hi

i was chillin at my local audio shop and heard of a new way to install subs...its called clamshelling them

ok..take a box built for ONE sub...place it in the hole like u normally would..then, take another sub (same brand, kind...derr) and place it where the two cones are facing each other...then wire the sub hanging out out of phase (fase...sp?)...

the results are subs hitting hard

anyone heard/done this?

 

yeah, its been around a while. it's to basically save space if needed. i was going to either do a clam shell or isobaric enclosure to fit in the center of my truck (in the rear).. then said the hell with it, and did 2 sealed instead, lol.

EDIT: and oh yeah, lol, you had the spelling right the first time "phase"

 

so this will actually work? i may have just figured out my space problems with sub boxes! haha

will the output be any louder than the 2 subs in a regular box?

 

wouldn't that defeat the purpose? How would they move air?

 

the move the same amount

its just that they're pounding against each other....

 

you've got to be careful when building one. the bottom sub has to have a certain enclosure size (forget what exactly you need to look for). but no, there wont be any difference or gain. itll basically look like one sub in the end, but with that extra 3dB of the second within

 

so, really not worth it?

just for a "look what i got" type setup?

 

its called an isobaric design....

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Another enclosure design that you may hear of is isobaric. Isobaric is not actually an enclosure type but a woofer loading method. Isobaric loading can be used in conjunction with any of the enclosure types, except perhaps infinite baffle. Isobaric loading consists of two woofers coupled together by a short enclosure which is only long enough to prevent the two woofers from striking one another. The woofers may be mounted face to face, back to back or front to back. It is important however to have the woofers firing in phase with one another. In order to accomplish this with the woofers firing front to front or back to back one of the woofers speaker leads must be reversed with respect to the other woofer.

Isobaric loading is usually used when space is at a minimum or a maximum number of woofers wish to be used in a certain volume of space. By isobarically loading the woofers, a box of only half the size of a one woofer box is needed. For example, if a 12" woofer requires a two cubic foot box, the same 12" woofer isobarically loaded only requires a one cubic foot box. The cost of this design, other than doubling the woofer cost, is a reduction in the subwoofer system efficiency by three decibels (if both woofers are given the same power as a single woofer), which is equivalent to halving the amplifier power. New, small box subwoofer designs have all but negated the need for isobaric loading in car audio and it has fallen out of popularity.
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if youre short on room, this might be good, but youre gonna lose some dB, not gain any.

 

Wow... somebody on this site knows somehting about audio... for a moment there I thought it was going to be another group of bumbling idiots guessing at what "clamshelling" might actually look like...

 

hehe . all i knew is that it is an isobaric setup. i got that info from here:

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/custom_c...udio_boxes.htm

 

lol

 

sweet guys

whats it called when the subs are mounted in reverse? with the magnets hanging out of the box?

does that work good?

anyway...i'm tight on space, and i got 2 10's that i still want in my truck...

 

Just buy the box i had custom made, and you'll be alright. I broke my sliding glass window with mine.

1000w Sony Xplod 12"
And a Kenwood 600w amp.

lol...

 

i dont have to guess.. i know what they are. ive built one before. tuning is bad if you're not exactly to spec

 

mounting the subs with the magnets out won't do anything, performance wise. some do it for looks, some do it for a slightly smaller box in the end. its easier to build a box to the certain volume needed, and reverse mount them, if you're not sure how to take away the amount of volume a sub will take up when mounted in the box.

Example: you have a sub, and it calls for a 1ft^3 sealed enclosure. you're not certain of the volume of the sub. reverse mounting the sub on the sealed enclosure will allow you to keep that 1ft^3 of airspace you built the box to (with the exception of the new added volume within the sub cone ((usually small enough not to make a difference))).

 

sweet

i looked at those progrms on building u're own box...i mite try that

basically, i want to end up with a "false floor" in the extended cab portion of the truck, with the subs revers mounted there

i dont want the box to be tall, or cumbersome, i still want complete function of my seats...

i also, dont really care if i end up with a big bumping system....something just nicely add the tone of bass....

 

Then just go with a high powered single 12 or 15", sealed if you want it tight, ported for rap bass. Forget the isobaric box. Keep it simple, yet effective.


Speaking of boxes, where's your box Channing?

Also, if a sub is mounted basket out, it can also help to keep the coil cool, especially when compared to a small sealed setup. But moreso looks.

 

well, i already have my 2 10's that i love, and i dont want anything else..just for me to use them, and they not get in my way...

i'm sure type s's dont need all that much airspace anyway

 

So far with college full time, work full time and household responsibilities piling up, (we're selling our house soon), I've only got the second piece for the sides cut out. I've got a friend coming over to help me rip a board, so I can get the back, bottom, and whatever else on there before I glass the top and front. I wont be able to get my sub until next semester, though. College is freakin' expensive. A friend of mine is giving me an HCCA 250 so I can get my system up running asap. I'll try to post some pics of it when it's done!