Once it starts it runs fine. Went to Walmart the other day ran great. But won't start on it's own.
I have replaced the fuel sending unit, fuel filter and throttle position sensor. It's not throwing any codes. My next guess would be coolant temp sensor (I would think that would throw a code?). ..and then crank position sensor but I wouldn't think if that was bad I'd be able to drive around smoothly once it's running..?
Any ideas?

 

Welcome to the forum


ECT sensor is a maybe, if it is showing Warmed up engine all the time the computer would think you were just restarting after short shut down time, so there would be no codes, but.........
It would start up normally, no ether needed, when it was already warmed up, and you don't mention if start up is a cold or warm issue.

Yes, won't be CKP(crank) sensor, or CPS(cam sensor) issues

Crank cold engine, no ether, then pull out a spark plug and see if it is wet with fuel, it should be.

 

Ok. Thanks.
Things have gotten worse. Checked plug after cranking and no fuel. Also no spark now.
I replaced coils plugs and wires. I am now thinking the computer is shot because there's no fuel nor spark at this point. ECU? Can pick up a new one for $120...or am i just grasping at straws still?

 

1996 no spark and no fuel BOTH would be Crank sensor now.

So it no longer starts when you add fuel manually to intake?

You can test crank sensor with Volt Meter
Set Meter to AC volts
Tap wires at crank sensor, sewing needles work, or unplug crank sensor and test directly

When engine is cranking you should see about .5-.9 voltAC, usually under 1 volt, depends on crank speed.
You can unhook fan belt for testing, lol, take fan out of the picture


Engine Computers rarely fail, but rarely is not never
You can pull it out and open the top
Look at circuit board, a failing computer will usually have signs of discoloration on the circuit board, leaking capacitors is common sign, or dark areas were parts have heated up

 

If this was my truck I would do some basic diagnostics, checking for spark with a single spark plug may not be conclusive especially if you do not have the spark plug grounded.

I would pick up some inexpensive diagnostic tools that can be obtained as a loaner from most parts stores you get a refund once you return them.

Tools you should have for a quick and effective diagnostic session are as follows.

Inline spark tester
Noid light set
Fuel pressure test kit
12 volt computer safe test light
Digital volt ohm meter
a factory service manual http://alldatadiy.com/?affiliate_id=..._id=2079050840

And for good measure a compression test kit yet it does not sound like a compression issue but since your issue has gotten worse with the lack of spark it is best to know your engine has compression and a good timing belt.


The above mentioned tools and links to these tools and or factory service manual subscription I provided a link to just so you and anyone that reading this thread knows what I am talking about.

These tools are not the brand I am recommending or the place to buy them I did not research these tools or reviews etc to know if any of them are worth buying I posted the links for reference only.

If these tools or ones like them are used properly it will make our mission of helping you effectively that much easier without the need for guessing of what could or could not be causing your problem when we do not have the results for these basic test you should run.

Our advice for no spark no fuel may lead us in one direction but if you add in no injector reference pulse and no compression that would lead us in an entirely different direction.

So my advice here is keep your problem simple for now get these tools as a loaner so you will not have to loose money on tools you will only use every once in a while. run the basic diagnostic test to determine exactly what your truck has and does not have to make it run.

Some of these tools may never be needed or used depending on what you find with the basic diagnostics.

In order of what I would check first

Battery voltage and charge level ( since you have been cranking the engine over ) DVOM is important here.

Spark at each cylinder with the inline spark tester

Fuel pressure

Then remove each spark plug and inspect each spark plug, while each plug is out perform a compression test.

Most timing belts fail during cranking so it is not a stretch of the imagination that your belt could have stripped some teeth during your diagnostic session.

All of the information provided above may seem like common sense to you but to others just getting their toes wet with diagnostics reading this post it may be helpful knowing what tools they should have at their disposal when they begin working on their broken down Ranger.

So please if some of this seems trivial to you, do not take it has a insult to your mechanical ability I wrote to benefit other members or lurkers that may need to know.

 

1994 Ranger Splash 2.3L - 5-speed - 2wd - standard-cab: With no previous issues, truck just died.

A 'mechanic' said it needed a new fuel pump, so I replaced it. Nothing. My own inspection found a broken timing-belt - LOL.

Replaced it & drove fine for several weeks. Truck died again & wouldn't re-start. Tried ether (super tiny shot) & started right up. Ran perfect for many weeks, then same thing happens. Good a couple weeks & happens again - ugh.

Becomes a pattern, that's more frequent as time passes. Sometimes doesn't do it for 3-10 days, then does it 8 times in one day. Lately, it's been requiring more ether & at times it take numerous attempts. Immediately after starting everything is usually fine, but 'sometimes' I hear what sounds like bearing-rattle or floppy-lifters or something? Sounds like top of motor I think, but hood is usually closed by then. Very strange.

It also doesn't seem to be triggered by anything in particular. It's happened when engine hot & cold. After long-sitting & very-quick stops. Hot weather, cool weather & cold weather. Dry, raining & snowing. Parked up-hill down-hill, level of off camber.


There're several different approaches listed here. With my additional information - any idea which path I should begin with? Truck seems to run fine, once it's going. Once, during the very early stages of this, the check engine light came on, but I assume was triggered by something with the ether? It went out after about 5-minutes, as I was driving to Auto Zone to get it diagnosed, so I ignored it. It hasn't come on since, though the problem is now happening several time a day.