Just picked up this ranger the other day;

2004 Ranger
2.3l
5 Speed
288k miles

Drove it around for 3 hours, ran great, shifts great etc.

Drove to auto parts store to get fresh oil and filter to do oil change, wont start back up. I didn't have much time to mess with it last night, I did however, try starting fluid in the air intake, it did turn over/run rough as figured. From here, my plan is to get a fuel pressure gauge/test kit, and test my fuel pressure on the rail via the schrader valve. This will determine if im getting fuel to the rail/motor.

I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when i turn the key.

Also, figured i would replace the fuel filter also, the inline one between the gas tank and the rail.

Your thoughts? Advice/opinions welcomed.

I think this clears the 50/50 test ive seen mentioned several times here, but im not a mechanic, just a semi handy guy with tools.

 

Welcome to the forum

Have to ask...............................is it out of gas?

Did YOU put gas in or are you just relying on gas gauge?

I've wasted hours because of broken gas gauges, assuming there gas in the tank, lol, NEVER ASSUME there is gas in the tank

The 50/50 test showed Spark and compression are OK, it fired up/started
So yes you have a fuel delivery issue

There is only one fuel filter, in the frame rail under drivers seat area

 

RonD, I spent 3 hours yesterday reading the forums, after reading all of your replies to every other thread while at work, YOUR the MAN! You know your stuff in and out.

We did put gas in first, 4 gallons from the station. Lost half a gallon getting those in .

I was able to replace the fuel filter, and it fired right up. My assumption at this time, is trucks old, needed a new one anyways, probably clogged. Ill be replacing the fuel pump and sender unit soon anyways, the gauge isnt reading on the dash, Ive been told that will fix that. What are your thoughts ?

Thanks!

Warren

 

"Lost half a gal. putting those in", so filler hose leaks?

In a 2004 Ranger(and up to 2011) you have a digital dash, an HEC(hybrid electronic cluster)

So you can test the gauges to see if they are working
Google: ford HEC test

There are a few videos and How-tos to test gauge "sweep", to make sure fuel gauge needle/motor is not broken

But yes, the fuel pump assembly has the fuel sender and pump AND FPR(fuel pressure regulator) in it
If gauge shows Empty all the time then could be the Float on the sender has a hole, so pump and FPR are fine, and its an easy fix, may also want to check the "sock", its a pre-filter on the fuel pump

Best DYI method to get to fuel pump assembly is to unbolt the bed and either slide it back or tilt it up
If you have a shop with lift and transmission jack you can drop the gas tank down, but its a real pain to get the hoses and wires off and then back on when reinstalling

Many videos on changing fuel pump assembly on Rangers, pretty much every year is the same for this
I do recommend Motorcraft pumps, because these are so much work to swap, they are silly expensive but..............they work for alot of years

 

Lost half a gallon because the container with the gas, has the new push down nozzles that require you to push it down while pouring LAME! however, its all good.

I will look into the gauge cluster tests this weekend when i have more free time. I drove it to work today, did great.

Thank you so much for breaking down the different routes to go with the cluster, as WELL as every SINGLE POST you have made on this forum for however long you have been posting for. I know the other day i literally read your name 200 times, and was hoping youd respond to mine.

Your information is awesome. Much appreciated. Id buy you a beer or several. Anytime.

Salute.

 

Nice of you to say, thank you

 

Change out the receiver for the pats anti theft, it should go out in a year or two if your uses the older style and not newer stuff and if 2005 if i remember right, ( was told by ron) does not have any anti theft, a while back my receiver left me stranded so i had to replace it, get an 05 (correct if im wrong) pcm for that configuration so anti theft isnt an issue, sofar been racing around figured out tuning that pcm, and on a non rebuilt 238k motor with a t3 turbo making 8 psi and 266 hp its running nice and strong and on the last oil change still nothing coming out, make sure to take the valve cover off and make sure the timing chain is strong, those are the reason the 2.3l duratec will die, thee primary one at least, Ron please take note on the timing chain with the duratecs, ive serviced 9 more duratec rangers with the 2.3, the avg for the chain or tensioner to fail is about 245-375k miles, the 375620 mile ranger had a semi loose chain due to the tensioner but the 288k had a bad chain on it