youse got me convinced... I'll go get the tool and make some digi-pics for you, Jason. I'll keep you posted how I make out

Cheers,
Carsten

 

I did not have the tool, but I did buy it very soon after I changed the fuel filter the first time. That should say something!

 

i changed mind and didnt have too much trouble, but i also didnt know it would have cost me about $600 if i screwed up....in the future ill be using a tool.

 

when all was said and done it cost almost $500 for the filter, new lines, and labor. not something that makes you happy

 

so i take it thier not located inside the fuel tank like on some trucks..thats good..ive done a few of those, pain in the ***!

 

Maybe my quick disconnects are different, but I didn't use a tool. It took me about 15 minutes and I had never done a fuel filter before. Two of the lines had these colored things. I just pushed in on them with a screwdriver and slid them off. The third line just had a replaceable clip that I popped out with the same screw driver. I have a tool, but I didn't see how exactly it would do anything on the quick disconnects that I have, so I didn't use it. It has been 5K miles since I changed the filter and no leaks or damaged lines. I don't know if I just got lucky or if my disconnects are different.

To depressureize the lines, I just pulled the fuel pump fuse and started the truck. Before I restarted it, I put the fuse back in and turned the key to on, but did not start the truck so that the fuel pump could run for a little bit.

 

There are 2 different ones..
Snap rings (2002+ maybe some 2001's)
and the clip ones that have the plastic clip.

I changed "thatguy's" 2000 fuel filter in about 15min after autozone gave him
the right one.

Mine with the snap rings sucked.. Broke the tool... got pissed at it and finally
got it with a giant pair of needlenose pliers. about 2 hours.

The easiest way i found to release the fuel pressure is to pull the fuel pump fuse
then start the truck let it run till it stalls.

Rand

 

I guess I don't have the snap rings then. I can't remember the exact colors, but one inlet line had a green "button" and the other had an orange "button" I think. Pushing in on the buttons was all it took to get the lines off.

 

those are the snap rings.
The old style involved prying a plastic clip off..

Rand

 

I have both. The two inlet lines are snap rings. The outlet is a replaceable clip. How exactly is the tool susposed to get the lines off? A screw driver worked just fine for me, but I don't want to break anything next time.

 

Hi Alan, how the tool works was explained in post #7. I remember my '99 Taurus didn't need the tool but the newer Rangers (and some Chryslers) seem to need it. Like was said, the tool goes for under 12 bucks, new fuel lines for 40-50 times that much... I think it's prudent to use the tool if you have the connection which requires it.

Thanks all for the depressurization tips... seems to me pulling the "fuse" is the way to go... I don't want to mess with valves unless I'm certain I know what I'm doing; same goes for the inertia switch, which would be my second choice. Again, thank you all for the many helpful tips.

Carsten / Connecticut

 

I saw the post and I have the tool, I just don't see how it is needed at all for my fuel line quick disconnects...

Just to clarify, these are the ones I am talking about....


I bought the tool before hand, but it didn't have clear directions and I didn't really see how it was susposed to remove the lines. I used a screw driver and got the job done in less than 15 minutes with no damage. Did I get lucky or am I talking about a different kind of disconnect?

 

Well I will have to leave it up to the other guys to tell you about your particular connection as I haven't gotten to do the job yet and don't know if mine look similar. I assume (!) that you use the tool as follows:

1) Using the correct size tool for your line, close the tool around the line so the "lips" of [the tool] face the connection

2) push lips inside the connection, then slightly pry the tool open; this will losen the clip's tension and allow you to disconnect the filter from the line

That's about the only way this tool makes sense to me but PLEASE if someone knows better please correct me on this!!! I will get to the job sometime this week and make some pics of how it looks on my 2001.

 

Yeah, you need the tool for those type. I've done it without, but you are risking it. For 15 bucks, it's worth the piece of mind.

You close them around it, then push away from the filter. There are circular springs (like spring o rings) that the tool "opens up" so that the connections slide past. Easier shown than explained.

 

When I did it, I just pushed the green thing down and the line popped right off. Nothing had to go inside of it. It doesn't look like there is a spring inside, but maybe I just can't see it. I will try the tool next time I guess. The way I did it, I don't think it is even possible to do damage. You don't have to pry on anything, just push down on the green thing (from the outside). How would that damage the line? I can see how trying to pry at it from the inside of the connector could do damage, but not how pressing down on the green part from the outside would.

 

Carl, looks like you know what you're talking about... will you need the tool to re-connect the new filter to the hoses or will the hose just slide onto the connector without tool?

 

Nope, they just pop right back on.

I also took a small screwdriver to pry them off the first time, but I got the tool b/c I'm not a gambling man! It's possible to pop them off like pacodiablo did, but if you crack the ends the whole line is toast. An absolutely retarded design I guess....