in need of sub box just purchased sub/amp :)
#1
06-02-2008
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Roseville, CA
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in need of sub box just purchased sub/amp :)
Well I decided it was worth it to get a sub and amp for my truck since I'm in need of some bass.
I got the following:
Sub: Pioneer TS-W307D2
12" speaker
1200 watt max
400 watts RMS
two dual 2ohm vocie coils(4 ohms total)
Amp: Pioneer GM-5300T
760 max watts
360 watts RMS bridged at 4 ohms
Now I just need to find a decent box that will go into my extened cab 2000 XLT ranger with jump seats in the back. I'd prefer to have the sub box in the center behind the console.
At first i was thinking of picking up one of these at our local walmart:
Scosche Build-Your-Own 12" Subwoofer Enclosure, SE12KT for $35.99
However I'm not exactly sure if it will fit in the back as it will be firing towards the console and there's not really any place to put the amp. If I have to I suppose i could stick the pioneer amp under the seat and run wires to the enclosure. Also I'm almost tempted to get a box that has the woofer on top so it fires straight up. Not sure if that a good thing? I would like to be able to move my seats back still as well. Does anyone else have any suggestions for low cost boxes to complete my setup?
I got the following:
Sub: Pioneer TS-W307D2
12" speaker
1200 watt max
400 watts RMS
two dual 2ohm vocie coils(4 ohms total)
Amp: Pioneer GM-5300T
760 max watts
360 watts RMS bridged at 4 ohms
Now I just need to find a decent box that will go into my extened cab 2000 XLT ranger with jump seats in the back. I'd prefer to have the sub box in the center behind the console.
At first i was thinking of picking up one of these at our local walmart:
Scosche Build-Your-Own 12" Subwoofer Enclosure, SE12KT for $35.99
However I'm not exactly sure if it will fit in the back as it will be firing towards the console and there's not really any place to put the amp. If I have to I suppose i could stick the pioneer amp under the seat and run wires to the enclosure. Also I'm almost tempted to get a box that has the woofer on top so it fires straight up. Not sure if that a good thing? I would like to be able to move my seats back still as well. Does anyone else have any suggestions for low cost boxes to complete my setup?
#2
06-03-2008
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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#3
06-03-2008
For 35.99 + tax, you could probably do better by just building your own.
Parts list:
1. 4x8 sheet of MDF (Have them cut it to two 4x4's for easier handling)
2. Glue, Gorilla Glue or Polyurethane glue works great to expand and seal gaps.
3. Big box of Screws (like 100-200). Get about 1.25-1.5" long, sheet metal or wood screws.
4. Speaker Wire / Wire terminals, etc. Although I recommend just drilling a small hole and running speaker wire directly through a wall. This gives you one less connection that can go wrong.
Tools needed:
1. Compound Mitre saw / Circular Saw / Jigsaw (the more the merrier)
2. Electric Drill
3. Straight Edge
4. Vice or clamps to hold things in place while they dry.
Plans to build a box for regular cab:
Ideas on a Supercab box:
Parts list:
1. 4x8 sheet of MDF (Have them cut it to two 4x4's for easier handling)
2. Glue, Gorilla Glue or Polyurethane glue works great to expand and seal gaps.
3. Big box of Screws (like 100-200). Get about 1.25-1.5" long, sheet metal or wood screws.
4. Speaker Wire / Wire terminals, etc. Although I recommend just drilling a small hole and running speaker wire directly through a wall. This gives you one less connection that can go wrong.
Tools needed:
1. Compound Mitre saw / Circular Saw / Jigsaw (the more the merrier)
2. Electric Drill
3. Straight Edge
4. Vice or clamps to hold things in place while they dry.
Plans to build a box for regular cab:
Ideas on a Supercab box:
#4
06-04-2008
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Tampa Bay Area
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I dont reccomend mechanical bond glues for speaker boxes. Regular old wood glue forms a chemical bond with the wood and the wood will tare/brake before the bond does. Save your money, buy standard wood glue, and get a $1 tube of silicone to seal any gaps...or just cut your wood well and not have to worry about gaps.
:-)
:-)
#5
06-04-2008
Even if cuts are perfect it is always good to put some kind of sealer on it. One minor air leak can distort sound or have a whistle sound when the bass hits, which is a pain to deal with. Liquid nail is what we use at advanced audio. It works really well and bonds very well to the wood. I did have to use silicone one day and it is jus to messy to work with.
#6
06-04-2008
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Even if cuts are perfect it is always good to put some kind of sealer on it. One minor air leak can distort sound or have a whistle sound when the bass hits, which is a pain to deal with. Liquid nail is what we use at advanced audio. It works really well and bonds very well to the wood. I did have to use silicone one day and it is jus to messy to work with.
I didnt reccomend NOT using a sealant. I said save your money and just use wood glue because you arent gaining anything by paying $6 for a 4oz bottle of glue.
:-)
#8
06-04-2008
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It also says for metal, plastic, glass, cremics, etc...
Gorilla glue is an all purpose mechanical bond glue. Wood glue is glue for wood only. How does it work? Enzymes form a chemical bond. A good joint made with cheapie wood glue will be stronger than the wood itself. Why go out and buy stronger glue to get the same results?
#9
06-04-2008
We're talking MDF here, not a bookshelf. Plus gorilla glue is more fool proof and easier for any layman to use. Especially if you consider your target audience, a guy wanting to spend about 40 bucks on a sub box. We just want an easy reliable seal with some foolproofness.
Run a line of polyurethane glue on the joint, then clamp it. Then drill your holes and run screws every 1.5 inches. After that sets and dries, run an additional bead along the interior seam of the sub box. Then you pretty much have a bullet proof box. The MDF will crack before that joint will. Mechanical vs chemical won't matter.
Another good idea that looks good is to coat the exterior with bedliner spray. Looks tough, blends into the interior and also helps seal any air holes.
Run a line of polyurethane glue on the joint, then clamp it. Then drill your holes and run screws every 1.5 inches. After that sets and dries, run an additional bead along the interior seam of the sub box. Then you pretty much have a bullet proof box. The MDF will crack before that joint will. Mechanical vs chemical won't matter.
Another good idea that looks good is to coat the exterior with bedliner spray. Looks tough, blends into the interior and also helps seal any air holes.
#10
06-05-2008
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Roseville, CA
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hrm as of right now I just went ahead and bought that scosche box. which seems like it will work and be decent enough with 1.25 cubic feet.
I then found out that BNF861 on this forum had created a box that fits under the rear passenger jump seat. that seems like a better idea to me then the center console because I could hide it easily by putting out the seat. Also i would still be able to use both seats in the back if needed. Unfortunately i think the box i bought is just a little to tall at 13 1/8" deep at it longest side.
I'd also consider building a box but i don't really have the tools for it :(
I then found out that BNF861 on this forum had created a box that fits under the rear passenger jump seat. that seems like a better idea to me then the center console because I could hide it easily by putting out the seat. Also i would still be able to use both seats in the back if needed. Unfortunately i think the box i bought is just a little to tall at 13 1/8" deep at it longest side.
I'd also consider building a box but i don't really have the tools for it :(
#12
06-06-2008
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We're talking MDF here, not a bookshelf. Plus gorilla glue is more fool proof and easier for any layman to use. Especially if you consider your target audience, a guy wanting to spend about 40 bucks on a sub box. We just want an easy reliable seal with some foolproofness.
Run a line of polyurethane glue on the joint, then clamp it. Then drill your holes and run screws every 1.5 inches. After that sets and dries, run an additional bead along the interior seam of the sub box. Then you pretty much have a bullet proof box. The MDF will crack before that joint will. Mechanical vs chemical won't matter.
Another good idea that looks good is to coat the exterior with bedliner spray. Looks tough, blends into the interior and also helps seal any air holes.
Run a line of polyurethane glue on the joint, then clamp it. Then drill your holes and run screws every 1.5 inches. After that sets and dries, run an additional bead along the interior seam of the sub box. Then you pretty much have a bullet proof box. The MDF will crack before that joint will. Mechanical vs chemical won't matter.
Another good idea that looks good is to coat the exterior with bedliner spray. Looks tough, blends into the interior and also helps seal any air holes.
What's the difference? wood glue is cheaper.
Agian, save the money, get a bond that is plenty strong, and use wood glue. What is there to argue? There is no point in using gorilla glue when other, cheaper, less messy options are avalable.
#13
06-21-2008
#14
06-21-2008
To throw my two cents in. I've used both as a wood floor installer, and Gorilla glue is harder to use. You have to get both surfaces damp and then apply to the surface. And, like mentioned above, it expands a whole bunch causing you to have to sand off way more material. I would say the ONLY advantage Gorilla glue has over regular wood glue is set up time and that's it.
With regular wood glue all you gotta do is apply to wood clamp it up, and that's it! The only complaint I have is, you have to wait overnight for it to set up, but if you got the time I would say that is the only way to go.
One other fact I found interesting. I read an article in a Wood Flooring mag, in which they tested all the common wood glues to see which is the strongest. Guess what, Gorilla glue was ranked near the bottom for holding strentgh, and your good old fashioned wood glue was ranked near the top . Only one type of glue out did the old fashioned wood glue, I can't remember which type, but I do remember that it was a PITA to use, but it was the strongest.
Just my.02
One more thing, Colin enjoy the extra boom boom.
With regular wood glue all you gotta do is apply to wood clamp it up, and that's it! The only complaint I have is, you have to wait overnight for it to set up, but if you got the time I would say that is the only way to go.
One other fact I found interesting. I read an article in a Wood Flooring mag, in which they tested all the common wood glues to see which is the strongest. Guess what, Gorilla glue was ranked near the bottom for holding strentgh, and your good old fashioned wood glue was ranked near the top . Only one type of glue out did the old fashioned wood glue, I can't remember which type, but I do remember that it was a PITA to use, but it was the strongest.
Just my.02
One more thing, Colin enjoy the extra boom boom.
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